Want performance springs WITHOUT lowering the car!!
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Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 115
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From: Brockport, PA
Car: 89 FireBird
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: AUTO
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Want performance springs WITHOUT lowering the car!!
Does anyone make springs for our cars that are a stiff performance spring that doesnt lower the car or. Does not noticeably lower it. I want the handling but an not a fan of lowered T/A's
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From: Bertram (outside Austin), TX
Car: 87 GTA
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Dana M78 3.27 posi
Re: Want performance springs WITHOUT lowering the car!!

Or if you want even stiffer than stock springs....
It costs more, but like with my Ground Control Weight Jacks.....I could turn the adjusters up to wherever, including stock height and/or get taller springs, to put my car wherever *I* want it & not have it set wherever the manufacturer of the springs puts it at.
And if I change my mind later? I can turn the adjusters & get it even higher or lower. And softer/stiffer springs are much cheaper, should I change my mind & want something different at a later date.
Or just order the spring rates you want, at the height you want, for a set ride height, without the adjusters.
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iTrader: (5)
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Cleveland, Ohio
Car: 89' IROC-Z
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 10-Bolt/2.73
Re: Want performance springs WITHOUT lowering the car!!
You can get the IROC convertible springs which are Moog 5664 front springs (#767 linear) unsure what the rears are but I believe they are 5665's (#107 progressive).
Some numbers to look at
http://jeffd.50megs.com/Moog_Spring_Page.htm
Edit: Stephen has a great idea, only thing with that is I believe you would have to get an alignment done every time you re-adjust. But if you know how to do the backyard alignment then that would probably be your best bang for the buck, since they can be changed fairly easy and the springs are very cheap.
Some numbers to look at
http://jeffd.50megs.com/Moog_Spring_Page.htm
Edit: Stephen has a great idea, only thing with that is I believe you would have to get an alignment done every time you re-adjust. But if you know how to do the backyard alignment then that would probably be your best bang for the buck, since they can be changed fairly easy and the springs are very cheap.
Last edited by I H8 WWD; Apr 8, 2010 at 10:12 AM.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
From: Brockport, PA
Car: 89 FireBird
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: AUTO
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Want performance springs WITHOUT lowering the car!!
You can get the IROC convertible springs which are Moog 5664 front springs (#767 linear) unsure what the rears are but I believe they are 5665's (#107 progressive).
Some numbers to look at
http://jeffd.50megs.com/Moog_Spring_Page.htm
Edit: Stephen has a great idea, only thing with that is I believe you would have to get an alignment done every time you re-adjust. But if you know how to do the backyard alignment then that would probably be your best bang for the buck, since they can be changed fairly easy and the springs are very cheap.
Some numbers to look at
http://jeffd.50megs.com/Moog_Spring_Page.htm
Edit: Stephen has a great idea, only thing with that is I believe you would have to get an alignment done every time you re-adjust. But if you know how to do the backyard alignment then that would probably be your best bang for the buck, since they can be changed fairly easy and the springs are very cheap.
Im even considering using the Eibach 1" drop springs. Does anyone have pics of a T/A (pref. red and silver) with the 1" drop springs on?
And I have access to an alignment rack pretty much when ever i need it
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iTrader: (12)
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 12,212
Likes: 13
From: Bertram (outside Austin), TX
Car: 87 GTA
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Dana M78 3.27 posi
Re: Want performance springs WITHOUT lowering the car!!
Just so you know, Weight Jacks aren't coil overs or air bags.....Just shorter springs the set on a threaded adjuster.
The springs are made by Eibach (Eibach is stamped on them) & are only $55 for a new spring.
The springs are made by Eibach (Eibach is stamped on them) & are only $55 for a new spring.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 115
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From: Brockport, PA
Car: 89 FireBird
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: AUTO
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Want performance springs WITHOUT lowering the car!!
Is this what you are running?
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iTrader: (12)
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 12,212
Likes: 13
From: Bertram (outside Austin), TX
Car: 87 GTA
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Dana M78 3.27 posi
Re: Want performance springs WITHOUT lowering the car!!
Yep, that pic is THE set I got from a fellow TGO member & put on my car..
