We were talkin about synthetic once, and Vader said that it would be a good idea to crack open my valve covers and take a peak inside. Well, I put on my chrome valve covers and had a look. Wasn't near as nasty as I was thinking it was gonna be. Anyway... what is it I should have seen? What are bad signs? I'm really wanting to switch over to Mobile 1 Trisynthetic(what's the deal with "Supersyn" I think it was... saw it at O'Rielleys), but I wanna make absolutely sure I know what I'm getting into... Right now I'm running 5W-30 Superflo dino oil and Fram filter In my garage I got a purolator PureONE waiting, but I'm still trying to sort this oil thing out... I saw that Danno said this in another post:



So do I really have nothing to fear? If I get the leaking problems, will they go away in a month or so? Only leaks I have are front and rear main seals(pretty sure). Thanks guys.

 

Was there a lot of gunk or hardened oil deposits in there. I know when I changed the cam in my 305, I guess the people before me never changed the oil, cause I literally dug out 2-3 handfuls of old oil. With synthetic you run the risk of it loosening this stuff up and flushing it into the motor.

 

I had a little bit of deposits on the driver side, maybe as much as a stack of 5 quarters or so in the palm of your hand, and the passenger side was virtually spotless. I scraped out the deposits and sucked it up with a wet/dry vacuum. Maybe he used penzoil or something??? From what I could see down into the lifters it didn't look bad... forgot to look down at the lifters on the passenger side though...

 

BUMP

 

what about running some motor flush through the crankcase before changing to synthetics? Wouldnt that remove most the buildup thats in the engine?

 

Ehhh, I'm kinda leery of a full engine flush... there was someone on here talking about how his friend had a 5.0 stang and did an engine flush, f*ked his car up. I'm afraid of that happening to mine cause there isn't anything really wrong with it as is, but I think he did it himself. I suppose if I took it somewhere that does it professionally it'd come out good, but those are alot of money aren't they?

 

I've heard that 'synthetic' oil can now be hydrocracked dino juice . That is all Castrol syntec is. The new tri-synthetic mobile 1 is partially dino juice and performs worse than the old regular mobile 1. Amsoil and Redline are a couple of the real synthetics. If you want to flush the engine, run a quart of dexron tranny fluid(with regular oil) for a couple days before you change the oil.

I doubt synthetic will fix your existing leaks.

 

^^ Holy Crap, so Mobil 1 20W-50 is the worst out of all those, I'm about to put that in.

 

dont panic mark.....i wasnt going to start another debate but can someone explain this then?


http://www.bigskyoil.com/amsoil_vs_m...vs_mobil1.html



nothing wrong with mobil1 .........for the pita to get a hold of amsoil ill keep running mobil1

 

I don't know that much about synthetics but what is "dino juice"?
and what about Royal purple? i thought that stuff was supposed to be pretty good as synthetics go

 

dino juice = the stuff regular oil is made from.

 

I guess it's a good thing we don't have ball bearings in our engines. If we did, there would apparently be a lot more wear with 15W50 Mobil 1 than with 20W50 Castrol Syntec (Mobil does not offer a 20W50 synthetic).

I'll stand by my earlier position - Mobil 1 is superior to mineral oils for engine lubrication. I also go by real-world results, and a tear down at 110,000+ miles on a 350 running synthetic for life has made a believer out of me. When the engine measurements reveal less wear than even the factory production tolerances, that tells me there was very little measureable wear over the 110K miles. Sorry, but I didn't check the ball bearings...

Amsoil is a very good product, indeed. In some ways superior to Mobil 1, in some ways equal, and lacks in some other ways. Overall it is easily as good as Mobil 1 for use in engines.

However, the ball wear test is only one test. Viscosity stability, ash content, acidity, and other factors are NOT measured by the ball wear test but very importamt in a real-world running engine. Furthermore, and possibly more importantly, ball wear tests are more commonly used to test the extreme pressure lubrication of EP greases and XP gear oils, not engine oils, hydraulic oil, spindle oil, cutting fluids, etc. Don't fall for meaningless or improperly applied data, or you'll be buying that "DuraLube" crap shortly. Look at bearing shells under a scanning elelctron microscope, and see which lubricants provide for lower wear on plain bearings (not antifriction bearings). You probably would save the Castrol for cooking french fries.

The great advantage that Exxon/Mobil has given Mobil 1 over Amsoil products is in the marketing. The Amsoil distribution network is nothing compared to Mobil 1. It's VERY difficult to find Amsoil products on the shelf, anywhere. There are four racing/performance shops in my town, countless parts stores, machine shops, and way too many auto parts "grocery satores". None of them offers Amsoil. I can find Red Line stuff everywhere, but not Amsoil. Worse yet, with all the heavy industry in this towm, the opportunity would be great for their industrial line, but none of the four lubrication blenders/industrial oil suppliers in the area handle Amsoil. That's too bad, since it is an excellent product and would probably get a lot more use if it were more widely available. I guess Amsoil is content to hold a smaller share of the market, but it doesn't make sensse to me.

 

Then what did I buy and just have put in.

Is it new I guess?

Unfortunately, I'm at college and had to have my oil changed, got charged 40 mins of labor for it, what a rip. After hearing horror stories I was worried.

 

You probably would save the Castrol for cooking french fries.

 

I'm not sure what you have in your crankcase, but according to these people ( Mobil1.com ) their offerings for fully synthetic lubricants are API/SAE rated 0W-30, 0W-40, 5W-30, 10W-30, and 15W-50. They didn't list a 20W-50 Mobil 1.

 

where ya take it boces?

 

I had a body shop install my fan shroud today, and since I have no jack up here, and I was overdue for an oil change as it was I figured why not have them change the oil.

 

I'll recheck, I had them save the bottle, just to make sure they poured it all in, plus that's what I put the old oil in when I change oil.

 

Mobil 1 is excellent oil. Nothing wrong with putting some modified dino juice in it. IMO it's not right that Castrol(or any company) can call it synthetic when it's from dino juice or part dino juice. I could care less whats in it, as long as it protects. The ball bearing test was merely an example. Real world proof is all that matters. I've considered trying some of that Amsoil stuff, but it's really hard to find--unless I order some of it online.

 

Yeah, I must be dislexic or something it's 15w.

 

82,

Amsoil is like the sex partner of engine lubricants - It's good stuff if you can get it....

 

How much does it cost, compared to Mobil 1?

 

Vader, which Mobil 1 do you use? Why? Also, what engine do you have in your car?

If you're feeling generous, I'd like an answer to this, too:
How do you think a 91 LB9 with 20k miles would like Mobil 1 5W-30? (I happen to have a case sitting around.)


Mark,
http://www.amsoil.com/

 

Regular Mobil Mineral oil is offered in 20W-50. Mobil 1 is all I use in my engine and it's been cleaner and in better shape than most engines its age. I used 5w-30(w)/10w-30(s) when I was stock, but then went to 0w40(winter)/15w-50(summer) since I am running a high revving race motor.