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best way to install a Balancer

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Old Jul 6, 2002 | 11:57 AM
  #1  
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From: Grain Valley, MO
Car: 86 SC
Engine: 5.0 305 LG4
Transmission: M5
Axle/Gears: 3.23
best way to install a Balancer

What is the best way to install a harmonic balancer?

How much room should be between the balancer and the timing cover?

thanks
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Old Jul 6, 2002 | 12:35 PM
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Re: best way to install a Balancer

Originally posted by brett_sc
What is the best way to install a harmonic balancer?

How much room should be between the balancer and the timing cover?

thanks
Heat it up in an oven set to about 200 deg, slip it on the crank snout while still hot (use gloves). It should slip on without having to beat it.
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Old Jul 6, 2002 | 12:35 PM
  #3  
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From: mission hills ,ca
Use a balancer instalation tool . The balancer will bottom out.
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Old Jul 6, 2002 | 12:38 PM
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From: Grain Valley, MO
Car: 86 SC
Engine: 5.0 305 LG4
Transmission: M5
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Morley.....

How long should I leave it in there for?
just until the oven preheats to 200,

or for like 10 minutes or so?

Thanks,



I have no installation tool, only the removal tool
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Old Jul 6, 2002 | 01:09 PM
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Leave it in there for about 20-30 minutes after the oven reaches temp. but don't go any higher than 200 deg, this can damage the elastomer ring that connects the inner and outer rings.
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Old Jul 6, 2002 | 01:18 PM
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brett_sc's Avatar
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From: Grain Valley, MO
Car: 86 SC
Engine: 5.0 305 LG4
Transmission: M5
Axle/Gears: 3.23
thanks

Thanks for the help. but I have already beat it on there pretty good

it is already abouyt 1/4 inch away from the timing cover
I think I will just beat it in until it stops getting closer

I will use your method next time for sure though. COuld have saved me some time probably
well, at least some trouble
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Old Jul 6, 2002 | 03:15 PM
  #7  
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Re: thanks

Originally posted by brett_sc
Thanks for the help. but I have already beat it on there pretty good

it is already abouyt 1/4 inch away from the timing cover
I think I will just beat it in until it stops getting closer

I will use your method next time for sure though. COuld have saved me some time probably
well, at least some trouble
Beating it on the crank isn't good. The crank and bearings were never meant for the axial loads that beating a damper on imposses, you can do serious damage to the engine doing that.
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Old Jul 6, 2002 | 03:22 PM
  #8  
ede's Avatar
ede
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From: Jackson County
buy or rent an installtion tool and do it the right way
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Old Jul 6, 2002 | 05:12 PM
  #9  
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From: heartland
Car: 89rs (previous 2.8)
Engine: 406
Transmission: 700r4 (for now)
it appears as though we are too late...if a guy does a search, he can find a list of items he can get from a hardware store for about 2 bucks, that will work just fine.
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Old Jul 6, 2002 | 06:25 PM
  #10  
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7/16-20 threaded rod, about 5" long;

7/16-20 hex nut;

7/16" or 1/2" flat washer;

A 1/2" drive deep socket from your tools box.

That's all you need. I bought a 3' section of 7/16-20 threaded rod for about $5, and nuts and washers are pennies each. I have enough rod to make half a dozen installers (pretty much a lifetime supply). I don't lose sleep over damaging the thrust surfaces of the #5 main bearing, either.
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Old Jul 6, 2002 | 06:32 PM
  #11  
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https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=111598
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Old Jul 7, 2002 | 11:34 AM
  #12  
brett_sc's Avatar
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From: Grain Valley, MO
Car: 86 SC
Engine: 5.0 305 LG4
Transmission: M5
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Well that sucks.

I hope I didn't f**k anything up in there.

Why couldn't one of you guys be my next door neighbor?
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Old Jul 8, 2002 | 03:47 AM
  #13  
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From: heartland
Car: 89rs (previous 2.8)
Engine: 406
Transmission: 700r4 (for now)
Ya never know, maybe one of us IS.......
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