I've been using Mobil 1 since there has been about 1k miles on the engine, now it has about 15k miles.

Now to break in the cam, I can use the existing oil in there, but after that I have to change it. Or do I have to put fresh oil in and then change it again.

If I have to put in fresh oil, can I use cheap Super Tech Dino oil?

Also, last time my brother swapped a cam for me, he didn't hold it at 2k rpms for that long. How long should it be, 30 mins?

 

folllow the directions on the box.

Just don't let the motor idle for the first little bit.
You want maxium oil splash lube on initial engine running.

Use Lots of "Cam Break in LUBE" on the lobes and lifter bottoms.

Fire the motor quickly and bring to 2000+ rpm right away.
If you have any fluid leaks or other trouble, shut 'er down.
If there is valve train noise, or low oil pressure, shut ,er down, pull the covers off and readjust the valves. that are out of wack.

 

i use moly lube on the lobes and distributor drive gear. i'd change oil to 30w dino juice. run it between 1000 and 2000 set timing and check for leaks, take it for easy drive ,let it heat and cool. after 30 to 60 minutes i'd change oil and add 30w again and drive it for at least 500 miles then change to whatever you like.

 

Cool thanks.

 

Definitely dinosaur juice... NO SYNTHETIC during the first couple of k miles on a new flat tappet cam. The lifters won't be forces to rotate by the imperfect lube of the dino sludge, so they'll fail. try to keep the RPMs above 1800 for the first few minutes of engine operation for the same reason. At the 1st oil change after the cam swap (1 - 1.5k miles) you can go back to synth.

i prefer white lithium for beakin lube; works about as well as moly but doesn't plug up oil filters or leave a pile of schmutz laying in the bottom of the oil pan.

 

So RB don't change the oil right after the initial break in, not till about 1k miles then?

Is there anything wrong wtih using the assembly lube Comp will send me.?

 

The tube of Red assembly lube that camp cams includes in their kits is good stuff. Muck up the cam and lifters real good with it.

 

Use ALOT of moly lube on the cam lifters and distributor gear , prelube the engine with a drill and when it starts bring it up to 2000 and leave it there for 15 -20 minutes. After that change the oil and use whatever oil you like then you can drive it however you want , the first 15-20 minutes is all the breakin that a cam needs.

 

well how do i break in my cam cause its gonna be a rebuilt engine and i can;t just start i t and bring tit to 2 grand for 20 mins

 

Why is that?

 

Originally posted by 89formula#1
well how do i break in my cam cause its gonna be a rebuilt engine and i can;t just start i t and bring tit to 2 grand for 20 mins


It worked for me.

 

Is the break in procedure the same for a roller cam?

 

If I remember correctly roller cams don't need to be broken in.

 

yeah really whats wrong with running a fresh engine at 2000rpms?, its gonna see it eventually anyway, and the higher rpm gives better oiling, i did and so does everyone i know

 

Thanks Mark.

 

Hey Mark, have you got the cam in the car yet? How is it running if you do?

Mark

 

We're having a 3rd Gen Meet on Sat. so I delayed it just in case.

I'm ordering the cam tonite, I just got the Stealth intake.

 

Rollers, either hydraulic or mechanical, need no breakin. Its just a wheel. Bolt er in and go :lala: A flat cam has to wear in and kinda work harden the surfaces, and has to establish lifter rotation.