Not the cheapest way to do things, but the easiest in the long run, if you wanna make changes later. Took us 3 hrs to do all 4 corners & my friend actually did most of the work,
http://www.ground-control-store.com/...tion.php/II=20
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
From: Brockport, PA
Car: 89 FireBird
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: AUTO
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Want performance springs WITHOUT lowering the car!!
cool I think this may be the route I am going to go now.
How is the ride quality and are you happy with them so far?
How is the ride quality and are you happy with them so far?
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iTrader: (12)
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 12,212
Likes: 13
From: Bertram (outside Austin), TX
Car: 87 GTA
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Dana M78 3.27 posi
Re: Want performance springs WITHOUT lowering the car!!
#1....Mine is a daily driver & not on a track. Stiffer than stock, but not insanely higher.
#2....These were recommended by Sam Strano. Anybody who knows wh he is, will not question his recommendations.
I am VERY happy with them. The closest thing on my car to not being "street" parts, are my LCAs & PHB, both which have solid rods ends. So there is no rubber or urethane "cushioning" in them. 45 series tires, solid links, yet I don't complain a single bit. The only "complaint" I have is that under 30 mph over railroad tracks, I feel the "bump", but that is my rod ends, not the weight jacks. I had the rod ends first & that is when the "bump" noise started. And that I went low. IIRC, 24.5" from the ground to my fender lip in the front. Some dips in the road & driveway ramps I have to be aware of. But that is the height that *I* chose. Which I could easily change with just a 1/2" ratchet.
So...Weight Jacks are a good thing. No complaints about them one bit. I've done all the other lowering methods, because I didn't want to spend the $ on the Ground Control stuff. I'm wishing I had now. I'll never do standard lowering again!
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
From: Brockport, PA
Car: 89 FireBird
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: AUTO
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Want performance springs WITHOUT lowering the car!!
I'm running 600lbs front/180lbs rear. Lots of people will tell you to go higher, like 1000lb front, 220lb rear. But 2 things.....
#1....Mine is a daily driver & not on a track. Stiffer than stock, but not insanely higher.
#2....These were recommended by Sam Strano. Anybody who knows wh he is, will not question his recommendations.
I am VERY happy with them. The closest thing on my car to not being "street" parts, are my LCAs & PHB, both which have solid rods ends. So there is no rubber or urethane "cushioning" in them. 45 series tires, solid links, yet I don't complain a single bit. The only "complaint" I have is that under 30 mph over railroad tracks, I feel the "bump", but that is my rod ends, not the weight jacks. I had the rod ends first & that is when the "bump" noise started. And that I went low. IIRC, 24.5" from the ground to my fender lip in the front. Some dips in the road & driveway ramps I have to be aware of. But that is the height that *I* chose. Which I could easily change with just a 1/2" ratchet.
So...Weight Jacks are a good thing. No complaints about them one bit. I've done all the other lowering methods, because I didn't want to spend the $ on the Ground Control stuff. I'm wishing I had now. I'll never do standard lowering again!
#1....Mine is a daily driver & not on a track. Stiffer than stock, but not insanely higher.
#2....These were recommended by Sam Strano. Anybody who knows wh he is, will not question his recommendations.
I am VERY happy with them. The closest thing on my car to not being "street" parts, are my LCAs & PHB, both which have solid rods ends. So there is no rubber or urethane "cushioning" in them. 45 series tires, solid links, yet I don't complain a single bit. The only "complaint" I have is that under 30 mph over railroad tracks, I feel the "bump", but that is my rod ends, not the weight jacks. I had the rod ends first & that is when the "bump" noise started. And that I went low. IIRC, 24.5" from the ground to my fender lip in the front. Some dips in the road & driveway ramps I have to be aware of. But that is the height that *I* chose. Which I could easily change with just a 1/2" ratchet.
So...Weight Jacks are a good thing. No complaints about them one bit. I've done all the other lowering methods, because I didn't want to spend the $ on the Ground Control stuff. I'm wishing I had now. I'll never do standard lowering again!
And mine will be a summer/weekend driver so I will probally go with the same spring rates as you.
And is it hard to get all 4 at the same height on the car?
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