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Setting valve lash with engine running

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Old Apr 1, 2003 | 02:42 PM
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Setting valve lash with engine running

Well, I got my motor running. It seems to do pretty good. It was the first time I had set valve lash. I did it with the engine shut off. It turns out I set it with the old style timing tab, and my balancer has the mark in the place for the newer tab postion. Anyway, I can here slight ticking that sounds like it is coming from my valvecovers/valvetrain possibly. I cut up a valve cover and tried to set it with it running. It seems that that slight ticking is always there and if I loosen up a rocker I get a louder tick/clacking. I set it by that louder noise, and the quieter noise is still there. I have only done one side because I want to make sure I am doing this right. I was backing off till I got the louder noise then tightened till it went away and another half turn.

Anyway, could that quieter noise be bad header gaskets? I used the cheap gaskets that came with the headers temporarily because I ordered the wrong aluminum ones(I ended up with the square port gaskets instead of round). The header bolts have loosened and I have tighened them up. How do I tell what the noise is coming from and if it is supposed to be there?

Oh, and I was happy because the cut I made in the valve cover fit and blocked the oiil right the first time, but then while I was doing it I started seeing smoke, and looked down and I didnt have the gasket lined up right, and the oil was running right out from under the valve cover down the header flange and clear down to the floor. I lost about a quart of oil before I realized it I think. I just cant seem to get anything to go right lol.

Ben
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Old Apr 1, 2003 | 02:43 PM
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Oh, and will the motor run funny or anything when I drive it if the valve lash is not quite right?

Ben
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Old Apr 1, 2003 | 04:55 PM
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Momar,

It sounds as if you performed the procedure correctly - Back off the adjusting nut slightly and incrementally until just a little valve noise is apparent and constant, then incrementally (about 1/16 turn) tighten the adjusting nuts, pausing a few seconds for the lifter plunger to stabilize. At just the point that no noise (lash) is apparent, adjust the nut another 1/4-1/2 turn to tighten. On a 3/8-24 thread (standard SBC rocker stud) that adjustment will locate the lifter plunger about 0.010-0.020" into the lifter body. Typical plunger travel in a hydraulic lifter is about 0.060-0.080", so the plunger isn't quite halfway into the travel. This 1/4-1/2 turn (0.010-0.020") allows some automatic lash adjustment, but prevents unseating the valves s due to high RPM lifter pump-up.

Once you're satisfied with the position, move on to the next one.

Be aware that some more aggressive cam profiles with steep ramps will create some valve train noise. This used to drive me NUTS until I grew accustomed to it and realized it was normal (even in many factory engines). If the noise is just a gentle "whoosh-whoosh" sound with no clacking rockers, it may be normal valve train noise. If there is a sharp tick or rapping sound, you may still have lash or possibly an exhaust leak. If you are still hearing the noise at the same level with the rocker covers installed, it probably isn't the valve train.

You can uses a short section of heater, garden, or large vacuum hose as a directional listening device. Hold one end (hopefully, the clean one) near your ear and aim the other end toward suspected parts, like the exhaust flanges. As you pass the source of the noise, the level should be very apparent in the hose.

Last edited by Vader; Apr 1, 2003 at 04:58 PM.
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Old Apr 1, 2003 | 04:56 PM
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From: W. Kentucky
Car: 83 Z-28
Engine: 406
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.70
Originally posted by Momar
Oh, and will the motor run funny or anything when I drive it if the valve lash is not quite right?

Ben
It will miss out if they are too tight. It sounds like your setting them right. You should do the other side and see if the ticking goes away. We are talking about a hydraulic cam right?
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Old Apr 1, 2003 | 05:13 PM
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Car: yy wife, crazy.
Engine: 350, Vortecs, 650DP
Transmission: TH-350
Axle/Gears: 8.5", 3.42
HITHERE???

What's with all the HITHERE's? Are you all that bored you just have to say HITHERE? Or is it HIT-HERE?
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Old Apr 1, 2003 | 05:18 PM
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From: W. Kentucky
Car: 83 Z-28
Engine: 406
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.70
[HITHERE]Originally posted by AJ_92RS [/HITHERE]
HITHERE???

What's with all the HITHERE's? Are you all that bored you just have to say HITHERE? Or is it HIT-HERE?
HITHERE don't know but it's in this post also. https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=170337
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Old Apr 1, 2003 | 05:19 PM
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From: Rio Rico, AZ 85648
Car: 1989 IROC-1
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
HITHERE have set the valves according to the hanes manual, but there always seems to be one that is too lose. HITHERE HITHERE get so sick of adjusting them. Like Vader HITHERE said, with steep lobed cams, there is just HITHERE little extra noise.

BYETHERE

HITHEAR

HIGHTHERE
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Old Apr 1, 2003 | 05:19 PM
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NM - HITHERE figured it out. hahahhahaha

Last edited by BTS88IROC; Apr 1, 2003 at 05:41 PM.
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Old Apr 1, 2003 | 05:25 PM
  #9  
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HITHERE guess HITHERE shouldn't have presumed, but there isn't an off-the-shelf XE-268 duration solid lifter cam in the Comp catalog. There are XR mechanical roller cams in the catalog, however.
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Old Apr 1, 2003 | 05:37 PM
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Yes, it is HITHEREHITHEREHITHEREHITHEREHITHEREHITHEREHITHERE hydraulic cam. It is the off the shelf hydraulic flat tappet cam. It is 224 230 @.050 and .477 .480 w/ 1.5 rockers HITHEREHITHEREHITHEREHITHEREHITHEREHITHEREHITHERE believe. It is on HITHEREHITHEREHITHEREHITHEREHITHEREHITHEREHITHERE 110 LSA.

Ben
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Old Apr 2, 2003 | 07:29 AM
  #11  
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Ok, now that I can type properly that was supposed to be:

Yes, it is a hydraulic cam. It is the off the shelf hydraulic flat tappet cam. It is 224 230 @.050 and .477 .480 w/ 1.5 rockers I believe. It is on a 110 LSA.

Ben
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Old Apr 2, 2003 | 08:24 AM
  #12  
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From: Pueblo Co
Car: 1989 C4
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 307
Yea higher duration cams make more valve train noise. A good trick to reduce noise is to install aluminum valve covers. The thick walls deflect the noise, not just for looks . Actually I think Vader mentioned this trick awhile back.


Edit: Also some headers do have a tic-tic-tic sound to them even if they are not leaking.

Last edited by SSC; Apr 2, 2003 at 08:28 AM.
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Old Apr 2, 2003 | 01:28 PM
  #13  
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Oh, and does this have to be done at a certain rpm to get it right?

Ben
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