Ok guys here it is. I have gone through and seen just about every posting recently posted concerning spring removal-installation, etc... I am also in the process of doing the procedure myself. Here is what I have learned. I first rented a spring compressor that goes through the center of the springs from Advanced Auto Parts. My issue was that the center shaft was too long and wouldn't allow for me to get high enough on the spring. When I let the control arm down it was just not enough. The spring compressor that I had rented had 4 claws on it to compress two from the top and two from the bottom. So- I worked with it and worked with it until I got the thing stuck in the spring. I had to cut that spring compressor out (had to purchase since I ruined the tool). Now that it was shorter- I thought that it would work better. No luck- it was still not the method as designed- couldn't compress it enough to drop when I lowered the control arm.

So- here I am with a bad tool and still no luck. I went to the Factory Service Repair manual for help. The illustration from GM shows a spring compressor that only has two claws that compress from the top and a plate that goes under the lower control arm (A Arm). I looked all over the web for a compressor such as this one shown in the manual and never found one.

The proper way to remove and install springs on the third gens is not to compress the springs and pull them out. The correct way is to compress the spring to the A-Arm and drop the A-Arm with the Spring attached. Again- compress the Spring to the A-Arm then remove the two A-arm bolts and it comes out easily and keeping everyone safe involved.

If you go to Autozone and look up an application specific spring compressor they will provide you with the correct one. If you simply walk in and request a spring compressor you will not get the one that GM intended to be used.

Once I got on track with the correct tool and method- it only takes about 5-10 minutes each side to compress and remove the springs and uncompress them once they are out. (Obviously once you remove struts, brakes etc....

Don't get upset if it takes 10-15 minutes per side. But if it takes more than that you are doing something wrong.

Good ole Service Repair Manual just paid for itself.

Remember to compress the spring to the A-Arm- Then remove- it is the only safe way.

Good luck.

 

Can you post a picture of the spring compressor you talk about? I want to make sure when I go rent one that it is the correct one. Can you buy a tool that you rent from AutoZone?

 

the spring compressor that you first had, that went inside the springs, works just fine, you just have to put a 4" long pipe nipple and a couple washers on the threaded part to take up all the extra slack. No need to remove the a-arm, but if it works well that way, do it.

 

Here's a pic of the compressor/nipple:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...s-dsc00195.jpg

JamesC

 

JamesC

I have used both tools- and the correct one from GM is not this dual claw compressor. I am working on a photo of the correct method. I am very sure you have had success using this tool. I only published information from the service repair manual. The correct tool is pictured in the link below.

http://toolsandmore.us/index.asp?Pag...ROD&ProdID=331

good luck.

 

I've used the double claw compressor and a safety chain several times; however, I've always been very leery of it--once at a swap meet, an old fellow noticed me eyeing one and asked me, with a devilish grin, if my dental plan was paid up. The peice you show would seem to be considerably safer.

JamesC

 

I was a manager at autozone for a few years...and one thing scares me about those rent-a-tools. And thats quality. Most of them are crap...and you might get 3 or 4 uses out of it before the threads take a dump, or part of the casting self distructs. And maybe its not that the tool its a POS...its whoever had it before you mis-treating it. Not lubing the threads, using it for something it wasnt intended, etc etc. If its not a brand new one, its a crap shoot.

I never use a compressor...and now that I have eibach pros....its even easier. If you chain/strap the spring in properly, its not going anywhere. I have a special chain set up so it really holds the spring to the a-arm when its released. I slowly allow the a-arm to swing down until there is hardly any tension left in the spring. A simple tap with a mallet or something pops it out and it just dangles by the chain. Another key to this method is lube. I spray the crap out of the bottom of the spring and spring pocket with WD-40. It keeps things from binding and the spring slips out easier.

Using this method, you are releasing spring energy from the get go...not increasing it by compressing it further. So even if somehow the spring pops, its not as big a pop as if it were fully compressed and something went wrong with the compressor. And it would take a real fluke of nature or a complete moron mistake on my part for it to get out of the chain to do any damage.

