Should I install an 8 point roll bar?
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From: Columbus, GA
Car: 1986 IROC Z28
Engine: 350 carbed
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.43
Should I install an 8 point roll bar?
I'm debating wether or not to install a Competition Engineering 8 point roll bar. I'm getting my subframe connectors from Ryan at UMI in a bulk buy. Only 169.99 right now or 159.99 if we can get a total of 20 or more people before Jan 31st. The link is here:
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=335711
Anyway, I'm not sure wether or not it is going to be required. I haven't got to run the car yet to see what kind of times it's going to run. The car feels fast right now, and I'm planning on adding a 125-150 shot of nitrous before the winter is over. I was going to install it after I get my subframe connectors in. I know what all the roll bar kit is for but it's such a pain in the ***, and it cost around $600 to get the welding done. I can buy my own MIG setup for that much (and yes I have welding experience)!
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=335711
Anyway, I'm not sure wether or not it is going to be required. I haven't got to run the car yet to see what kind of times it's going to run. The car feels fast right now, and I'm planning on adding a 125-150 shot of nitrous before the winter is over. I was going to install it after I get my subframe connectors in. I know what all the roll bar kit is for but it's such a pain in the ***, and it cost around $600 to get the welding done. I can buy my own MIG setup for that much (and yes I have welding experience)!
Last edited by faulball67; Dec 20, 2005 at 09:13 PM.
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Buying a roll bar kit is always cheap. It's having it installed that costs all the money. Normally installation is $100-$150 per point.
Don't expect the kit to be a simple weld in job. All the tubes will be over length and will need to be cut to the proper length required. A simple 6 or 8 point roll bar kit should have all the required notches in the tubes but you may also need to notch some of the tubes depending on the exact angle you place them at. Lastly, all the mounting points need a 6"x6"x1/8" plate welded to the floor for the tubes to weld to (included in kit). This means stripping out much of the interior so that the plates can be heated up with a torch to be formed around the floor contours before they're welded into place
Technically you don't "need" a roll bar until you get below 12 seconds in the 1/4 mile. I believe NHRA and IHRA now put it at 11.49 and quicker. However even a 13 second car can see an improvement with a roll bar. You will be adding about 70-80 pounds to the car also.
Don't expect the kit to be a simple weld in job. All the tubes will be over length and will need to be cut to the proper length required. A simple 6 or 8 point roll bar kit should have all the required notches in the tubes but you may also need to notch some of the tubes depending on the exact angle you place them at. Lastly, all the mounting points need a 6"x6"x1/8" plate welded to the floor for the tubes to weld to (included in kit). This means stripping out much of the interior so that the plates can be heated up with a torch to be formed around the floor contours before they're welded into place
Technically you don't "need" a roll bar until you get below 12 seconds in the 1/4 mile. I believe NHRA and IHRA now put it at 11.49 and quicker. However even a 13 second car can see an improvement with a roll bar. You will be adding about 70-80 pounds to the car also.
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From: Columbus, GA
Car: 1986 IROC Z28
Engine: 350 carbed
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.43
Yeah I know about stripping the interior, and the floor plates and all. That was what I was refering to as a pain in the ***. I'm figuring I'm gonna be running about 500 hp. I was hoping to run low 12's or high 11's.
I guess I'm gonna go through with it. I'm gonna do all the work myself. I want a mig welder for the house anyway. I'm tired of doing everything at the shop. I got everything I need except a notcher. Got everything else for I need for prep at he house. I wish I had my own lift though.
I guess I'm gonna go through with it. I'm gonna do all the work myself. I want a mig welder for the house anyway. I'm tired of doing everything at the shop. I got everything I need except a notcher. Got everything else for I need for prep at he house. I wish I had my own lift though.
Last edited by faulball67; Dec 21, 2005 at 01:22 AM.
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From: Dale City, VA
Car: 91 GTA and 85 IROC
Engine: 355
Transmission: gear jammer
Axle/Gears: 4.11
Make some shake down passes w/o a bar and see what it runs. No sense in adding one if you don't need it. The track and the dyno are two very humbling places.
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From: Columbus, GA
Car: 1986 IROC Z28
Engine: 350 carbed
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.43
My only problem with that is the fact the only track near by is closed until spring for renovation. Their adding lanes or something. My dyno simulator has my engine making 412hp at 6000rpm. My dad thinks I should be getting at least 400. I'm thinking conservative and and going with only pulling 375. But with a 125-150 shot of nitrous, I'm at 500hp or more. I can't seem to find anyone with a dyno around here either. It is an excuse for me to buy a MIG welder too.
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From: earf
Car: 83 firebucket
Engine: less then a geo
Transmission: 5speed crap box
you cant beat safety.
id say go with the cage,it IS an excuse to buy tools[allways fun] and why not have a safer car.
you dont really need a roll bar[unless you roll your car]but youll be happy as hell when your not dead IF you roll your car.
an ounce of prevention and all.
personaly,i think every car should come with a roll cage.
car accidents suck but being crushed inside your car sucks even more.
id say go with the cage,it IS an excuse to buy tools[allways fun] and why not have a safer car.
you dont really need a roll bar[unless you roll your car]but youll be happy as hell when your not dead IF you roll your car.
an ounce of prevention and all.
personaly,i think every car should come with a roll cage.
car accidents suck but being crushed inside your car sucks even more.
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From: Worcester, MA
Car: 86 T/A
Engine: HSR 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77 posi
Originally posted by wellington
personaly,i think every car should come with a roll cage.
car accidents suck but being crushed inside your car sucks even more.
personaly,i think every car should come with a roll cage.
car accidents suck but being crushed inside your car sucks even more.
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From: earf
Car: 83 firebucket
Engine: less then a geo
Transmission: 5speed crap box
still, accidents happen.
a roll cage is just a good idea,especialy with 500hp and if you plan on racing it.
better safe then sorry.
if its a piece of steel bar that will save your *** from death,its probably a good idea to get it.
a roll cage is just a good idea,especialy with 500hp and if you plan on racing it.
better safe then sorry.
if its a piece of steel bar that will save your *** from death,its probably a good idea to get it.
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Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Columbus, GA
Car: 1986 IROC Z28
Engine: 350 carbed
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.43
I guess I have seen flips from guys having simple problems on the track. Probably the best thing. It'll be a good long project that the wife can complain about for ever. I can hear her now.
You paid 600 for a what welder? Why do you need new carpet? What's wrong with the old carpet? What do you mean your seatbelts won't work with those seats?
It'll be a hoot!
You paid 600 for a what welder? Why do you need new carpet? What's wrong with the old carpet? What do you mean your seatbelts won't work with those seats?
It'll be a hoot!
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,576
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From: Harford County, MD
Car: camaro sportcoupe
Engine: 7.0L
Transmission: G-Force GF5R
Axle/Gears: Moser 9"
oh man...glad i'm still un-married and the girl only has a LITTLE bit of say in what i do...
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