This is the second wire I have charred in the past two weeks. The little wire coming off the Battery ground that is bolted to the inner fender is toasted. I replaced a couple after the original one burned up. I thought it may have had something to do with the fact that I had my MSD box and amplifier wired directly to the positive side of the battery. I replaced the the whole negative cable to be safe, disconnected the amplifier and took out the electric fan( didn't notice ant problems before the elec. fan). I have had no problem with the starting since then until today. I have made a few short trips around town today taking care of business. I noticed that the voltage was not charging above 13v. I also noticed it would turn over a few times before it would fire up. It usually fires right up. Then on my last trip. I went to a buddies house to give him a hand with a cracked fuel line. I went to start the car and it turned over real slow, like it had a low battery. Turned the key to on and the voltage was at about 11 or 12 volts. What is the deal? Could the alternator cuase this? Is my ground too small for the MSD box? Could I have miss wired something when I swapped motors and reinstalled the starter? Whats the deal???

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1984 Z/28
GoodWrench 350, Edlebrock Performer intake, MSD 6AL Super HEI kit, Crane CompuCam 2040, Edelbrock headers, Catco cat, Flowmaster aftercat, K&N, Custom 700R4, B&M Megashifter, Eibach springs, KYB GR-2 struts/shocks, Jegster adj LCA's, Lakewood adj panhard bar, BFG Comp T/A's, 160* stat, AutoMeter Pro-Comp COOLANT GUAGE.

 

You are missing a ground strap at the back of your engine that grounds the firewall to the block. Probably when you swapped engines it either broke or was lost. I use 10 guage wire to replace that ground strap when I find them missing. Another thing That I've found that helps is running a battery cable from the block to the frame.

 

I'm not sure about the ground straps. I know they were connected, but I don't know if they may have broken since then. I do not have a ground between the block and frame beides the motor mounts themselves. Whatever came off the 305 went on the 350 electrically speaking. By the way, what is that smaller ground used for? All I know is that when it burnt the first time it wouldn't turn over after I cut it.

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1984 Z/28
GoodWrench 350, Edlebrock Performer intake, MSD 6AL Super HEI kit, Crane CompuCam 2040, Edelbrock headers, Catco cat, Flowmaster aftercat, K&N, Custom 700R4, B&M Megashifter, Eibach springs, KYB GR-2 struts/shocks, Jegster adj LCA's, Lakewood adj panhard bar, BFG Comp T/A's, 160* stat, AutoMeter Pro-Comp COOLANT GUAGE.

 

I think you have a poor connection from the main ground to the motor.

 

If it doesn't crank over with the little ground wire cut...sounds like you have a bad connection on the ground cable where it bolts onto the block. The little wire it used to ground all the little accessories that GM felt were easier to ground through the body than the block, and it saves running excess wires (lights, horn, guages, etc) The battery ground cable should be on a clean part of the block (paint should be removed from the block also)<-which should be done for all grounds, body grounds and block.

 

Can this problem case a battery not to stay charged.

 

The nagative cable from the battery is not grounded to the engine. Is this a problem? I left it where it was before the swap. Where is the best place to ground the block and the nagative lead? There isn't much of a frame on these cars. Right now, I have the main nagative lead grounded to the inner fender below the strut tower and just above the fuel lines. The smaller lead is connected to the inner fender next to the battery. The block is grounded by the three leads coming from the fire wall to the passenger side head where the hoisting plate was. Where are the best places to ground this dang thing?

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1984 Z/28
GoodWrench 350, Edlebrock Performer intake, MSD 6AL Super HEI kit, Crane CompuCam 2040, Edelbrock headers, Catco cat, Flowmaster aftercat, K&N, Custom 700R4, B&M Megashifter, Eibach springs, KYB GR-2 struts/shocks, Jegster adj LCA's, Lakewood adj panhard bar, BFG Comp T/A's, 160* stat, AutoMeter Pro-Comp COOLANT GUAGE.

 

Z2/8, The main nagative batt cable should be grounded to the frame. It is usually grounded to the crossmember under the block. After you crank a while does the main neg cable get hot? I would also check the positive connection to the starter. Remember, power flows from negative to positive, so if you do not have a good connection there, the neg cabling will get real hot due to the extra current flowing through trying to compensate. Good luck.

