I don't think its anything mayjor. Got the motor in, the only thing that I noticed was that I didn't plug in one male plug in the rear of the engine bay. I think it went to some emssions equipment.

Anyway, I turn the key, I can here the pump prime and the dash lights up as usual, but I turn to start and she does nothing. Battery is new, starter is not. I know the started is old, but it work perfectly when I took it apart. Although it has been sitting for 5+ months.

Please let me know what you think.

PS- the crap in my sig is the old build up (null and void)

 

I think after making sure I had all the wires connected to the starter I would see if I was getting 12 volts to the smaller one on the solenoid that tells it to engage the starter when the key is turned on. Just unhook it and have someone turn the key while you take the reading. If not then start working backwards.

 

You should make sure you've got everything plugged in too. There's nothing you can leave disconnected and not affect how the car runs, except maybe the diverter valve, washer pump, things like that. Might want to check your grounds as well.

 

I'll let you know how it goes. I'm going to try and work on it tonight.

 

If all wired correctly...sures seems like a VAT's issue.

Pull codes from the ECM, see if the VAT's pop's up.

 

ye, if the starter ain't getting the power, it's quick and easy to run a jumper on the starter rely in the driver's side kick panel to bypass the vats just to see if that's the issue.

If it's an auto then theres a relay in the sifter also I think. To make sure it's in park.

 

That will get you the starter to crank, but the injectors still won't fire.

 

There was a similar post last week and the cure was he forgot to connect the neutral safety switch in the console. Same goes for the clutch, if you have one. Another quick test, attach a remote starter to the solenoid. That would confirm if the starter does in fact work. You could even use a screwdriver to jump out the starter. Just make sure the car is in neutral. Then back track from there. If it is something as simple as a bad/disconnected neutral safety swith or ignition swith, you should be able to start the car with the key on with the remote starter. Thats assuming its not a VATS problem.

 

That's just to figure out what the problem is, not a permanent solution.

 

Turns out the stud coming out of the started was loose. tightened that and is started right up. Thanks. Sorry for the stupid question.