Has anyone run Koni Double Adjustables before?
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Posts: 802
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From: Chesapeake, Ohio
Car: 02 WS6 White/Ebony
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Stock 3.42
Koni Adjustable Shock/Strut Questions
I can't decide on if I want to get the regular Koni Yellows or go with double adjustables. How bad is it to adjust these things? Do you have to unbolt the strut rod from the mount to adjust the struts? What about the rear shocks?
I'm setting up the car mainly for autocross, so ride comfort is of no concern to me. But I will do some street/drag racing occasionally and would like to be able to set them loose for weight transfer.
Also who has the best price on the yellows and on the upgraded DA's?
I'm setting up the car mainly for autocross, so ride comfort is of no concern to me. But I will do some street/drag racing occasionally and would like to be able to set them loose for weight transfer.
Also who has the best price on the yellows and on the upgraded DA's?
Last edited by drain89; Nov 26, 2003 at 08:36 PM.
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,715
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From: Stouffville, Ontario
Car: 83WS6TA
Engine: ZZ4
Transmission: TH350C
Axle/Gears: 3:23
With the regular yellows you have to unbolt the rears to adjust them - the fronts are adjusted by turning a **** - i doubt you would get satisfactory transfer for drag racing with koni shocks at any setting.
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From: Chesapeake, Ohio
Car: 02 WS6 White/Ebony
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Stock 3.42
Man this whole suspension plan (for lack of a better word) is turning to ****. I planned on going with KYB AGX's and then people told me that they're not good enough to take advantage of my other mods. I heard koni adjustables are the way to go, but if they're a pain to adjust, then that's no gonna do me any good.
I know I can use the 93-02 style rear Double Adjustables. I wonder if they have to be unbolted to adjust.
If I have a set of Yellow struts modified to double adjustable,
will they have to be unbolted to adjust?
I'm building a street car mainly. But I want it to handle. I don't expect it to be capable of winning the ITE class in SCCA, but I'd like to try my hand at some novice level autocross.
I'm building a 383 that's gonna be around 500hp at the flywheel, so damn straight I'll be out late night street racing from time to time. I don't expect it to have the greatest traction, considering it'll mainly run on street tires and at best a set of drag radials.
If I ever take it to the track, it would be just to know what it's capable of and that would be with drag radials unless I ever upgrade to a 9" rear. If I could get a 1.6 or 1.7 on drag radials while still having shocks/springs that will allow me to have great handling....I'll be tickled!
Point is....I don't expect it to be the greatest setup car for any one thing, but be a well balanced car for what I've described.
What I have so far for the rear:
Spohn chromoly LCA's with rod-ends
Ground Control chromoly panhard rod with rod-ends
Spohn LCA relocation brackets
Global West TrackLink torque arm
Ground Control Rear weight-jack kit.
Ground Control Rear adjustable (rod ends) swaybar end link kit
I plan on going with a 21 or 19mm rear swaybar when i find them.
Shocks????
Linear Spring??? Whatever goes well with what shock I decide-probably in the 200-225 range.
For the front I have a 36mm WS6 bar modified with the ground control adjustable endlink kit. I have a 34mm one also that I'm gonna eventually modify and experiment with it also.
I already have a wonderbar (even though I doubt I'll need it since I'm going to rack/pinion steering)
I will be purchasing Spohns Tubular crossmember and a-arms when he makes them available I am going to modify it for Ground Control's front weight jack kit, 4th gen steering rack, and add Del-A-Lum bushings to it.
I also will get his STB when it comes available.
I'm also going to get a bumpsteer kit.
I was going to get Ground Control's caster/camber plates, but have now decided to go with Spohn's Strut Mounts
Struts???????
Spring-same as with the rear (probably in the 700-750 range)
I have Spohns tubular SFC's already, and plan on getting Alson's also. I may put in a 6 pt cage also (but that will be last)
16x8 wheels (will be either GTA's or ZQ8-both are light).
I have 1LE brakes and I'm trying to find a set of aluminum hubs like Baer offered in they're 1LE upgrade package to reduce unsprung weight. I've also removed weight from the car wherever possible. I've got aluminum heads and waterpump, LT4 starter (which is light), No AC, no backseat or smog equipment, lighter front seats. headers and duals instead of manifolds and exhaust all the way back, single plane intake and throttle body instead of heavy TPI unit, Aluminum driveshaft, I plan on using a plastic fuel tank for an LS1 car. So...... I've saved pounds wherever possible, which has to help handling. The SFC's, the Torque Arm, and the cage when I decide to do it are the only things that's added weight to my car.
This is what I've got and what I'm planning to do. Anybody see any problems??
I know I can use the 93-02 style rear Double Adjustables. I wonder if they have to be unbolted to adjust.
If I have a set of Yellow struts modified to double adjustable,
will they have to be unbolted to adjust?
