hey, here's my settup in motor mods for my 1991 Camaro RS 305 TBI car.

14x3 K&N open air filter
holley 670 throttle body #510-502-5
holley pro-jection manifold #510-300-66
Port and polish on heads
Dynomax or Edelbrock headers (i already have edelbrocks, thinking of trading a buddy for his dynomax. are they the same?)
high flow cat
flowmaster force II catback
MSD Blaster coil
MSD Wires
B&M Tork master converter 30 spline (will it work?) 2300-2500 rpm stall.

estimated HP/TQ?

thanks a lot


[This message has been edited by STL1994 (edited February 27, 2001).]

 

I wouldn't add an LT1 cam. The LT1 cam is meant to rev at 6000rpm's. Our cars shift @ 5000rpm's. So u wouldn't be getting all you could get from an LT1 cam then u could get from a cam that was custom made or one that is meant to only rev to 5000 (or 5500rpms to be safe). Know what I mean? As for ur exaust, is it all 3"? Like is the collector on the y-pipe 3" and is the inlet on the cat 3" and is the outlet on the cat equal to the inlet for ur cat-back? have to make sure all that fits right up too. And I am just curious why you are getting a MSD distributor? The stock distributor will create enough voltage and current for where our engine rev too. The MSD dist. is for engines that rev to 7000-9000rpm's. Just saying I don't think you want to waste ur money like that when the stock one will perform the same as the MSD one. Same goes for the MSD 6AL. Suppose to help create voltage at high rpm's but our cars to shift at high rpm's so what is the point of spending the money for that? Know what I mean? The coil and the wires are fine. The coil is a little extreme, the MSD Blaster Coil would do the exact same as that MSD Blater 3 coil. And the blaster coil is a stock replacement so it fits in the orginal bracket where ur old one was. Everything else looks good though.

------------------
Eric Natzke
91 Firebird 305 TBI
"It Ain't Stock"
http://members.aol.com/j007golden/91firebird.html
For info on certain parts or mods go to the site below
http://members.aol.com/j007golden/modeval.html

[This message has been edited by 91Bird305 (edited February 27, 2001).]

 

um all you have to do to make your car rev higher is change the TV cable. That should be no reason for not wanting to change your RPM scale. I heard those Holley projection intakes are a biatch to get to work. good luck the EGR and the throttel cable (linkage?) were the biggest problems if I rememeber right. You should go with TPI type headers, the outlet and the Y pipe will be bigger. For example: edelbrock TPI headers have dual 2.5" y pipe merging into a 3" collector while the edelbrock TBI headers have a 2.25" Y pipe merging into a stock 2.25"(or 2.5", sorry I forget exactly) collector.

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-Tas
'89 Formula WS-6
[soon to be Torch Red with black hood and headlights ]

305, TBI, auto, 14x3 chrome flat based open element with K&N, Milodon 160* thermo, functional Formula hood, cross-flow Flowmaster, '99z28 rear pipes and tips....

Super GRK_Taz World
EFI & Intake Options
AOL IM: superGRtaz | ICQ 82881207

[This message has been edited by Tas (edited February 27, 2001).]

 

i understand u fully. i geuss 7000+ rpms isnt my car? lol

i think ill not get the msd 6a, and distributor. maybe a new cap for the stock distributor, and a regular blaster coil instead.

exhaust is fine since it all matches up. (pretty sure, if it doesnt, i can fix it, ive done it MANY times before. i have so many leftover adaptors to fit everything... )

forget the LT1 cam, if anything ill just get a custom one. ill also be getting a B&M tork master torque converter 2300-2500 rpm stall speed. i geuss ill go edit my list in the original topic so it isnt so confusing now

so... any HP/TQ estimates? thanks!

 

will edelbrock tpi headers work on my car? give me a part # please!

should i get rear gears? what gears should i get and what kind of rear end should my car have?

thanks!

 

You could try an LT4 cam? Nice roller design and pretty cheap new at about $150 from SDPC2000.com. Great numbers with 1.6 ratio rockers and still quite mellow. IMO

 

all ya gotta do is shift the car yerself when you are racing, then you don't hafta worry about the tv cable.
it seems like an lt1 cam would be a great match for this setup. that would put your peak hp in the 5400-5800 range prolly with a nice long power band.
i would suggest keeping the edelbrock pipes, better quality control means they will fit on the first try.

lata
tim

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91 Camaro RS-LO3,Auto.
14.215@94.30 w/ 1.917 60'

Check Out The East Coast F-Body Nationals Home Page
www.geocities.com/njspeeder

My MAFB.ORG Home Page
www.mycar.net/mafb/registry/detail.cfm?id=299

DSI Racing Home Page

www.geocities.com/foff667

 

maybe ill get an LT4 cam later on, but for now, i think ill get some 1.6 rollers.

what size stud do i have on a stock head? gears in the rear?
what size?
will my converter work?

still waitin for estimated HP/TQ

thanks for your help!

