rwdtech

does the suspension have to be loaded to replace my strut mounts? im not replacing the struts, just the mounts. when i say loaded i mean do i have to place a jack under that specific control arm or can i just put the front end on jack stands? will the spring really pop out? what else should i look our for when replacing my strut mounts.... there doesnt seem to be any specific procedure so im just gonna go at it and loosen the bolts.

thanks guys

kaptinkafeen

iTrader: (2)

First, If you are not replacing your springs, support the a-arm. This will keep the arm from flying down due to the pressure of the installed spring. The rest of the removal and instal is quite easy. Remove the cover on the upper mount assembly, followed by the nut from the upper end of the strut. Then you can go ahead and pull off the old upper mount, (once the strut piston is clear of the mount - this may require that you lower the a-arm a bit so that the strut moves down). However, before you pull off the old mounts, using a marker you might want to outline the position of the old upper mount to help with the re-instal of the new mount and the alignment of the front end. You can do this to the lower uppermount retaining assembly as well. When done wipe off the marker. Although this isn't a perfect method - it will help you out when the time comes to get things back together.
The upper strut mount bolt is torqued to 46 - 50ft-lbs
and the final torque on the actual upper mount bolts is 18ft-lbs
If you can, take the car in for an alignment when you are done.
If the strut piston doesn't clear the upper mount then you will have to pull the strut out. This will require that you losen the strut-to-knuckle bolts. When I replaced my front end components - I pulled the struts out so this is why I am not 100% sure if the strut piston will clear the upper mounts without strut removal.
-Andrew

rwdtech

just a little update.... strut mounts cannot be removed without an impact gun because the center nut spins freely due to the design of the strut. Therefore i wasted $200 on strut mounts and cannot do them. now i have to freaking pay someone to do this and its going to cost me a lot more. Then i have to argue with them as to why the car has to go on a drive on lift due to the shitty lift points of 3rd gens. im so pissed off right now

this is just a warning to someone attempting to do strut mounts and doesnt have access to air tools, it cannot be done...

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

I did mine several years ago. I don't recall having problems, and at that time I didn't have air tools.

JamesC

rwdtech

the center nut spins freely, that cylinder is allowed to spin. when u turn the nut, it spins the upper cylinder (or whatever its called) of the strut. you need an impact to zap it off quickly or else u are just turning a wrench and not getting anywhere.

maybe you forgot over the several years...

fire350tpi

Well, u could use a vice grip on the shaft if your replacing the strut if not.. Well if u dont mind having a nice mark on the shaft w/e? lol

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

A line that my wife uses frequently, and one that could be true.

JamesC

rwdtech

i dont think anything would be able to grip a round shaft and hold that tightly

NoItsNotForSale

iTrader: (1)

I removed mine by using a 10MM to hold the top of the stud and an offset closed end wrench.
There is also a special socket for holding it available from the Snap On man.

rwdtech

did you have to hammer that socket on there? i tried a 10mm and it didnt fit on there, once i find my 11 mm socket i'll try that. i tried a 7/16 socket and it just rounded the stud off

kaptinkafeen

iTrader: (2)

I had no trouble pulling mine off,I just did mine last winter
You're right - the strut shaft will spin so, try what NoItsNotForSale mentioned. Hold the top of the strut piston with one wrench while removing the upper mount retaining nut with another wrench (Haynes manual). If you can't break the nut free, get a johnson bar to add some leverage/torque to it...Get some inexpensive help all you might need is another set of hands to hold one of the wrenches or vic-versa - don't give up yet man! You can perform this task without the help of a garage and pneumatic tools.
-Andrew

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

Yep, that rings a bell, a bell, a bell, a bell--what was I saying?

JamesC

strokermotor91

Just replaced my struts and springs lately. But, you can definately use a 10 mm socket to hold the shaft and wrench will loosen the nut.

chevycamaro91

iTrader: (1)

yep just took my struts off liek 2 hrs ago. just use a 10mm socket and i think it was a 13/16 open end and it should come right off

ling427ttvette

iTrader: (1)

You don't have to use a drive on lift to lift a Third Gen.

We don't have drive on lifts where I work, and I have lifted my car several times with the lift. No problems at all. Nothing bent or anything.

rwdtech

a 10mm socket wont fit at all so my struts must be different. i'll just use an 11 mm. thanks for the info, hopefully this should work out.

3rd gens wont fit on 90% of the arm lifts out there because the masts are too close together and the arms are too short. yeah some lifts will work but hardly any. PLUS your car doesnt have the same GFX (if it has any) and i have 3 inch exhaust. so im still sticking with what i said

thanks though guys!

ling427ttvette

iTrader: (1)

My GFX don't hang as low as yours, and I have a 3" exhaust too. I just have to be cafreful of the lift placement while I drive on it.

87CIZ

iTrader: (8)

im pretty sure on the many 3rd gen F-bodies I've replaced struts on I've only had that problem once. So I grabbed the strut with a big pair of channel locks and had my buddy loosen it up. And if replacing the mount for some unknown reason you might want to change your struts while your at it. I think all high end struts have some type of way to loosen the nuts off them without the need for an impact. So maybe it's time to upgrade.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

The station that services my IROC and the mechanic I occasionally take my car to both have these lifts (in a burg of 2000 souls), both lift my car without difficulties. Must be lucky.

JamesC

dr1

i did this on my 99 intrepid in the beginning of the year, except i was replacing the struts.. but anyways all the front suspension has those damn tiny *** little studs to hold, while your trying to turn this massive nut, and they were all rusted to hell.. including the shaft nut... i went out and bought an impact gun, didnt save any money on doing the struts myself, but I aquired a new tool for next time ;0

rwdtech

but you still need an air compressor, impact sockets, and air hoses...all of which i dont have the money for

rwdtech

these mounts are kicking me in the ***....im using a socket but its just rounding off the top of the strut...its such soft metal. i can get them done for $105 a carx. i feel so defeated

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

Perhaps you could borrow or buy a die-grinder to flatten the section of the strut in question so that you could make a second attempt--get a bud to help with a big *** pair of channel locks or something. Baring that, perhaps you could take the car to a shop that has air tools. Loosening the nuts wouldn't take five minutes.

JamesC

rwdtech

yeah i have a dremel and i thought about that. i'll see if i can find someone to help me