I am installing an LT4 HOT cam in my L98 here in a few weeks. I am going to leave the engine in the car though, so can anyone help me???

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1987 Chevy Camaro IROC-Z
L98 TPI 350 (5.7L)
TH 700R-4 Transmission with 2.77:1 Rear End

Current Mods: Edelbrock TES 1 5/8" Headers, Hooker 3" Aerochamber Cat-Back System, Performance Resource Chip with 160* Thermostat, Accel Ignition Coil, Cap, Rotor, 8.8mm Wires, K&N Filters, JET TPI Air Foil, All Free Mods, Falken ZIEX Z-Rated Tires.

Best ET : 14.32 @ 97.7mph
(corrected for elevation)

Soon to come: LT4 HOT Cam, Air Flow Research 190cc Heads, 2800 RPM Stall Converter and SLP 3.70 Rear End Gears.

 

Check this out. In car camshaft installation via "The Best Damn Garage on the Net". Hope it helps.

-Mark W.
'88 SC Camaro w/ 305 TBI

 

If you ave any questions, Feel free to shoot me an Email



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85 Z28 - Daily Driver
60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )

 

BTTT

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1987 Chevy Camaro IROC-Z
L98 TPI 350 (5.7L)
TH 700R-4 Transmission with 2.77:1 Rear End

Current Mods: Edelbrock TES 1 5/8" Headers, Hooker 3" Aerochamber Cat-Back System, Performance Resource Chip with 160* Thermostat, Accel Ignition Coil, Cap, Rotor, 8.8mm Wires, K&N Filters, JET TPI Air Foil, All Free Mods, Falken ZIEX Z-Rated Tires.

Best ET : 14.32 @ 97.7mph
(corrected for elevation)

Soon to come: LT4 HOT Cam, Air Flow Research 190cc Heads, 2800 RPM Stall Converter and SLP 3.70 Rear End Gears.

 

BTTT, again.....

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1987 Chevy Camaro IROC-Z
L98 TPI 350 (5.7L)
TH 700R-4 Transmission with 2.77:1 Rear End

Current Mods: Edelbrock TES 1 5/8" Headers, Hooker 3" Aerochamber Cat-Back System, Performance Resource Chip with 160* Thermostat, Accel Ignition Coil, Cap, Rotor, 8.8mm Wires, K&N Filters, JET TPI Air Foil, All Free Mods, Falken ZIEX Z-Rated Tires.

Best ET : 14.32 @ 97.7mph
(corrected for elevation)

Soon to come: LT4 HOT Cam, Air Flow Research 190cc Heads, 2800 RPM Stall Converter and SLP 3.70 Rear End Gears.

 

OKay, Since Noone has Tackled this, Ill take My shot...


First, Remove all The Damn Hoses, Take a few pictures First to Remember where they Go.
( Some ppl would say first remove the Negative battery Cable, But I never do that! )

If its L98, then your Looking at TPI, So You going ot have to remove tyhe plenum, Runners, and then Base, In that Order
You dont need to Remove the Fuel rails.


Also need to remove the Distributor.

Once the Intake Is off, And You can see into the Lifter Valley, Pull the Valve Covers and Remove all the lifters. Remember Where they Went.

Pull out all the Pushrods, Also remember where they went.

The L98 is roller Cam, So there will be Guideplates in the ,iftervalley keeping the Lifters iN check, Pull out all the lifters and Remember where they go.

Obviously, before all this You wanna remove the alt, PS pump, AC, Water Pump, Smog Pump, and Rest of your acc. Also remove the Radiator and The Ac compressor If You have one.

Get a Dampner puller tool and remove the Damper. Then Unbolt the Oilpan so that you can Drop it down about half an inch.

Remove the timing chaing cover
Remove the Sproket from the Cam, Remove the Chain, Go ahead and Replace the chain For like 20 bucks Now while yo have it apart.


Put te Old sproket back on, once the chain is off, and Use it to Pull the Cam out
It should come strait Out with some twisting.

Get your New cam, and Cover all the lobes/Bearings urfaces with Assembly Lube. Stick it back in.

Drop everything back In In the reverse You took it out :0

Read the instructions on the timing chain You got to install that, It will have you Lining up some marks at TDC, what you want to Do is pick Up a 4" or so 1/2 Coarse thread Bolt you can use to turn the crank, just thread it in and put a breakerbar on it.