 

Yeah but why have him shift at them higher rpm points when he will not gain anything by it but a engine that is being pushed beyond its limits? Just doesn't make sense to me I guess.

The 305 TPI Edelbrock TES Headers are
#EDL-6872

As for an hp estimate. I will give it my best shot.

14x3 K&N open air filter
5-10hp

holley 670 throttle body
holley pro-jection manifold
20hp?

Port and polish on heads
25hp?

Edelbrock headers and exaust w/ hi-flow cat
25-30hp?

MSD Blaster coil
MSD Wires
Plugs
MSD Dist cap/rotor
No Hp, better throttle response and better gas mileage and better idle too.

B&M Tork master
No Hp (you can guess what it does, hehe)
BTW: I heard bad stuff about B&M Torque converters, espically their holeshot brand. Maybe you should look into a TCI TQ Converter.

BTW: these are not to the rear wheel hp guesses I am making. This is strictly at the flywheel.

Oh and for the gears. Try getting 3:73's or 3:42's GM Motive gears. A place on the net sells them. http://www.gearsareus.com and remember to get a posi unit too. Go to my second site for all that information in my sig. I think my second site could help u out a lot.

------------------
Eric Natzke
91 Firebird 305 TBI
"It Ain't Stock"
http://members.aol.com/j007golden/91firebird.html
For info on certain parts or mods go to the site below
http://members.aol.com/j007golden/modeval.html

[This message has been edited by 91Bird305 (edited February 27, 2001).]

 

There is nothing wrong with raising the hp peak, there are just certain things you have to do. Changing the springs is mandatory, screw-in studs are also a good idea. I think the lt4 cam would be WAY overkill on a moderate 305 like yours, the lt1 is a better way to go.
As for the transmission shift points, they are controlled by the governing weights in the tailshaft, not by the TV cable. I have seen a calibration kit for sale in summit that allows you to change your shift points.

 

Id also say go with the LT1 cam. Definately do the cam when u have the engine apart like that, the car will run sweet with that cam. just shift manually at like 5500 or 5600 and u should be fine. I would also say a 3.73 gear would be a good idea to keep the car in its rev range.

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91 RS W/carbed 350, Vortec heads, performer rpm, Comp cams Xtreme energy 224/230 duration and .477/.480 lift. BFG Drag radials. 3.42 posi,Corvette servoed 700r4, 3000 stallconverter. Edelbrock TES, 3inch cat, flowmaster with single 2.5 inch exit.
Best time yet to come
12's?? :crossthumbs:

This is a Pic of my car in race trim www.tbns.net/billyjay/camero.jpg

 

He will shift higher because the cam breaths at a higher RPM. HP is what he has to gain. An engine is an air pump. The more RPM, the more air, the more power. Oversimplified, yes, but that is the gist of it. Its well within the engines limits as Jester, Pablo, and so many others have proven.

 

I just don't think its a good idea to strain an engine like the LO3 at 6000rpms.

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Eric Natzke
91 Firebird 305 TBI
"It Ain't Stock"
http://members.aol.com/j007golden/91firebird.html
For info on certain parts or mods go to the site below
http://members.aol.com/j007golden/modeval.html

[This message has been edited by 91Bird305 (edited February 28, 2001).]

 

LT4 cam is mellower than the LT1 cam, I thought. I don't mean LT4 "HOT" cam, I mean LT4 OEM cam...

 

how am i supposed to manually shift my car with a automatic trans? im confused

 

STL1 don't listen to them. If you have an automatic just leave it be. It shifts at 5000rpms for a reason. Just don't mess with that stuff. If it ain't broke don't fix it.

------------------
Eric Natzke
91 Firebird 305 TBI
"It Ain't Stock"
http://members.aol.com/j007golden/91firebird.html
For info on certain parts or mods go to the site below
http://members.aol.com/j007golden/modeval.html

 

ill trust you because i dont want to go digging into the tranny and playing around with it and throwin money away. (besides with a converter) all i want is a nice built 305, without spending the kind of money i can get a 2000 SS for!

one more question: will the edelbrock TPI headers bolt right up to my motor andemmissions crap?

thanks!

 

From what I hear: Yes. I don't have any emmisions on my car so I don't know but I will know for sure in about one more week if u can wait that long. I have a friend that is going to have the Edelbrock TES #6872 on his 305 TBI and he has to hook the emmisions up. The part guy he talked to said they would work. But I will tell u for sure when he gets them on in a week.

------------------
Eric Natzke
91 Firebird 305 TBI
"It Ain't Stock"
http://members.aol.com/j007golden/91firebird.html
For info on certain parts or mods go to the site below
http://members.aol.com/j007golden/modeval.html

 

the only thing that the TPI headers don't have that the TBI headers do is the heat stove on the drivers side header that channels heat up to the intake snorkle.

 

Yes 91bird, it is set like that for a reason, the reason being the stock engine's lack of power above 5000.
tl1, if you want to make power, you're going to have to change stock parts and fiddle with settings. There is no "easy way" to make a car fast, if it was easy we wouldn't have a kajillion messages here a day.