------------------
If you have a problem,
If no-one else can help,
And if you can find them,
Maybe you can hire....
THE A-TEAM

 

When I get my car back from my buddy's house I'll give your tips a shot. Would I be safe to go ahead and reconnect my amp after better grounding everything? Boy, I feel dumb. I get paid to do this stuff on $30,000,000 F-18's and can't figure out my own dang $3,200 Camaro. Thanks fellas.

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1984 Z/28
GoodWrench 350, Edlebrock Performer intake, MSD 6AL Super HEI kit, Crane CompuCam 2040, Edelbrock headers, Catco cat, Flowmaster aftercat, K&N, Custom 700R4, B&M Megashifter, Eibach springs, KYB GR-2 struts/shocks, Jegster adj LCA's, Lakewood adj panhard bar, BFG Comp T/A's, 160* stat, AutoMeter Pro-Comp COOLANT GUAGE.

 

The main neg. lead should always be grounded to the engine. Usually on the alt. bracket.

The smaller one is the body ground.

If the smaller one is burning off than the main ground is not installed right. When you crank the engine its trying to ground the starter/everything else through the small wire. It can't handle it.



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ASE Mechanic/Machinist/Smog Tech

RTKTGTR 1999 NBM T/A, flowmaster,FRA,Pro Kit,BMR STB, polished calipers.
1986 Chevy 3/4 ton pick up,flowmasters,4.10s,
1981 corvette FOR SALE
1995 ZX6R,Yosh,D207s

GO #3

 

The above post got it right. Because you lost your primary ground (the big #4AWG or similar), all the current to turn over the starter (over 150 amperes?) is going through this little wire, causing it to overheat/burn. Ensure your primary connection is clean and secure.

Contrary to what was stated several posts above, the little wire is NOT because GM decided to ground some devices through the frame and not the engine. It is to ensure that the frame is grounded to the battery negative terminal, not through the engine through the transmission/transmission mount/drive shaft/rear axle/brake line/spring mounts. It's important that the engine and frame are grounded as good as possible, which is why you'll often see several grounding straps from the engine block or other points, to the body/frame.

Did it affect the charging of the battery? Good possibility, but who knows for sure? (Not me.)

 

Doh! Actually now that I think about it, all my cars were grounded to the block directly. Not the Alt. bracket, but the block itself (right in front of the crossmember), on the driver's side. BTW this may be diff. from camaros. I've owned a handful of f-bodies, all of the GTA and T/A line.

That's why I waanted him to check if the main line got hot. That's what I get for rushing!!

------------------
If you have a problem,
If no-one else can help,
And if you can find them,
Maybe you can hire....
THE A-TEAM

 

My 83 TA was grounded just below the alt. on the smog pump bracket. (factory location)

The older stuff is on the top of the alt. bracket.

------------------
ASE Mechanic/Machinist/Smog Tech

RTKTGTR 1999 NBM T/A, flowmaster,FRA,Pro Kit,BMR STB, polished calipers.
1986 Chevy 3/4 ton pick up,flowmasters,4.10s,
1981 corvette FOR SALE
1995 ZX6R,Yosh,D207s

GO #3

 

I'll try grounding it where the smog pump was like Engineboy said. Right now I will have to work on my fire damage. Thanks guys.

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1984 Z/28
GoodWrench 350, Edlebrock Performer intake, MSD 6AL Super HEI kit, Crane CompuCam 2040, Edelbrock headers, Catco cat, Flowmaster aftercat, K&N, Custom 700R4, B&M Megashifter, Eibach springs, KYB GR-2 struts/shocks, Jegster adj LCA's, Lakewood adj panhard bar, BFG Comp T/A's, 160* stat, AutoMeter Pro-Comp COOLANT GUAGE.

 

Right next to the 3/8 alternator pivot bolt there should be a tapped 5/16 bolt hole.

Thats where mine was bolted.

Sorry to hear about the fire man....that just blows.

Good luck.

------------------
ASE Mechanic/Machinist/Smog Tech

RTKTGTR 1999 NBM T/A, flowmaster,FRA,Pro Kit,BMR STB, polished calipers.
1986 Chevy 3/4 ton pick up,flowmasters,4.10s,
1981 corvette FOR SALE
1995 ZX6R,Yosh,D207s

GO #3

 

Hi guys. I have a quick follow up question. My main neg. cable from the battery is grounded to the block right at alternator. I have no small wire to fenderwell and braided strap from firewall to block is broke. Would this cause my engine to turn over hard and possible not start??? Sorry to hear about the fire also. Had that happen when a carb backfired after a swap.