Tires slip when turning after suspension work
11-23-2018, 07:11 PM
#1
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Car: 1991 Z28 convertible
Engine: 5.0L
Transmission: Auto 700R
Axle/Gears: Stock
Tires slip when turning after suspension work
Hello all
Recently replaced several worn out parts on the 91 Z28 convertible and now tires slip whenever I make any turn.
mainly noticeable pulling in and out of parking spots and driveway.
Parts replaced:
Center link bar
Sway bar links
Sway bar bushings
Sway bar bump stops
Inner and outer tie rods
Idler arm
I aligned the wheels myself and the car rides straight but am going to take it in for a proper alignment but would like to figure out why the tires are slipping first in case I need to fix something.
Im running 18” Boss rims with 245/40/18 up front. No issues at all until I replaced these parts.
Anyone else experience this or have any idea why this happens.
Thanks in advance
Recently replaced several worn out parts on the 91 Z28 convertible and now tires slip whenever I make any turn.
mainly noticeable pulling in and out of parking spots and driveway.
Parts replaced:
Center link bar
Sway bar links
Sway bar bushings
Sway bar bump stops
Inner and outer tie rods
Idler arm
I aligned the wheels myself and the car rides straight but am going to take it in for a proper alignment but would like to figure out why the tires are slipping first in case I need to fix something.
Im running 18” Boss rims with 245/40/18 up front. No issues at all until I replaced these parts.
Anyone else experience this or have any idea why this happens.
Thanks in advance
Last edited by 91vaneZ; 11-23-2018 at 07:24 PM.
11-26-2018, 08:00 AM
#3
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Re: Tires slip when turning after suspension work
Yes, definitely get it aligned right.
But that won't stop it. It's natural that these cars do that. They've done it since day one.
But that won't stop it. It's natural that these cars do that. They've done it since day one.
11-26-2018, 02:55 PM
#5
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Car: 1989 Firebird
Engine: 5.7 LS1
Transmission: T56
Re: Tires slip when turning after suspension work
I once put the center link on upside down (EDIT: well not upside-down... rotated 180 degrees I guess... that was a long time ago), it worked perfectly in a straight line but when you turned the wheel past a few degrees it would bump steer and drag one of the tires as the ackerman was way off with the center link upside down. (in my defense I was 17 and had no help).
Also it seems that the idler arm many parts houses sell have a different angle/sweep than the pitman arm this causes all kind of steering geometry issues. The idler arm also has play in its mount holes, you need to make sure the center link is level by adjust the idler arm up and down before tightening the bolts.
I can turn lock to lock without any tire drag low speeds with the 16 inch factory wheels and tires.
Also it seems that the idler arm many parts houses sell have a different angle/sweep than the pitman arm this causes all kind of steering geometry issues. The idler arm also has play in its mount holes, you need to make sure the center link is level by adjust the idler arm up and down before tightening the bolts.
I can turn lock to lock without any tire drag low speeds with the 16 inch factory wheels and tires.
Last edited by Aviator857; 11-27-2018 at 12:37 PM.
12-05-2018, 02:17 PM
#6
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Re: Tires slip when turning after suspension work
its your ackramen. these cars are known for this issue
12-07-2018, 02:01 PM
#7
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Car: 1989 Firebird
Engine: 5.7 LS1
Transmission: T56
Re: Tires slip when turning after suspension work
Depends if your wheel center-line is correct and you have quality parts it shouldn't drag a tire in a turn. Mine doesn't, though I have factory wheels and my idler arm angle length matches my pitman arm. The last time I rebuilt the front I was super careful to make sure the center link was level to the car. I will say these cars are super sensitive to parts, and has poor support in the aftermarket so you are highly likely to have a part out of tolerance. If you are lucky enough that your aftermarket steering linkages are correct and everything is aligned correctly you should be good.
The caster and camber adjustments on the upper strut mount can have a huge impact also. There is also a little play in the strut to spindle bolts, this can effect it.
But if everything is dialed in it shouldn't drag the tire under any normal driving condition (drifting at 30mph with the steering wheel at lock... well maybe
)
If you have a more race alignment shop around you they may be able to inspect it better or find a old independent shop with someone that isn't just a hook up the sensors and do what the computer tells you tech, they can help you work out the kinks.
Read through this:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...dler-arms.html
The caster and camber adjustments on the upper strut mount can have a huge impact also. There is also a little play in the strut to spindle bolts, this can effect it.
But if everything is dialed in it shouldn't drag the tire under any normal driving condition (drifting at 30mph with the steering wheel at lock... well maybe
)If you have a more race alignment shop around you they may be able to inspect it better or find a old independent shop with someone that isn't just a hook up the sensors and do what the computer tells you tech, they can help you work out the kinks.
Read through this:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...dler-arms.html
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05-02-2019, 02:23 PM
#8
Senior Member
Re: Tires slip when turning after suspension work
no... yopurs doews too... but because your on a factory width wheel with a tall sidewall, you wont feel it.... garanteed if you put a 18 with a 275 up front it will, its the ackramen angle
the rate which your tires turn in relation to eachother isnt accurate, it has to do with the location of the center link and to pivot points on your spindle... the parts installed have nothing to do with it, its the factory geometry thatds the problem, i made a kit to correct this and im not on 315 30 18, no problems so far, oh and i have a zero scrub radius
the rate which your tires turn in relation to eachother isnt accurate, it has to do with the location of the center link and to pivot points on your spindle... the parts installed have nothing to do with it, its the factory geometry thatds the problem, i made a kit to correct this and im not on 315 30 18, no problems so far, oh and i have a zero scrub radius
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