 

yeah, i geuss i will have to play with settings like that to make my car better

 

Don't mess with the shift points and that is not the only differnce between the TBI TES's and the TPI TES's. The TBI's have a 2.5" collector at the y-pipe and they have that ugly *** Heat Stove on there to that u don't even need anymore since u have an open element now. The TPI TES's have them AIR tubes but they can be capped off but most importantly the TPI TES's have a 3" collector instead of a 2.5" at the end of the y-pipe. Giving u more flow and a better reason to get urself a 3" inlet hi-flow cat. Don't mess with ur shifting settings, if ur going to mess with any settings mess with the timing (bump it up to 6 degrees) or get a AFPR and boost your fuel pressure up a little bit (but not to much)

------------------
Eric Natzke
91 Firebird 305 TBI
"It Ain't Stock"
http://members.aol.com/j007golden/91firebird.html
For info on certain parts or mods go to the site below
http://members.aol.com/j007golden/modeval.html

 

ok here is my take on what everyone has been saying...i read everything pretty quick, but i think i got the general idea...

about the cam, i really odnt know, but i think that the lt4 cam will be too much.

the ignition stuff...go with the 6Al but not the distributor. the 6AL will smooth things out a little at higher RPMs, and burn more fuel.

about the headers...they will bolt right up. i had them, but i ditched them because i thought they were pieces of crap..they are way too restrictive as far as i am concerned.

the torque converter stuff...i have a TCI converter and i love it. the car launches awesome and mine is like a 2400 stall.

about the shifting...my advice is to shift it yourself. you will have to play with it a little to get used to how fast it shifts ane all that crap though. like on my car, in "D" it shifts at like 5 grand i think. but, when i do it myself, i can have it shift at like 5500 or whatever i want. but you have to be careful..sometimes it isnt an instant thing..when i see my tach hit 5 grand, i throw it into 2nd, and by the time that i do it and the tranny actually shifts, it goes into 2nd at like 5500, and i hear that right rear breaking loose! its great...and it wont hurt anything unless you spin her too high.

and GET GEARS!!!!!!!!!!!!

you will be about a million times happier with a some 3.42s or (even better) 3.73s, and to have both tires spinning!! if you are gonna have the power, you gotta be able to put it to the pavement or it's useless...that is more important than almost anything.

-brian


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1991 Camaro RS - Ultra Blue Metallic, T-Tops
----------------------------------------------
GM 350 HO Crate Engine - Vortec Heads, Edelbrock Intake, Holley 670 CFM TB, Edelbrock Water Pump, March Pulleys, MSD 6AL, Blaster Coil, 8.5mm Super Conductors, Cap and Rotor, Rapidfires, Hypertech Fan Switch & Chip, SLP 1 3/4" Stainless Headers, 3" Cat Back, Flowmaster 40 Series
700R4 - 2,400 Stall Converter, Vette Servo, Shift Kit, B&M Super Cooler
GM 10 Bolt -coming soon Auburn Pro Series Differential, Richmond 3.73s
Brian's 1991 RS Central NY F-Body Association
Join the Third Generation F-Body TBI Web Ring
z28boy@twcny.rr.com IM name: Z28 Boy

 

Come on dude, like SLP's are that much better the TES's.....TES's Restrictive? I highly doubt it by that much.

------------------
Eric Natzke
91 Firebird 305 TBI
"It Ain't Stock"
http://members.aol.com/j007golden/91firebird.html
For info on certain parts or mods go to the site below
http://members.aol.com/j007golden/modeval.html

 

i wouldnt think the TES are too restrictive. i think the slp's look better, but i like the price to performance numbers on the TES's

i might get the richmond 3.73 gear kit from jegs. i posted another topic in the aftermarket parts section about my drivetrain in my 89 irocZ. if i like the way it turns out, ill get the same settup for my TBI RS.

i think it was a TCI break-a-way converter, richmond 373 gear kit, and the auburn differential. thanks for the help!

 

if you don't need air tubes don't cap them off!!! Just buy cheaper non 50 state legal headers in the first place. The non-legal hookers were $140 (thats what someone told me yesterday)

 

I just ordered slp headers w/o air and 45 dollar install kit for 430 bucks all together. (through the GP). That's a better deal than the edelbrocks considering that you have to coat them.

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Pat Hirsz
www.iit.edu/~hirspat/MyPage2.htm

88 305TBI
Mods:Hooker Aerochamber 3" exhaust, gutted kitty, March pullies, no smog, 180 thermo,
14x4 K&N, 3.42 gears,
Eibach springs with KYB's all around,
Harwood cowl hood, Z-28 wing, fresh paint(black)
120,000 miles, 5spd, T-tops
Run a best of 16.7 @85mph before gears

92 RS, 305TBI, auto, 3.08 gears, 180 thermo, glasspack (no muffler)

 

ive seen those headers for $500 without the install, so i thought they were a bad deal. i geuss its a lot better price through a GP.