I'm building a street car mainly. But I want it to handle. I don't expect it to be capable of winning the ITE class in SCCA, but I'd like to try my hand at some novice level autocross.
I'm building a 383 that's gonna be around 500hp at the flywheel, so damn straight I'll be out late night street racing from time to time. I don't expect it to have the greatest traction, considering it'll mainly run on street tires and at best a set of drag radials.
If I ever take it to the track, it would be just to know what it's capable of and that would be with drag radials unless I ever upgrade to a 9" rear. If I could get a 1.6 or 1.7 on drag radials while still having shocks/springs that will allow me to have great handling....I'll be tickled!
Point is....I don't expect it to be the greatest setup car for any one thing, but be a well balanced car for what I've described.
What I have so far for the rear:
Spohn chromoly LCA's with rod-ends
Ground Control chromoly panhard rod with rod-ends
Spohn LCA relocation brackets
Global West TrackLink torque arm
Ground Control Rear weight-jack kit.
Ground Control Rear adjustable (rod ends) swaybar end link kit
I plan on going with a 21 or 19mm rear swaybar when i find them.
Shocks????
Linear Spring??? Whatever goes well with what shock I decide-probably in the 200-225 range.
For the front I have a 36mm WS6 bar modified with the ground control adjustable endlink kit. I have a 34mm one also that I'm gonna eventually modify and experiment with it also.
I already have a wonderbar (even though I doubt I'll need it since I'm going to rack/pinion steering)
I will be purchasing Spohns Tubular crossmember and a-arms when he makes them available I am going to modify it for Ground Control's front weight jack kit, 4th gen steering rack, and add Del-A-Lum bushings to it.
I also will get his STB when it comes available.
I'm also going to get a bumpsteer kit.
I was going to get Ground Control's caster/camber plates, but have now decided to go with Spohn's Strut Mounts
Struts???????
Spring-same as with the rear (probably in the 700-750 range)
I have Spohns tubular SFC's already, and plan on getting Alson's also. I may put in a 6 pt cage also (but that will be last)
16x8 wheels (will be either GTA's or ZQ8-both are light).
I have 1LE brakes and I'm trying to find a set of aluminum hubs like Baer offered in they're 1LE upgrade package to reduce unsprung weight. I've also removed weight from the car wherever possible. I've got aluminum heads and waterpump, LT4 starter (which is light), No AC, no backseat or smog equipment, lighter front seats. headers and duals instead of manifolds and exhaust all the way back, single plane intake and throttle body instead of heavy TPI unit, Aluminum driveshaft, I plan on using a plastic fuel tank for an LS1 car. So...... I've saved pounds wherever possible, which has to help handling. The SFC's, the Torque Arm, and the cage when I decide to do it are the only things that's added weight to my car.
This is what I've got and what I'm planning to do. Anybody see any problems??
Last edited by drain89; Nov 26, 2003 at 08:39 PM.
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 2,119
Likes: 0
From: Central NJ
Car: 86 Iroc-Z28
Engine: FB385
Transmission: 700r4
I feel your pain drain89!! I have pretty much the same expectations with my car and i thought i knew what i wanted for a spring and shock/strut setup but i truely have no idea! I am thinking of going with some Bilsteins since the car will be on the street mainly and as far as springs go, i think i will have to toy around with a few sets before i decide. Currently i have some KYBs, and Eibach Drag launch springs and i feel the stance is terrible in the front. There is well over 2" of wheel gap. Looks like crap. If you find anything interesting, let us know.
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Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 6,577
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From: Portland, OR www.cascadecrew.org
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
drain, it may not be as bad as it seems
for the dual puprose, for both traction and handling you are likely going to have the rear shocks set pretty firm, for handling you want the fronts set to match, for traction you want them set soft for weight transfer, but in both cases the rears are going ot be set pretty firm.
my only advice is about your sway bars, i really don't know how long a spherical bearing is going to hold up on a street car. i beleive it was agood2.8 who posted pics of a busted up bearing from a sway bar, they just take so much shock on a street car, i am concerned that it won't last. for a track only car, i would be all over it. but not for a mainly street driven car.
for the dual puprose, for both traction and handling you are likely going to have the rear shocks set pretty firm, for handling you want the fronts set to match, for traction you want them set soft for weight transfer, but in both cases the rears are going ot be set pretty firm.
my only advice is about your sway bars, i really don't know how long a spherical bearing is going to hold up on a street car. i beleive it was agood2.8 who posted pics of a busted up bearing from a sway bar, they just take so much shock on a street car, i am concerned that it won't last. for a track only car, i would be all over it. but not for a mainly street driven car.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (10)
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 802
Likes: 6
From: Chesapeake, Ohio
Car: 02 WS6 White/Ebony
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Stock 3.42
Well, I ended up buying a set of Tokico Illumina (5 way adjustable). The reason I went with them is I found a great deal on them brand new on ebay. Plus I heard the koni's are more of a pain to adjust.