I know a lot of you guys talking about using the compressors and what not dont like the idea of popping it out this way, but its the way Ive been doing it for years without a single hiccup. I guess its the jeep mechanic in me. I hate using spring compressors on my jeep too. So I just let the axle down as far as possible and yank em out. Force of habit maybe..?

J.

 

when I swapped my stock springs for Iroc springs I kinda used your method ghettocruiser except I didnt chain the spring up... I had everything removed and let the a-arm hang.. pryed the spring out with a huge crowbar... bout 4 feet long... I was getting really excited and hoping i didnt get hurt but the spring just rolled out onto the ground lol

 

Yup...The spring cant come out of the top due to the deep pocket. The a-arm has to be at an extreme angle for the spring to slip off. By the time you reach that angle, almost all tension is off the spring. A spring with no tension has no potential for flying out and hurting anyone or anything! Unless you drop it on your foot. I have to, however, still insist that it should be chained. Just to be safe...

A spring compressed in a cheap made in china compressor has more potential for danger in my opinion. Ide rather the spring slip out while chained to the a-arm and bounce around a few inches than be holding a compressed spring in a compressor, then having the compressor let loose. (not that it happens...just hypothetical of course)

The procedure of putting a jack under the a-arm, then unbolting the a-arm and lowering it seems even more crazy than any of the procedures.

Again..just my opinions based on my experiences. Haha...everyone has their own way.

J.

 

thats how ive always done it.

get the front of the car up as high as possible ,and on jackstands
then use a floor jack under the control arm and slowly lower it down.
once its all the way down pull the floor jack out and the spring will fall out.
sometimes u have to push down on the control arm with ur foot or a bar,but the spring has no presure on it at that point and its safe to do that

 

Lol I must be a bit ******* then, I wrap strong rope round the springs when jacked up from the lower A arms and compressed then take the top strut off, and they fall out nicely and go back in just as easy
I don't suggest you use this method though, its only for the brave!

Stu

 

The right tool for the job, the tool that GM used, is the OTC 7045B spring compressor (http://www.automotivetoolsonline.com..._p_12865.html#). I researched this a while back for my suspension work and bought one. I can personally attest to it being absolutely safe if used according to the instructions (which are dead simple).

It's pricey - but you'll never fear a spring job on these cars again

 

Just trying to visualize how that works here..... the plate goes in the hole in the a-am to compress I am guess, but what about the top? do you put a plate in the top of the k-member?

 

Excuse the crudely pasted image. But the discs slide into the spring and the bar fits through the discs. You tighten the handle up the bar and it compresses the discs together - compressing the spring.

 

I'll throw my .02 in just for the hell of it.... Years ago I was in the same spot as you guys had my friends g/f's car on stands and couldn't get the spring in. Trying using a spring compressor and the spring let go while compressing it! Pretty scary! To make a long story short we ended up wedging the front coil half way in with a jack under the a arm. After that we had a 5 foot long pinch bar that we used for leverage to get the spring in the rest of the way. Two weeks later we used the same thing for my firebird. Worked like a charm. No spring compressor needed. Is it easy to do it this way... kinda sorta.. kinda scary... in the end it worked and if I had to do it again I'd opt for a big pinch bar. Both times these were STOCK coil springs we were installing. Just my .02.

Dan

 

seems like alot of people have had someone looking over them when they install or remove springs without the proper tools! all it takes is one little slip and any spring under ANY kind of compression load is an injury waiting to happen. just the weight of a front spring is scary enough. the before mentioned spring compressor made by OTC is what i use and it works great! and it is very safe! the ones that go inside the spring that you can rent from auto parts stores i have seen slip and have the spring let loose. a stock iroc spring is like 550lbs per inch for a front spring and most aftermarkets are 700+ lbs per inch. thats a hell of alot of energy there!

 

This is how i've done it too. I've even used the MOOG 5664 springs (quite strong), with no problems. Once you lower the a-arm, there's no compression left in the spring, so it's not possible for it to be dangerous. I have no idea why everyone fears springs...

 

Can the OTC compressor bottom plates be used below the control arm or could that be a safety problem.