Joseph Andres

iTrader: (6)

I'm going to replace both mounts while the engine is out (new ZZ4 and AFR's going in). I tried doing them before when I was replacing the oil pan gasket. The bolts in the frame are really hard to get at. The lower control arm gets in the way. Any ideas or shortcuts? Thanks.

scauffiel

It's a giant can of suck. Basically suck it up and get them out using a variety of sockets, swivels, WD-40, riggers tape, a high powered rifle, a two dollar bill, a measuring tape and a barbie doll arm; but when you replace them install the bolts from the bottom and put the nuts up on top. At least if you have to do it again later it won't be as bad. Or if you're feeling really squirrely, remove the entire arm assembly to get to the bolts a little easier - but that ain't no picnic either.

Make sure to do it in 100 degree heat, with 110 percent humidity, in a garage with no air flow. Get the girlfriend involved by having her evaporate your sweat with a heat gun. Use scratched up goggles that fog up if you even glance at your work space. If possible get the whole show on video tape for future giggles. Good luck and most importantly have fun.

Steve

MikeS

Scauffiel pretty much summed it up .

You might want to add some string, half a toothpick, a magnet on a stiff wire, wobble extension, and some five minute epoxy to the sockets, swivels, WD-40, riggers tape, high powered rifle, two dollar bill, measuring tape and barbie doll arm. I tied the half a toothpick on the end of a string, dropped that through the bolt hole, fished the toothpick on a string out of the crossmember by the A-arm, and used that to pull a nut with epoxy on the top of it into place. The epoxy was enough to hold the nuts there while I got the bolts started. After threading the bolts in a little bit, there's no more worry about dropping the nuts down the crossmember and you can forget about all the other stuff and just work with the aformentioned sockets, swivels, extensions, and barbie doll arm.

Ok I was drawing a diagram, but couldn't figure out exactly what the two dollar bill or barbie doll were for...

bhaas

Just drop one end of the control arm and be done with it. Use a jack.

Brad...

scauffiel

Just in case, my friend...


...just in case...


S.

Little GTA

LOL

89Irocz23

hey little GTA whats up? Im from Panama City. Where abouts in destin are you. A friend of mine on this board lives in niceville. I'm always up there maybe I can get up with you sometime.

BOTTLEDZ28

iTrader: (9)

i replaced mine while the engine was out so it wasnt as bad as trying to do it with the motor in. First i had ot grind off the factory rivet of some sort on the top of the mounting cup. there is one on each mount. then you can get the lower bolt off each mount.dont botther taking all the bolts off just get the lower one off and bend the bracket up. i wont get into how hard this is as previous posters have done so already. if you have no patience at all then *** be with with you because you will need all you can get. i put the nut back on from the bottom so that if the nut came loose, i would loose the bolt. try getting a magnet for this job. it helps postion the nut so a second person can start the threads on it from above. start early in the day becuz you wil need all the day light hours in the day. make sure you do one at a time and put the new one in the same postion the old one was in. postion the new mount in the right postion away from your work site so you no how it goes. put in energy suspension mounts that will last longer then your life so you dont have todo it again.

V8Astro Captain

iTrader: (1)

Yup...that's about right. The diagram needs an "arm routing" showing AT LEAST 14 different bends to get around the manifold and the diverter valve and the master cylinder...

Good thing on the M-body GM decided to put convenient holes in just the right place so you can hold the nut on the bottom with a 12" extension and a socket THRU the crossmember.

Riley's35089rs+

i read another post where they welded the nuts in place to the x-member. made it easier for future work.

Zepher

iTrader: (1)

I'll be doing mine this week as well. Took a stab at it last week and gave up.

bhaas

Here's the link to a post I made earlier about this subject and what I did.

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=101175

Brad...

Little GTA

89Irocz23,

Sent you an email.

RICH92RS350

Use this as an opportunity to replace your A-Arm bushings and remove them.It's nice and easy with the A-Arms out of the picture.
-Rich-

NuclearPwrIroc

Well i just completed motor mounts. I took all of the advice given on the board here. Then looked at ALLDATA...they give the same line drawings and instructions as any other manual..... so im sitting there under the car going "now if i can see the face of the bolt totally i can get a tool there.... so that is just what i did. I took a 24 inch long extention with two really good quality u-joints (read: snapon) and i just unbolted them. with a open ended wrench on the motor side of the mount. Then instead of using contact adhesive or anything.....i put some moly grease on the bolts, and reinstalled them into the bottom of the crossmember....by the way i didnt use stock bolts i used the same sized, galvanized grade 10.9 with lock, and flat washer already on the cap. Turned out bitchin, motor still leans a LITTLE to the left. but doesnt torque over as much (meaning it doesnt contact my STB.
Over the years ive learned, sometimes you just have to simplify things....if you have to pull control arms to get to the bolts, why not just use the RIGHT tools, with the right instructions, then go grab a beer with your chica afterwards....with all the spare time...
sam adams is real good after getting greasy.