I ordered the ground control front weight jack kit also. I got the weld in one without springs. I had them send it to Spohn so he can add it into my crossmember.
I haven't decided on springs. I ordered some 200# rear springs from Steve also. They should be here shortly.
I haven't decided on the front springs yet. I'm thinking 750-850 range.
As for the swaybar setup. Well....I'll use it til it breaks I guess. Then I'll switch over to stock style.
Should be fun car when I get it done (probably 2 or 3 years from now).
I ordered the ground control front weight jack kit also. I got the weld in one without springs. I had them send it to Spohn so he can add it into my crossmember.
I haven't decided on springs. I ordered some 200# rear springs from Steve also. They should be here shortly.
I haven't decided on the front springs yet. I'm thinking 750-850 range.
As for the swaybar setup. Well....I'll use it til it breaks I guess. Then I'll switch over to stock style.
Should be fun car when I get it done (probably 2 or 3 years from now).
Supreme Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 2,119
Likes: 0
From: Central NJ
Car: 86 Iroc-Z28
Engine: FB385
Transmission: 700r4
What exactly does a front weight jack kit do again? I haven't really heard much about it. Sounds like Spohn is almost done with completing his front k-members huh?!
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 69
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From: Newport Beach, California
Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 1992 TPI 350
Transmission: 1989 T5
Axle/Gears: 1992 10 Bolt Rear w/ 3.42 gearing
whoa!
koni's are NOT hard to adjust.. you don't have to do any unbolting in order to adjust them.....
koni fronts are adjusted by lifting the hood and turning a ****...
koni rears require that you cut a flap in the carpet behind your rear seat so that you can adjust them.. it's NOT a problem
even though it's too late to help you.. hopefully this thread won't start an untrue rumor about konis
you can't beat konis bang for the buck when it comes to autocross and road racing
koni's are NOT hard to adjust.. you don't have to do any unbolting in order to adjust them.....
koni fronts are adjusted by lifting the hood and turning a ****...
koni rears require that you cut a flap in the carpet behind your rear seat so that you can adjust them.. it's NOT a problem
even though it's too late to help you.. hopefully this thread won't start an untrue rumor about konis
you can't beat konis bang for the buck when it comes to autocross and road racing
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,715
Likes: 0
From: Stouffville, Ontario
Car: 83WS6TA
Engine: ZZ4
Transmission: TH350C
Axle/Gears: 3:23
Mine are like the ones in the link below and you have to unbolt them to get at the adjustment stuff. The only reason for cutting the carpet that I know of is so you don't have to lift the whole carpet to get at the bolt that holds the shock onto the car.
Could you post some pics of your set-up so that I can see how you're adjusting the shock on the car.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...ht=koni+adjust
Could you post some pics of your set-up so that I can see how you're adjusting the shock on the car.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...ht=koni+adjust
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (10)
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 802
Likes: 6
From: Chesapeake, Ohio
Car: 02 WS6 White/Ebony
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Stock 3.42
Everyone I talked to said that they had to unbolt it or unload the suspension. PITA for what my goals are. So I went with the Tokico's.
Weight jacks allow you to adjust your ride height and corner weights.
I got the weld in style weight jack kit which allows me to adjust the front ride height underhood with a 1/2 inch ratchet and extension. If I hadn't been getting one of steve's up and coming crossmembers, I would have gone with bolt in style.
Now just for reference, the rear kit I have is weld on also, but they make a bolt on one also.
Steve hasn't started on the crossmembers yet. When I spoke to him a few days ago he said he wouldn't start on the 04 parts until after the holidays. He's moving to a new shop also, so he has alot to do until he can do the crossmembers.
I'm having him design me one that allows me to mount my 4th gen steering rack, and modified perches incorporating my weight jacks. On the a-arms I'm gonna have him use delrin-aluminum for bushings. I haven't decided if I want to go chromoly or not yet. It'll be sweet though!
Weight jacks allow you to adjust your ride height and corner weights.
I got the weld in style weight jack kit which allows me to adjust the front ride height underhood with a 1/2 inch ratchet and extension. If I hadn't been getting one of steve's up and coming crossmembers, I would have gone with bolt in style.
Now just for reference, the rear kit I have is weld on also, but they make a bolt on one also.
Steve hasn't started on the crossmembers yet. When I spoke to him a few days ago he said he wouldn't start on the 04 parts until after the holidays. He's moving to a new shop also, so he has alot to do until he can do the crossmembers.
I'm having him design me one that allows me to mount my 4th gen steering rack, and modified perches incorporating my weight jacks. On the a-arms I'm gonna have him use delrin-aluminum for bushings. I haven't decided if I want to go chromoly or not yet. It'll be sweet though!
Last edited by drain89; Dec 8, 2003 at 09:32 PM.
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