Shocks have little to do with body roll unless you're talking about the way it settles into a turn rather than how far it settles into it. Typically you're talking something broken (broken sway bar endlinks are common), issues with the sway bars, worn out or soft springs, or possibly tall/soft tires.

 

 

As mentioned, the first lace to start is to ensure all your current parts are up to snuff. You likely have the same problems all these 25 year old cars have. Worn bushings, springs, struts, shocks, ball joints, ect. Fixing many of those issues should revive the feel of the car. After that, you can look into aftermarket parts to alter the way the car drives. Sub frame connectors have the biggest impact to these cars. A set of those goes a long way.

 

Take care of replacing all the cracked, sagging or worn out suspension components, get some subframe connectors and decent tires and then you can start researching the pandora's box that lowering a thirdgen (or fourthgen) opens up.

 

 

NO.

Get under the car and look. Take and post pics if you don't know what you're looking at. First post here; but what experience do you have, what is your budget, and Application, Application, Application!

As mentioned, sway bars (and broken links) and soft springs are the likely culprits.
I'm not familiar with RS 2.8's, but I would search some Junk Yards and replace the sway bars with larger ones, then research springs.


Here is a simple diagram concerning body roll with the front suspension. The light green arrow is the direction of the turn (right turn). The Center of Gravity moves opposite to the outside of the turn (beige arrow). The difference between the CG and the RC (Roll Center) is the moment arm (distance B in diagram). I believe one can talk of front and rear roll centers separately, but you have to keep in mind that it is the roll axis (one line connecting fr RC and r RC - not shown) that the moment arm is acting upon. The whole car rotates on the roll axis like a rotating chicken on a spit . The moment arm acts like a lever to force the "roll" - red arrow; or, the chicken rotates on the spit.
Sway bars and springs help to counteract/reduce this "roll." Shocks are more like a timing device (simple explanation) to help return springs to their normal height. They are supremely important, but they don't answer your question.

You can reduce the leverage of the moment arm by lowering the car (lowering CG = minimizing distance B), but you need to use the search function to understand what you are doing. A 1" drop will still affect, but you might get away with it.
Adding some weight down low is easy and effective. This counteracts the CG weight above. Putting some dynomat or similar material on the floor makes good sense for a number of reasons. You have a light V6, hood and lots of heavy glass all belly button height or higher! In other words, you are top heavy - easier to roll over.

1. Make sure your end links are not broken. No cost
2. A larger than stock front sway bar (34 mm) from JY. Minimal cost
3. Stiffer springs (do your research). A little cost
4. Add some weight down low on the floor pans. A little cost
5. Best quality shocks you can afford and you probably need new shock tower mounts as well. This is supreme, but doesn't address your body roll question. $750+ for quality

 

So get under the car and look. Even the base models in stock trim had less body roll than most normal cars, if it rolls way over something is broken/missing/worn out.