Once You get it all put back together, You will have to Line the Distributor up so the Rotor Faces the #5 cylinder approximately.

Then, when you cant get it to start, Post back here or Email me !


I KNOW i left out some stuff so Ppl Feel free to add to My Wealth Of Knowledge



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60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Z28 LG4 - Daily Driver
**Mods**
MSD Superconductors
14" Open Element
KYB all around

 

Umm...degree the cam while it's all open.

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Later,
Vader
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"No matter how hard you try you can't stop us now"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0

 

Thanks a million guys. I don't have a lifter removeal tool, so can I just rotate the cam while its in the engine and grab the lifters and they pop up?

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1987 Chevy Camaro IROC-Z
L98 TPI 350 (5.7L)
TH 700R-4 Transmission with 2.77:1 Rear End

Current Mods: Edelbrock TES 1 5/8" Headers, Hooker 3" Aerochamber Cat-Back System, Performance Resource Chip with 160* Thermostat, Accel Ignition Coil, Cap, Rotor, 8.8mm Wires, K&N Filters, JET TPI Air Foil, All Free Mods, Falken ZIEX Z-Rated Tires.

Best ET : 14.32 @ 97.7mph
(corrected for elevation)

Soon to come: LT4 HOT Cam, Air Flow Research 190cc Heads, 2800 RPM Stall Converter and SLP 3.70 Rear End Gears.

 

Giving a step by step detailed listing of how to install a new cam is a big task for anyone to post. I'm glad someone took the time to help you out on this.

I was going to attack it as soon as I had the time to type up all you'd have to do.

There are really two principles to remember:

First, believe that you can do it yourself and second, recognize that many of the unbolting and re-bolting tasks are things that you'll have to figure out as you go.

Which tool to use at what angle to get to that particular bolt or nut is something that will take a lot of time. That's primarily the reason that the more you work on your engine the easier things become. You simply become more familar with what needs to be done to get you where you want to go.

Once the intake is off and the rockers/pushrods are removed, the lifters can be simply slid out of their bosses - really simple.

Critical stuff: Make absolutely sure the cam gear and crank gear dots are in perfect alignment. If you're off even one tooth, you'll end up moving the cam a lot of degrees (if memory serves I believe it's somewhere around 13 or 14 degrees or so).

Remember too that when the CAM gear dot is at 6 o'clock and the crank gear dot is at 12 o'clock, the engine is NOT at TDC for the #1 intake. Guys usually use that 6/12 o'clock arrangement because it makes it easier to align the two dots and that makes sense. Problem comes in when they drop in the distributor with the dots in that arrangement and point the rotor at #1 - you'd then be 180 degrees off. Instant back-fire and no-start condition; kills lobes in a hurry.

To be at TDC for the #1 you need both dots at the 12 o'clock position.

The other critical thing is proper sealing so you don't end up with fluid or vacuum leaks. I've got files I can sent you on how to adjust the valves and install a leak free intake. Let me know if you need them. I've also got a file on how to install the distributor so the engine will fire on the first crank. This is EXTREMELY important with flat tappet cams. Any excessive cranking will flatten a cam lobe sure as shootin'.

Use moly sulfide paste generously on the cam lobes and lifter bases for flat tapped installations, but only engine oil for rollers. If moly is used, be prepared to change the oil and filter immediately after to half hour break-in period is complete. Moly clogs the filter restricting oil flow.

Degreeing in the cam with the engine in the car and heads on is a difficult job. It's difficult because it's so hard to get a clean look at the degree wheel to eliminate parallax error. TDC for #1 is more difficult to establish and since it's the most important part of the process, extra time has to be allotted to get it 'dead on'.

Let me know if you plan to degree in the cam and what type equipment you'll be using and I'll send you a msg on how to do it. The most fool-proof way is to use the fitting that mounts the dial indicator directly on the cam lobe instead of taking the reading off a pushrod/rocker arrangement. Again, parallax error from pushrod misalignment will throw off your degree readings.

I'm here to help all I can, just let me know how.

Jake

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1986 Corvette Coupe, 415 CID, Edelbrock 6073s, ZZ9