I don’t know if this is a common problem or not but <b>I seemed to have cracked my factory K member</b>. Does anyone have any recommendations as to where I should buy a replacement?

It really sucks when both tires don’t face the same direction...

 

What kind of prostitute are you??

I've heard of only 1 or 2 companies that have this part. You could either research the suspension board, buy a new tubular k-member, or start hitting the bone yards.

 

I plan on buying a new tubular K member. The only question is <b>where should I buy it</b>? I currently only know of one place that sells them:

http://www.thunderracing.com/index.c...yid=1141#T1676

Any suggestions on a reputable place that sells them?

As for my profession... I am a bussinessman and sell my ideas and creations to almost anyone that is willing to pay me.

 

the PA racing is more of a drag only cross member. i believe spohn said he would be releasing one sometime next year, but that doesnt help you much right now

 

What are coil covers and do I need them if I am going to install PA's tubular K member?

 

ok, i have to ask.

what did you do to crack your factory K member?

 

I decided that it would be better to smack a curb at 40 mph than it would be to get rearended.

 

im gonna hijack your thread. sorry


now totally off subject.


people fear that a tubular K member will crack if it hits a curb at 40....... and they say, oooooh but the stock one will bend.



bullsh!t.



obviously, as shown here, hitting a curb will damage ANY K member.


im also willing to bed that a tube is more likely to bend and not crack then a couple plates of flat steel welded together...




ive been waiting 7 weeks now for someone to post about breaking their stock member, just so i can say that.



ps: got pics of how it broke?

 

dam that sucks. well talkin bout k members, since ur in the market for one jus thought i post up pics of my new tubular k member from PAracing. it looks nice and feels really strong. heres some pics to give u a better idea on what it looks like.



and a arms..

 

<b> BORLAZ06</b>

Is that the PA K member you posted pictures of? Additionally, what all did it take to get it installed, including extras and everything.

I don't have any pictures of the damage but will be sure to get some soon.

What happend was I was making a right hand turn and the guy behind me decided that he wasn't going to slow down. Since I was boxed in by other cars, I had to speed up and make the turn at an extremely high rate of speed. I almost made it but in mid turn the front of the car started sliding and I ended up eating a curb, with the weels turned all the way to the right, at 40 plus miles per hour. The k factory k member is cracked on the bottom right where it bolts on.

So now both front weels face a different direction and I have to turn the stering weel one half turn to the left to make the car go in a straight line.

 

i bet that you bent your spindle arm. heh.


look at the arm sticking out of the spindle that the steering rod connects to. i bet the left side is bent inward.

 

yup thats the PA tubular k member.

i havent installed it yet. im sure someone on here can explain their instllation. i jus got it yesterday and its purdy light.

 

I have accidentally hit curbs drifting around 30 mph and my stock K-member never cracked. Neither did my stock A-frame. Other stuff broke. I have also hit the rear wheels around 35 mph and the 9 bolt rear end and rear suspension pieces didnt break. Didnt phaze the rear at all actually (and left a mean tire mark on the grass). It all depends at what angle you hit stuff and how fast you are going. Since he was at full lock at 40mph, ANY K-member (or any piece of the front suspension for that matter) might have cracked. This includes the stock factory one, and the expensive tubular aftermarket one. Anyway, the debate between stock vs aftermarket K-member never applied to what would break if you crashed. It had more to do with what would happen during race situations.

 

Roadtech also makes K-members for our cars. Might be worth checking them out.

 

I'm totally at a loss as to the point of your response. Are you saying this in order to justify buying a tubular K-Member for street duty? If so - that is absolutely rediculous. If stock K-Members can crack at 40mph and not crack at 30mph then how does that suggest that a tubular K-Member is strong enough for street duty? It doesn't. Fact of the matter is that stock K-Members ARE stronger than most of the tubular ones available. The only one that even looked up to the task was the roadtech version.

Just because a stock k-member can crack doesn't mean that a tubular k-member is as strong. There's absolutely no logic in arguing that.

BTW - What I think is very funny is that PA even says that they won't be held liable for problems because their parts aren't intended for street use ....

Tim

 

read it again..

im just saying that LOOK. even the stock one breaks at times.

it just bugs me how people seem to think the stock one is unbreakable.....





i still think that the tubular is more likely to bend in the case of a impact then the stock one.

if it cracks or not from regular stress is a diffrent issue.

 

if you can get a cheap stock stamped steel k member i would go that route. i know i just threw mine out and it was perfectly good however i'm sure shipping wouldn't have been cheap for you anyhow but they are out there for you.

there are a couple different companies out there that make aftermarket tubular k-members that will work for you without modifications. pa racing and anthony jones are two. in most situations the current k-members that are out aren't intended for auto-x but work more then fine on the street. you can pick up a spring perch version which is a direct bolt in replacement from both companies in either mild steel or chromoly and still use your existing a arms.

this is a bad example to use, pretty much all aftermarket parts now days are labeled as "off road use only" products, even tail light covers.

as pa racing and the other companies will tell you they will replace things up to a certain point if you can prove that what happened was a mishap from them and not through your own stupidity. for everyone whom has actually used one of these setups they work.........

 

Do you have a link for the anthoney jones site? I can find it anywhere. Additionally, why did you throw out your k-member?

 

You might even get one out of a junkyard... from an f-body that's had it's motor yanked out! It'd give you a hell of a lot more room to work, and maybe the guys at the yard would even torch it out for you.

 

My local junkyards suck
I will be luckey to find a stock one.

 

http://www.ajeracing.com

i threw out my kmember because a. it was stock b. it was heavy and i didn't have room for it. wasn't worth trying to sell.

 

Can someone tell me how it's better to hit a curb on your own instead of just getting rear ended? wouldn't getting rear ended make it so the one behind you has to pay for everything? least that's the way it works in NY... I'd much rather have that than have to be fixing my own car out of my OWN pocket..

 

There was also a car directly in front of me and to my right. Considering that we where all going around 50 - 60 mph, I didn't wan' to risk a chain reaction accident. Also, my auto insurance policy was lacking... In Florida, body injury is not required until you are in an accident. So if I had actually gotten into an accident I think I would have gotten heavy fines and an automatic 30 day license suspension.

Also, no one got physically hurt my way; just the car.

 

Any impact hard enough to crack a stock K-member most likely broke or at least bent tons of other stuff.

The whole argument with tubular members doesn’t fly… first, it will be harder to bend a tube the a flat plate, but once you get it bending it will change the shape of the whole unit. I’ve seen tons of stock K-members that were flattened, bent in all sorts of places, notched… that didn’t significantly change suspension geometry (either not at all, or not enough that you couldn’t realign). That will not happen if you bend a tube on a tubular member. Second, usually on impact a tubular K member will just have the welds of one of the mounting tabs or pivot points rip out which is much more catastrophic damage.

 

Hey the_prositute where you located cause i'll have a stock k-member for sell in about a week. Just give me a pm if your interested.

Justin

 

I hit a curb with my GTA last year in an ice storm and bent the driver's A arm, K frame and ph8cked up a wheel.
I ended up getting used A from boneyard and a used K from CamaroHeaven. The boneyard wanted too much for the K. If I would have known at first the K was bent I'd have gotten it all at one time but I ended up doing the job twice.

I wanted to get Spohn stuff, put it on my Formula then swap the old stuff form that onto the GTA but that plan didn't work out - mostly cause Steve didn't have anything ready at the time.
Even getting the PA racing stuff would have been some downtime as they take a couple weeks so I just fixed the GTA.

 

Well judging by the dates, it looks like this happened about a year and a half ago, so hopefuly Mr. Prostitute has already been able to get this fixed.