replacing strut mounts
#1
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Indianapolis
Car: 1991 Z28 (sold)
replacing strut mounts
does the suspension have to be loaded to replace my strut mounts? im not replacing the struts, just the mounts. when i say loaded i mean do i have to place a jack under that specific control arm or can i just put the front end on jack stands? will the spring really pop out? what else should i look our for when replacing my strut mounts.... there doesnt seem to be any specific procedure so im just gonna go at it and loosen the bolts.
thanks guys
thanks guys
#2
First, If you are not replacing your springs, support the a-arm. This will keep the arm from flying down due to the pressure of the installed spring. The rest of the removal and instal is quite easy. Remove the cover on the upper mount assembly, followed by the nut from the upper end of the strut. Then you can go ahead and pull off the old upper mount, (once the strut piston is clear of the mount - this may require that you lower the a-arm a bit so that the strut moves down). However, before you pull off the old mounts, using a marker you might want to outline the position of the old upper mount to help with the re-instal of the new mount and the alignment of the front end. You can do this to the lower uppermount retaining assembly as well. When done wipe off the marker. Although this isn't a perfect method - it will help you out when the time comes to get things back together.
The upper strut mount bolt is torqued to 46 - 50ft-lbs
and the final torque on the actual upper mount bolts is 18ft-lbs
If you can, take the car in for an alignment when you are done.
If the strut piston doesn't clear the upper mount then you will have to pull the strut out. This will require that you losen the strut-to-knuckle bolts. When I replaced my front end components - I pulled the struts out so this is why I am not 100% sure if the strut piston will clear the upper mounts without strut removal.
-Andrew
The upper strut mount bolt is torqued to 46 - 50ft-lbs
and the final torque on the actual upper mount bolts is 18ft-lbs
If you can, take the car in for an alignment when you are done.
If the strut piston doesn't clear the upper mount then you will have to pull the strut out. This will require that you losen the strut-to-knuckle bolts. When I replaced my front end components - I pulled the struts out so this is why I am not 100% sure if the strut piston will clear the upper mounts without strut removal.
-Andrew
Last edited by kaptinkafeen; 10-10-2006 at 07:54 PM.
#3
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Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Indianapolis
Car: 1991 Z28 (sold)
just a little update.... strut mounts cannot be removed without an impact gun because the center nut spins freely due to the design of the strut. Therefore i wasted $200 on strut mounts and cannot do them. now i have to freaking pay someone to do this and its going to cost me a lot more. Then i have to argue with them as to why the car has to go on a drive on lift due to the shitty lift points of 3rd gens. im so pissed off right now
this is just a warning to someone attempting to do strut mounts and doesnt have access to air tools, it cannot be done...
this is just a warning to someone attempting to do strut mounts and doesnt have access to air tools, it cannot be done...
#4
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 19,282
Likes: 97
From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
I did mine several years ago. I don't recall having problems, and at that time I didn't have air tools.
JamesC
JamesC
#5
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Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Indianapolis
Car: 1991 Z28 (sold)
the center nut spins freely, that cylinder is allowed to spin. when u turn the nut, it spins the upper cylinder (or whatever its called) of the strut. you need an impact to zap it off quickly or else u are just turning a wrench and not getting anywhere.
maybe you forgot over the several years...
maybe you forgot over the several years...
#6
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 709
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From: Middleboro, MA
Car: 1988 Pontiac trans am/gta
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.23's
Well, u could use a vice grip on the shaft if your replacing the strut if not.. Well if u dont mind having a nice mark on the shaft w/e? lol
#7
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 19,282
Likes: 97
From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
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#9
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 661
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From: Bonham TX
Car: 87 & 89 Iroc's
Engine: 5.0 - 5.7
Transmission: 700R's
Axle/Gears: 2.77 - 3.70
I removed mine by using a 10MM to hold the top of the stud and an offset closed end wrench.
There is also a special socket for holding it available from the Snap On man.
There is also a special socket for holding it available from the Snap On man.
#10
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,975
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From: Indianapolis
Car: 1991 Z28 (sold)
did you have to hammer that socket on there? i tried a 10mm and it didnt fit on there, once i find my 11 mm socket i'll try that. i tried a 7/16 socket and it just rounded the stud off
#11
I had no trouble pulling mine off,I just did mine last winter
You're right - the strut shaft will spin so, try what NoItsNotForSale mentioned. Hold the top of the strut piston with one wrench while removing the upper mount retaining nut with another wrench (Haynes manual). If you can't break the nut free, get a johnson bar to add some leverage/torque to it...Get some inexpensive help all you might need is another set of hands to hold one of the wrenches or vic-versa - don't give up yet man! You can perform this task without the help of a garage and pneumatic tools.
