evilminds

ok i've got the aldl data, what i could get with the car in park anyway(just about out of fuel) :-)

Vehicle: 1991 Camaro TBI 5.0 ECM 1228746
Cam was changed to a SUM-K1106 ( abit big i know or at least i've been told it's too big anyway)

Where do i start to get this thing dialed in? i can't idle any less than around 1000 RPM at the moment,and forget idling in drive without keeping ya foot on the gas abit lol
do i start with the VE table?

I was told that i should start with getting my Injector Constant set.. if so then i need to know what to set it to for the following injectors GM5235279xRPD

and any other things i should start with also in order,,don't want to skip anything :-)

Thanks in advance,

BMmonteSS

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tbi/...free-tune.html

Read through that thread a few times, it answers your question of where to start and how to figure out your BPW. After reading that post up a log, and some more specific questions. Something like "My map readings are all over the place.....how do I smooth out my idle if it's constantly jumping between cells?" We can give you a much better answer to something like that.

Edit: YAAAKKKK!!! That's a big cam to be learning chip burning on, not gonna be pretty. At least it isn't a duntov 30/30......if that wasn't funny it will be once you do some searching for big cams in stock LO3's.

t-rex_camaro

hey how dose that cam feal. hows the idle. i have the sumit cam with .465 lift with the sumit 1.6 rrs but i want to go with a biger one later on. have u driven it. dose it feal good. i havent burnd my chip YET but with my cam i had to advance the timing a lot to keep it idling. well cant what to hear about that cam

evilminds

hehe yeah i figuered it was going to a nightmare, but what am i to do the cam has already been installed and too late to send it back for a swap...so as we say around here she'll go! or she'll blow! :-)

No i havn't gotten to drive it yet because the it won't idle at less than 1000 RPM and if i put it in gear she'll just quit running unless i hold the gas down abit,

hey here's something i caught on ebay lol i didnt know this was possible but the guy said it works great in 350's lol he was running a roller cam with flat tappet lifters in a 350....now my first thought after reading that was.. HUH?

hehe anyone ever tried this ?

Ronny

iTrader: (1)

i think you might be the first to run a big cam BUT as Monte alluded too there is another member here that likes to run large cams in TBI. he states quite successful doing so(?). i forget his name but he was quite entertaining for a week or so. it will be a chalange to get it to idle cleanly. there are quite a lot of posts on idle quality vs cam and what needs to be done in the tune. 234/234 @ .05 ? summit says power 3000-6200 rpms. my cam's power band is 2000-6000. and that is accurrate as my car positively wont pull under 1600 rpms(350cid). (3.05 gear). same could be said for yours cept under 2000 will be a dog. what is your cruising rpm? mine is about 2000 at 72 mph. gears are needed and if you are auto a 2300-2500 stall. i never owned an auto muscle car so that is what i read on stall.

is that what you wanted?

evilminds

hehe no actually that wasn't what i wanted but do to a mislookup on my part, i ordered the wrong part and didn't realise it until after i had it installed and started the motor for the first time and it sounded like it was going to blow apart lol

I got the numbers from compcam as far as what a flat tappet sub for a roller cam would be,,in doing the lookup at summit i didn't write anything down and well looked up the numbers wrong :-( i was actually just looking for a sub for the roller cam since i couldn't afford to replace the stock roller cam setup.

If i can't make this setup work, this cam may find itself listed on ebay lol it's only been in the motor for about 3 weeks at the most so far,,and maybe at the very most 10 miles on it.

BMmonteSS

Unless you want to build the rest of the motor for a 3500 to 7000 rpm power band, that cam is going to be a dog. That cam starts working at about the time the heads, intake, and exhaust stop working. It's a really really bad mismatch for your motor.

It'll take a ton of time and effort on your part to learn to tune it, you'll have a lot of headaches with the stock code. Rbob's EBL will deffinately help out. This cam is NOT for the tuning newbie.

evilminds

grr i was afraid someone was gonna say that lol..what about the guy on ebay who was running a roller cam with flat tappet lifters lol is this even possible? my brain says no, but my brain isn't always wired correctly sometimes tho lol
If it is possible to do that i may be able to get a roller cam without the roller lifters and try the flat tappets on this car

evilminds

ok i'm gonna give this thing a shot with this cam, but i have one question, why does it take so long for winaldl to start filling in the BLM table..i mean i see the boxes moving around and it don't fill in anything until i give the car gas and even then it takes awhile..is the car not entering open loop or something..or is there something i need to disable in the bin before i can read abit faster..because this car is too hard on gas for me let it run for too long..i had to short the fan switch to ground to keep the fan on wide open to keep the engine below the 220 degree mark..which reminds me

why in the heck did GM design a fan sytem that doesn't kick on until your engine reachs 225 degrees..thats just plain stupid IMO...i've had this thing over heat on me just sitting at a red light for a few mins and that was before the cam swap lol.

BMmonteSS

Do NOT mix roller and flat tappet cams or lifters, just isn't gonna work and I'm not real sure what you think you're going to gain from it. Roller cams are nice but not necesary.

You really don't want to hear this, but you probably knocked a few lobes off the cam already. That cam has .488 lift, and your stock heads are only good for between .460 and .480 lift. Any time you get above .450 lift it's a good idea to check your seal to retainer clearances. Give it a few miles then pull the valve covers and see if you have any loose rockers. You may get lucky, but I wouldn't hold my breath. If you did round some lobes off you probably sent enough trash through the motor to hurt the bearings.

In winaldl you need to set the table to "wide avg" mode, it defaults to "narrow avg" which filters out all the values that are way out in left field. The problem is your whole tune is out in left field, heck it's in the bullpen. So you need to switch to wide avg. to see all the data. The problem you are going to run into is that below 2000 rpm the stock O2 sensor is going to be useless and your map readings are going to eradic. So you are pretty much going to be tuning in open loop by ear and feel in these area's untill you get a WB.

Ronny

iTrader: (1)

my therm is 180 deg. engine runs 185-195 sometimes 200 when stuck in traffic. this is with newer radiator and water wetter. old radiator ran 15 deg higher. adding a 160 thern did not help me. if you are 225 strong possibility the radiator needs cleaning by radiator shop. is the air foil present on vehicle and in good shape?

evilminds

hehe well actually i knew that roller and flat tappet were not mixable , so on to the others things when i got this car it needed alot of parts,, alternator, radiator, water pump,distributer, rotor button , plugs, wires,and rebuild, also flywheel and starter,,all this stuff was replaced with new stuff, still runs hot tho,,from what i've been able to come up with the engine was designed to run in the 200 - 230 range,,which is totally mind blowing too me....as for knocking a few lobes off the cam, i don't see any evidence of that happening...at least not yet anyway :-) when i first got this cam i did a small check before i actually installed it perm..with the roller cam in place and the number one roller lifters in place and tightened to zero lash. i rotated the cam to open the number one intake valve and measured how far the lifter cam out of the bore from the top of the lifter down....i then put the summit cam in the motor and flat tappet lifters and made the same check..both came up to the same amount of distance..i have noticed that the O2 sensor seems to be right around the .4 to .6 volt range with my DVM hooked to it..I would expect it to stay around the .6 to .9 range...gonna check to see if theres any voltage on the O2 while the motor is cold to see if the sensor is possibly bad.

If nothing else like the previous post said this should be very interesting to see what this motor does LOL

from what i can gather this cam should be timed at 5 degrees BTDC not the 8 i had it at.

I think i'll move this thread on over to here https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tbi/...ml#post2997703 seems to be the place it should be?? i also posted some data for looks and laughs hehe