It seems that I only post here to ask questions... but I know very little about engines, the internals. So I guess I have to learn somewhere...

anyway on to the question... if i were to purchase these roller rocker arms:
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...31&prmenbr=361
270-3060 or 270-3062 (not sure of the stud size)

This is the engine (very bad pruchase, i could have spent like $600 more and gotten a zz4 cause of all the parts that this one did not come with):
http://www.highperformanceparts.net/.../10067353.html

would I need anything else, or could I just install the roller rocker arms.

Also does anyone know what the stud size is for that enine?

thanks

 

The studs are 3/8".
They should bolt right on.
-Rich-

 

thanks, thats all i needed

 

wait

i was wrong, i have more questions

the number with the rocker arms (1.5 and 1.6) does it match up to this spec from my engine(the second number)? Valves: 1.940” / 1.600”

If so, I am assuming I should get the 1.6 not the 1.5. Also say it was a 1.5 stock, what would using a 1.6 do. Would it still be a simple install or would I now need other parts?

sorry =\

 

the 1.5's are the stock ratio.
1.6's will give you more lift, but sometimes there's a clearance issue with the pushrods rubbing the holes in the head castings.
If you install 1.6's be sure and check to see if the pushrods are binding in the holes. If they are, you'll have to clearance them a little bit. The Louis tool is designed specifically for making these holes bigger for 1.6 rockers. Jeg's sells them:$32.99
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...75&prmenbr=361
You may not need to cut the holes bigger, but you'll have to check.
If it was me I'd get the 1.6's and plan on enlarging the holes.
It can be done with the heads on, but you'll need the intake off to keep from getting metal in the motor.
-Rich-

 

270-3060 will bolt right on no machining of any kind.

 

Ok hopefully the last thing, I have a few friends at work, that I was talking too and one of them mentioned that if I get that cam I might need new lifters.

I was looking for a kit that has the cam and lifters, but there are none on the jegs site, im looking at other places now

 

Any time you replace a flat-tappet cam, you should put in new lifters. If your engine has a roller cam however you can re-use your old lifters if they're in good shape.

Jeg's & Summit & your local shop all sell kits with cam & lifters, from Comp or Crane or whoever. You may have to call and ask.

edit - I just went and looked at the engine you bought... it's the basic 350 with dish pistons and 993 heads, and (insert puking noise here) the 929 cam. What a terrible cam. You'll benefit dramatically by changing it. I don't know what cam you have in mind, but I'd suggest a Comp XE262.

That's a flat-tappet setup, BTW.

 

For what your doing why not try 270-100052 cam and lifter kit $100 at jegs. 272 duration 454 lift . good luck.

 

jegs and anyone else that sells cams has them with lifters also, actually it'd be hard to buy a cam with out lifters. make sure your heads are for non sa rockers because that sure looks like non sa rockers you're wanting to buy. if they are non sa you'll need a way of locating them. depends on how your head is machined where the push rod goes thru, you may need guide plates and if you need guide plates you need screw in studs. you really need screw in studs anyway because the others will pull out on you in time. you may also want to consider steel rockers, weigh less and are bullet proof, the aluminum ones have a 30,000 mile life.

 

fliyin:
Would that drop right in?, thats seems like a really big jump over the stock lift and duration. Will i need pushrods too, or anything else. How rough would the idle be?

I just found the edlebrock one i was looking at on the edlebrock site and it does come with lifters but its only 214 duration 295 lift which is a lot lower than the one you are suggesting.

ede:
how would i find that out about my heads, this is my engine:
http://www.highperformanceparts.net/.../10067353.html

 

Don't get the Edelbrock one, it's not near as good as cams that have been dedigned in the last 20 years or so.

If the heads are actually 993s, they don't need the SA rockers or guide plates, they have slots. Any typical flat-tappet cam is pretty much a drop-in. However, I would strongly recommend putting some valve springs in when you change the cam, GM uses some pretty crappy ones.

Check the head casting # under a valve cover, that will tell you a great deal more about what you have.

 

Stock valve springs will handle most any cam under 460 lift. Yes it will bolt right in. No, you won't have to change pushrods and as RB83L69 mentioned the Goodwrench motor usually uses 993 casting heads (perimeter Valve covers) no self aligning rockers needed. The idle would be mildly noticable and you shouldn't have any probs with vacuum accessories with it.


BTW the cam has 216 dur @ .050 and 454 lift 110 lobe centerlines
making the idle noticable.

 

ok.. hehe this is getting much more complicated than I expected
but thats what usually happens.