-Andrew
You're right - the strut shaft will spin so, try what NoItsNotForSale mentioned. Hold the top of the strut piston with one wrench while removing the upper mount retaining nut with another wrench (Haynes manual). If you can't break the nut free, get a johnson bar to add some leverage/torque to it...Get some inexpensive help all you might need is another set of hands to hold one of the wrenches or vic-versa - don't give up yet man! You can perform this task without the help of a garage and pneumatic tools.
-Andrew
#12
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 19,282
Likes: 97
From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Yep, that rings a bell, a bell, a bell, a bell--what was I saying?
JamesC
JamesC
#13
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 187
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From: Fallon, NV
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: Small Block
Transmission: TH350 w/ 3000 stall convertor
Axle/Gears: 3.73 w/ powertrax locker
Just replaced my struts and springs lately. But, you can definately use a 10 mm socket to hold the shaft and wrench will loosen the nut.
#15
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From: Dodge City, KS/Buffalo, OK
Car: 1983 Camaro Z28/1999 Cavalier
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700R4
You don't have to use a drive on lift to lift a Third Gen.
We don't have drive on lifts where I work, and I have lifted my car several times with the lift. No problems at all. Nothing bent or anything.
We don't have drive on lifts where I work, and I have lifted my car several times with the lift. No problems at all. Nothing bent or anything.
#16
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Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Indianapolis
Car: 1991 Z28 (sold)
a 10mm socket wont fit at all so my struts must be different. i'll just use an 11 mm. thanks for the info, hopefully this should work out.
3rd gens wont fit on 90% of the arm lifts out there because the masts are too close together and the arms are too short. yeah some lifts will work but hardly any. PLUS your car doesnt have the same GFX (if it has any) and i have 3 inch exhaust. so im still sticking with what i said
thanks though guys!
3rd gens wont fit on 90% of the arm lifts out there because the masts are too close together and the arms are too short. yeah some lifts will work but hardly any. PLUS your car doesnt have the same GFX (if it has any) and i have 3 inch exhaust. so im still sticking with what i said
thanks though guys!
#17
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Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Dodge City, KS/Buffalo, OK
Car: 1983 Camaro Z28/1999 Cavalier
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700R4
a 10mm socket wont fit at all so my struts must be different. i'll just use an 11 mm. thanks for the info, hopefully this should work out.
3rd gens wont fit on 90% of the arm lifts out there because the masts are too close together and the arms are too short. yeah some lifts will work but hardly any. PLUS your car doesnt have the same GFX (if it has any) and i have 3 inch exhaust. so im still sticking with what i said
thanks though guys!
3rd gens wont fit on 90% of the arm lifts out there because the masts are too close together and the arms are too short. yeah some lifts will work but hardly any. PLUS your car doesnt have the same GFX (if it has any) and i have 3 inch exhaust. so im still sticking with what i said
thanks though guys!
#18
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Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Ohio
Car: 88' Iroc-Z
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
im pretty sure on the many 3rd gen F-bodies I've replaced struts on I've only had that problem once. So I grabbed the strut with a big pair of channel locks and had my buddy loosen it up. And if replacing the mount for some unknown reason you might want to change your struts while your at it. I think all high end struts have some type of way to loosen the nuts off them without the need for an impact. So maybe it's time to upgrade.
#19
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 19,282
Likes: 97
From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
JamesC
#20
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 678
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From: Connecticut
Car: '89 Firebird Formula
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: T5
i did this on my 99 intrepid in the beginning of the year, except i was replacing the struts.. but anyways all the front suspension has those damn tiny *** little studs to hold, while your trying to turn this massive nut, and they were all rusted to hell.. including the shaft nut... i went out and bought an impact gun, didnt save any money on doing the struts myself, but I aquired a new tool for next time ;0
#22
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,975
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From: Indianapolis
Car: 1991 Z28 (sold)
these mounts are kicking me in the ***....im using a socket but its just rounding off the top of the strut...its such soft metal. i can get them done for $105 a carx. i feel so defeated
#23
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 19,282
Likes: 97
From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Perhaps you could borrow or buy a die-grinder to flatten the section of the strut in question so that you could make a second attempt--get a bud to help with a big *** pair of channel locks or something. Baring that, perhaps you could take the car to a shop that has air tools. Loosening the nuts wouldn't take five minutes.
JamesC
JamesC
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