.

 

i think you would be wasting your time, especially if you oil appears good on the dipstick.. To remove the oil pan, your timing chain cover must be removed and u risk a chance of it not sealing up properly...

If your worried about it, any "clumps" will be carried out by the flow of oil once u drain it from the oil pan (or most particles for that matter.)

invest into some good oil instead of a new seal n gasket =]

 

besides being a royal pain in the *** to get the pan off with the engine in the car you're making for a lot more potential problems, notabily leaks, when you reinstall it. if you do go ahead and remove the pan i'd put a new m55 pump on and screen

 

don't forget the mr gasket HP #26 spring.

 

Other way around.

 

oh yeah... Sorry about that (another mistake) but i recently did a cam swap and had to drop my oil pan 4 times in 3 months due to an accident where I hit a bump and smashed my aliuminum oil pan. forgot that the timing chain don't need to be removed buts its a good idea to anyway to assure a good seal and to place some gasket maker inside there cause i have no luck bending the pan down n throwing it up in there.

cheers for another correction five7 =]

:hail:

 

.

 

oil pump, spring, and screen will cost you 40 dollars ,m55 is a melling pn, #26 is a mr gasket pn. yes you have to drop oil pan to remove timing cover.

 

.

 

$45 bucks? You can get a standard OEM 5 quart oil pan from summit for half that...But i would noly replace it if it appears rusty..The timing chain would probably be a good idea, a new cover isn't required. Summit has a special on a edelbrock timing chain for $45 I think, check it out...

I think you are worrying about it to much, you rish a good chance of it not sealing properly... Most of the time a new gasket will leak (especially in the rear seal) than the old one due to its pretty hard to get them to seal up good...

If you feel obligated to though, well that is not my choice.

If you do take the oil pan off, i would suggest having a peak at the rod n bearings to see if you see any polish/the shape they are in.. look at the one closet to the front of the car, if that is good chances are the rest are good cause thats the one farthest from the oil flow...

 

Read cafefully what Ed wrote. You have to DROP the oil pan to remove and reseal the timing cover. That doesn't mean you have to remove the oil pan, only lower it at the front end. That can be done without raising the engine at all.

 

.

 

its a summit made oil pan.. Just call them, they sell enough that the guy knew the number before i could even finish telling him what I wanted.. It is stainless steel, meaning if you don't primer it it most likely will rust, but for the money, i bought it and had no troubles =]

as for your tming chain question, I don't know/have heard theres really no difference cept in durability on a single/double timing chain... Altohught i hate edelbrock, summit has a sale on its timing chain... $45 I think it was in the catalog...

Summit has a summit brnad timing chain as well.

 

.

 

well if you get bigger than a 5 quart u best make sure the oil sump will clear your cross member.. as for thickness I do not know.. Summit says it for OEM replacement so I would assume its the same... No idea on one froma GM dealer, probably way more compared to the summit one which is probably just as good if not better..

I was told by summit staff to primer my pan, as well as by family, so I had the mindset that it was able

Just get the summit oil pan, don't **** around haha... Lasted me so far and I fell in love with summit brnad items when I bought one of their cams..then the oil pan and I before I had the summit brand aliumium oil pan....

Just for future reference to you, going from the aluiminum pan to the steel one, the bolts for the alu were longer due to the pan piece that met the block n gasket was thicker, the bolts bottomed out in the block before it could really tighten the gasket.. had me stumped but my brother figured the bolts were smaller and put smaller bolts in, no more leaks ever from it..

 

If it was me, just change the timing chain and gears(double roller summit brand). The stock one has stretched by now. Your oil pan is just fine if it doesn't have any leaks. The oil pump will last a long, long time, leave it alone unless you are having oil starvation problems.

 

.

 

I would purchase a can of Berryman cleaner for crankcase and fuel system cleaning. You add it to the oil and idle for the recommended time and then drain. More effective than ATF. If your rings or guides were weak, I wonder what ATF in the combustion process might do to your oxygen sensor. Maybe someone with more knowledge could address that.