I basically want to install roller rocker arms a cam and lifters.
maybe valve spring depending on how cheap they are but if the stock ones will be fine i would rather leave them.

I dont have a lot of money to spend on this.
This car is a daily driver, so I dont want to use a cam that is going to give me a really rough idle, or anything that might cause problems down the line

I have decided on these roller rocker arms(jegs part# 249-1302-16)
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...39&prmenbr=361

hopefully I won't have any sort of clearance problems, I don't know if I can figure that out without actually trying to install them or not

For the cam i was looking at this(jegs part# 350-2102)
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...77&prmenbr=361

that is the RPM range that i really need, either off idle (900ish) or 1200-5200 would be fine maybe 1500-5500

since that cam isnt much of an upgrade from the stock i was also considering this(jegs part# 270-103042)
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...50&prmenbr=361

or this(jegs part# 249-CL12-210-2)
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...02&prmenbr=361

I am kinda lost now on the cam, I just want to make sure that i won't have to install new pushrods valve springs etc. But I am still looking for a noticable power increase over what I have, which shouldn't be too hard.

 

hmm crap while i was writing that a few of you replied.

I guess what I am really worried about is loosing too much low end, thats why I am looking for the 1500-5500 or 1200-5200 range.

So the 2nd 2 cams that I was looking at have lift higher thatn .460 so I would need springs which look like at least anoher $100 argh

 

Here's my last 2 cents on this one Your listing a 1.6 rocker arm and a very nice expensive one. Forget what people tell you about aluminum rockers some crate motors come with Alum. Roller rockers factory! With the smaller cam your specifying 270-100042 and stock spring pressure a good set of energizer or Harland Sharps will last virtually forever (well after the car and engine are gone) and save a little dough for other things like intake and carb go with a performer RPM (equivilent) and edelbrock 750 (although most think this is big it will work great) if you don't have one. You don't need new valvesprings if you stay under 460 lift. Just to help this Keep it simple mild cam 1.5 rockers and doing as little modifying as possible.

 

I have an edlebrock performer intake and a performer 700 carb already, I had to buy them when the i got the engine, it had nothing.

I got the performer, because serveral ppl told me that the RPM had given them idle and electrical power problems

 

Those rockers are OK, but they will raise your lift to the point that new springs would be appropriate.

Here's the cam I would suggest. It will give about the same power as the old 269 HE cam which was a good cam in its day but has been "superseded". It will definitely idle better.

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...96&prmenbr=361

Comp will sell you a kit with cam, lifters, timing set, springs, retainers & keepers, for far less than they would cost separately. IMHO that's the way to go. The springs they put on that "Hecho En Mexico" motor are garbage, and will not survive long with as much lift as any of the cams you're talking about will produce.

You won't need new push rods.

The guts of that motor aren't too bad. It's never going to be any kind of a monster motor, but it does have the potential to be a great deal better than the way it comes. But, look at the price, and you can see why it's built so cheap; it's..... well, cheap. It's not intended to be a performance piece, merely a replacement stock one.

 

which cam on that page...

i was just looking there at this one
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...58&prmenbr=361

 

The 12-238, otherwise known as the XE262. It's the next one up in that series from the one in your link which is the XE256.

 

ok i think i have decided

for roller rockers:
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...19&prmenbr=361

since i can't afford the other ones

and this cam kit
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...67&prmenbr=361

which includes this cam
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...60&prmenbr=361


thanks for all your info and suggestions

 

Get new valve springs. I didn't and now I float the valves at 4000 rpms. It would have been so easy to do when the heads were on a bench. I wasn't evan trying to be cheap, I just never thought about it.

 

Hmm, well i already ordered, I decided the roller rockers were too much, and I talked to the guy who is gonna help me with the install, and decided to get just the cam and lifters, to save some more cash. I'm really on a tight budget hope so i it works our ok =\

If not I'll just have to change the springs later

 

You may not have an choice on the matter.

If the cam doesn't have too much lift, you could also consider a "rev-kit". It will reduce valve float AND puts pressure on the body of the valve lifter not the plunger (like new/stronger springs).

Also, if you are re-using hydraulic roller lifters, they may collapse if they are fairly old and the springs too stiff. That just happened to me when I did a head swap with stronger springs (in anticipation of a future cam swap) and I re-used my old hydraulic roller lifters.

So now I am looking at those Comp Cam "Pro Magnum" Hydraulic Roller lifters they just released (Part# 875-16). They are the best Hydraulic Roller lifter I have found that offer a "stock GM HR replacement style". Something to consider if you think you may be pulling high revs.