PLEASE HELP!!!! Well, once again, I'm getting the starting probelms that promted another thread about timing. I had the timing set and although the car runs better and starts better most of the time, I am still getting a consistant start and run problem. Here is what happends every other day.....

Start car, let idle for a few minutes
Idle will fluctuate consistanly to the point of stall, but will not stall. Back and forth between 500-1500RPMs
When put in gear, car will stall
Will not start again for ahwile
Normally, the next time I get the car started, all is well.

I was going over and over and over about what the problem may be, and I was only able to come up with a few things. Things like the TPS, the IAC, the TB/Plenum gasket which was damaged during the manifold gasket change, but the seal seemed good. Any of this seem the culprit?

 

the IAC would be my best bet, when the TPS is damaged/disconnected
it doesn't make the engine stall, but it makes the idle high, my idle
was 2000rpms with the TPS damaged.

IAC might make the car stall, but I've not read any specific cases,
look at that first.

it should throw a code, btw.

 

89,

A little more information might help.

What is the base timing setting?

Have you cleaned the throttle body?

Have you removed, disassembled, cleaned, and lubed the IAC stepper motor?

 

Sorry, I rekon a little more help would suffice. It;s a 350TPI. Timing was set back to factory specs on Monday. I took the TB off to replace the intake manifold 6 weeks ago and also repalced every part of the EGR system.
The car is throwing a code32.

Vader - Not sure I know what the IAC stepper motor is, but if you tell me, I'll find it and clean the crap out of it when i replace the IAC this weekend.

 

code 32 is something wrong with the EGR or diagnostics switches
connected to it, make sure you reconnected everything, double
check everything.

if the valve is stuck open, it'll introduce too much exhaust into
the intake, and this is bad at idle.

does it throw the code as soon as you start the car?


just my two cents.

 

89,

The IAC IS the Idle Air Control, and it consists of a phased, two-coil stepper motor driving rack gears, a mating pintle and shaft with gear teeth rolled into it, and the valve tip at the end of the pintle.

What you are planning to replace is what I am advising that you remove and clean first. It only takes a little bit of gum and varnish to render an IAC completely ineffective. The top image is a dirty IAC that was completely unresponsive, and the bottom image is the same IAC after cleaning, which worked as good as new:



Save a few bucks and try cleaning your existing unit first. If it has failed completely, you'd be getting a constant MIL and error code '35'. If you don't have the code, the IAC is electrically functioning and is probably dirty. Make sure you clean the bore in the throttle body when you remove the IAC.

 

Vader, your too smart!

I'd say EGR, my EGR was screwing up and my car acted the same way man.

 

For the love of ***, if I never hear EGR again, it will be too freakin soon. I am so sick of haivng to fool with this system. I thought if I replaced every part of it, all would be well in the kingdom. I'm shooting for the IAC first, but then I'll check the EGR. CRAP!!!!