panhard bar installation
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 459
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From: Toledo Ohio
Car: 92 firebird and 95 trans am
Engine: LO3 and LT1
Transmission: 700R4-4l60E
panhard bar installation
when i put on my panhard bar do i have to take any special precations. will the axle move over or will the car just sit in place should i do it in the air or on the ground? anything that could help please post
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Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 6,819
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From: AR
Car: 1991 Camaro RS Vert
Engine: 350 S-TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: GU5/G80/J65
Is it adjustable? If so, you will need to measure/eyeball it into place tell you can go get an alignment.
Spray the bolts with penatraiting oil and let set for a while. Undo the two bolts.
Depending on which one you got to replace current, it may just simply bolt back in place, some you have spacer/shims etc.
Spray the bolts with penatraiting oil and let set for a while. Undo the two bolts.
Depending on which one you got to replace current, it may just simply bolt back in place, some you have spacer/shims etc.
Supreme Member
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,418
Likes: 1
From: Morris, IL
Car: '91 t-top RS; '91 hrdtp Z28
Engine: LO3;383tpi
Transmission: 700r4;very nice 700r4
Axle/Gears: 4.10 zt posi, 3.70 auburn
It's pretty straight foward for the most part. Your bolts may need to be cut off, only if they have "welded" themselves to the metal sleeve in the bushings. If your bar is non-adjustable, then you can swap it in the way that is easiest for you. you may have to raise or lower the rear end as needed though to get it to fit. If it is adjustable, then swap it in and try to adjust it to the stocker's length as best as possible, then have a rear wheel alignment done.
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 13,753
Likes: 560
From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
I just let the rear hang and slide it up. I never really have to move the rear around. It doesn't move that much. I sometimes use a soft hammer to tap it into place. Lube the sides of it though to prevent squeeks. Also, if it is adjustable tighten the nuts down as much as you can. If not it will rattle so bad you will want to sell the car.
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 13,753
Likes: 560
From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
Originally posted by FLYNLOW92rs
So what are you using for a jacking point on the car?
So what are you using for a jacking point on the car?
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Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 47
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From: Branchport NY - Finger Lakes region of New York State. Great cruising territory!
Car: '85 Firebird Sport Coupe
Engine: 305 4 barrel LG4
Transmission: TH-700R4
Here are a couple pictures of my axle replcement showing track bar installation. My track bar is not adjustable so I just put it in place. I used a floor jack under the pumpkin then used jackstands on the rear subframe. Getting the track bar out was harder than getting it in. I had to cut the head of the upper bolt and drive it out. Rusted in bad.
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 47
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From: Branchport NY - Finger Lakes region of New York State. Great cruising territory!
Car: '85 Firebird Sport Coupe
Engine: 305 4 barrel LG4
Transmission: TH-700R4
The last picture was removing the axle, track bar hanging down. This picture is the new axle with track bar attached on the bench.
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 47
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From: Branchport NY - Finger Lakes region of New York State. Great cruising territory!
Car: '85 Firebird Sport Coupe
Engine: 305 4 barrel LG4
Transmission: TH-700R4
Now the axle is hanging in position, track bar attached - visible on the left side. Jack stands in place.
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 47
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From: Branchport NY - Finger Lakes region of New York State. Great cruising territory!
Car: '85 Firebird Sport Coupe
Engine: 305 4 barrel LG4
Transmission: TH-700R4
Now the axle is hanging in position, track bar attached - visible on the left side. Jack stands in place.
Thanks for the pictures
Just to make sure i'm not imagining things
Jack up the car by the pumpkin, then place two jackstands on the subframes (higher or lower then the pumpkin?????)...........Then just proceed with installation??
Just to make sure i'm not imagining things
Jack up the car by the pumpkin, then place two jackstands on the subframes (higher or lower then the pumpkin?????)...........Then just proceed with installation??
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 47
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From: Branchport NY - Finger Lakes region of New York State. Great cruising territory!
Car: '85 Firebird Sport Coupe
Engine: 305 4 barrel LG4
Transmission: TH-700R4
I jacked everything up with the floorjack under the pumpkin. I jacked high enough to max out the jackstand height. Then I lowered the floor jack to bring down the axle. Use the floorjack under the pumpkin to move the axle up and down as desired.
In my situation I disconnected shocks and removed springs before disconnecting the track bar. But according to my Haynes manual springs can remain in place during track bar removal. It might be wise to keep spring tension at a minimum during your procedure by keeping the axle low. Be careful not to stress the brake hose running from body to axle.
Another picture from the side. I had another set of jackstands in front of the rear axle for safety:
In my situation I disconnected shocks and removed springs before disconnecting the track bar. But according to my Haynes manual springs can remain in place during track bar removal. It might be wise to keep spring tension at a minimum during your procedure by keeping the axle low. Be careful not to stress the brake hose running from body to axle.
Another picture from the side. I had another set of jackstands in front of the rear axle for safety:
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 459
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From: Toledo Ohio
Car: 92 firebird and 95 trans am
Engine: LO3 and LT1
Transmission: 700R4-4l60E
its adjustable with poly ends and made by spohn. it did not come with any shims or anything. my bolts look clean as a whistle since my car does nto see snow or rain for that matter. the bolts look like they will come off clean. if the rear wheels arnt aligned right now from my car being lowered is it a big hurry to get the rear wheels aligned . i plan on putting in adjustable control arms and relocation brackets maybe next week. i just have to do things one at a time because i dont always have the money to just buy it all at once.
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 13,753
Likes: 560
From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
Originally posted by RED92BIRD305
its adjustable with poly ends and made by spohn. it did not come with any shims or anything. my bolts look clean as a whistle since my car does nto see snow or rain for that matter. the bolts look like they will come off clean. if the rear wheels arnt aligned right now from my car being lowered is it a big hurry to get the rear wheels aligned . i plan on putting in adjustable control arms and relocation brackets maybe next week. i just have to do things one at a time because i dont always have the money to just buy it all at once.
its adjustable with poly ends and made by spohn. it did not come with any shims or anything. my bolts look clean as a whistle since my car does nto see snow or rain for that matter. the bolts look like they will come off clean. if the rear wheels arnt aligned right now from my car being lowered is it a big hurry to get the rear wheels aligned . i plan on putting in adjustable control arms and relocation brackets maybe next week. i just have to do things one at a time because i dont always have the money to just buy it all at once.
When you jack up the rear by the pumpkin the slack will be taken out before the car actually lifts. After it lifts and you support it you can drop the axle by releasing the jack. To get the car off of the stands you will one again have to jack the pumkin past its slack to get the car to raise. It is self explanatory once you do it.
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