Some of the things I've read suggest that a factory roller block needs modification before solid rollers will fit.
Can anyone explain or show some pics of those mods?
Or is there a solid roller lifter that compatible with the un modified factory roller block?

Thanks

 

to install solid rollers:

(im assumiing the old lifters are out and you already swapped cams)

step1: slip the joined pair of oiled lifters into the bore.



thats it

 

as said above, you need a set of aftermarket Roller lifters that have a link bar.

Like these http://store.summitracing.com/partde...4924497 307612

or these http://store.summitracing.com/partde...4924497 300401

or these http://store.summitracing.com/partde...4924497 307704

they just drop right in.

and then you can throw all the factory roller BS away.

 

Piece o' cake...

Thanks

 

Don't the roller blocks have a raised lifter bore, requiring a longer lifter?

 

If you have a small base circle camshaft of at least 1.050 or so, the link bars on *most* solid lifters will just sit on top of the block not allowing the roller to contact the camshaft correctly. At least, that's what I found with a set of Comp Cams and Crowers I tried a few year ago.

I went with hydraulics anyway but since my buddy had them sitting there I thought I'd try them. A .950 or so base circle it would be even worse.

Summit had a set of solid roller lifters listed when I was going through this as being taller for "Bowtie" blocks. I assume they meant that the lifter bores were machined for factory link bars but are actually higher than the old lifter bores.

I'm sure some grinding would work but I didn't even consider that as an option.

 

I believe the lifter bores are 0.30" taller so you need 0.30" taller lifters. Of course i am probably wrong.

 

Sounds about right. My isky's are .350" longer or so for extra clearance.

 

Yup, you just gotta pick your lifters carefully, make sure they're tall enough. There's plenty of them out there that are, and plenty of others that aren't.... especially the really lightweight ones.

 

Oh... Cool enough, glad I asked.

 

What cam do you have planned for this?

 

What cam??
It wouldn't nessecarily need to be a small base circle cam because the motor isn't a stroker.
In fact it would probably end up being one of the smaller solid roller grinds like possibly the Comp XR268R (230*/236*) ground on wider lsa for EFI if nessecary.
My plan for the car is mainly to have fun driving on the roads, with possibly an occasional race during the summer.
Ultimately my setup for that engine will be modded LT1 heads and intake on top of a gen1 block.
Some of the things I've heard guys say about solid rollers make me think it would be cool to run one. And this fall I'll be starting on that engine project, so I want to be sure I choose the right block. Or at least if there's any special block prep that needs to be done for the solid roller lifters, get that done early on in the project so I won't be taken by surprise after the engine is assembled.

BTW, I'm glad that you experienced guys are out there willing to share information. Cause a lot of times the guys who work in the shops either don't have time to explain things, or else they don't know.

Thanks for the help

 

I personally like the factory linkbars. I wish someone made roller lifters that looked indentical to the factory Hyd/Roller ones but were solid.

 

Probabaly no such product exists for Chevys... but I saw a part for Harleys once that converts hyd lifters to solids just by replacing the inner plunger with a solid piece.
It's supposedly reliable and inexpensive.
I also read a story about what a mess a roller lifter can make of your engine if it comes undone.
I don't think I'll experiment with home made solid rollers, unless it's on a really cheap motor.

 

i personally dislike a overcomplicated inferior design, but it thats what you want, im sure you could get someone to just make a solid chunk to fill inside a hyd lifter....


of course, you still have the lift limitations of the stock design.

 

Do you have any specific recomendations?

 

I have always wondered how a solid roller lifter system would work with the factory knock sensor. If you plan on keeping the knock sensor I would look into this "possible" problem. Also with the cam you are running and intended use for the car I would just keep the factory hydraulic roller system. Allen

 

I wouldn't keep the knock sensor if I decided to run a solid roller.

My reason for posting this question is because I have 2 blocks, one a factory roller block and the other a flat tappet.
I'd like to use the roller block but I'm also thinking I might like to try out a solid roller some time. A lot of guys have good things to say about them, and just possibly I might try it and like it. I won't know if I never try one... right?
So anyhow, with that in mind, I want to put my block together leaving open the possibility for swapping in a solid roller setup at some point.
The guys that use solids say that there are benefits other than just the increased RPM capability, such as improved response. And I think that might be something I'd be stoked on.
So anyhow the engine is a 327 and it seems like with a nice set of heads, the cam mentioned above would put my engine into the range where solids would be advantageous.

 

What do you want out of the engine? Where do you want the powerband to be? Compression? Gears? You know the drill

 

double post -- ignore/delete

 

Well... Lemme see
Right now the gears are 3.42s and the trans is auto. I'll get a 6sp someday, I'm pretty sure, and a tougher rear end with gearing to match the engines powerband.
As far as performance expectations, I want it to be a sports car with the focus being on handling and responsiveness.
I might get some slicks and disconnect the swaybar and take it to the track to see what it'll do, but dragging isn't going to be my car's purpose in life. Unless I unexpectedly become addicted.
I'd like an engine/cam that gives me the highest possible redline without a rough idle.
Rough idle is a giveaway that there's something illegal under your hood.
But I have this craving to drive/own a car that I can shift at 6500 (but I might be willing to settle for 6200) and have confidence that the engine's completely comfortable at those rpms.
13 sec in the 1/4 on street tires would be ok.
Mainly I just want to have fun, hauling *** and bangin gears.
If I decide later that there's someone I need to beat and the 327 doesn't have enough power, I'll have to get another engine.
Oh, fuel economy is a factor, gas is something like $2.55/gal here. It would be good if I could get 18 mpg or better on the hwy.

Sound do-able?

Thanks

 

It sounds as if a 2000-6000 powerband is fine then, give or take a couple of hundred. Obviously, with any SR cam, you will probably have to up the torque converter a bit. Comps smallest advertised cam is a 2000 stall. The next one up being a 2200 stall. As for sounding illegal, sure, it might not have that thunderous idle, however, anyone who hears it will know something is amiss once they heare the gentle tippity tap that is affiliated with any form of solid cam. Pretty hard to disguise that. So, overall, kind of hard to have a "soft idle" and not the giveaway fact of the solid part. Do you have emissions testing of any form?

You said that if you get a solid roller you will ditch the knock sensor. I am going to take it that this means that a carburetor will get paired up? If so, without getting crazy, I would suggest the 268R or 274R. Comp suggests a 9:1 compression for the 268, I would go with somewhere between 9 and 9.5:1 for the 274. Both would be ok for the gears, although a 3.73 may benifit the 274 moreso. Of course, cam selection would also depend on what cylinder heads you decide to go with. That being said, what heads ARE you wanting to go with?

 

The heads I'm getting will be a set of LT1s modded to fit the gen1 (scroll back)
http://www.lt1intake.com/LT1_retrofit.htm
and the pistons are flattops.
Smog checks are only "at time of transfer" in my county, but you never know when that could change. For the present time I can get away with putting another cam in there as long as the exhaust doesn't sound real obvious to anyone sitting in a car next to me in traffic.

Comp actually makes some smaller custom SR grinds, but it seems like the 268R would work well for me, or the 274R too. But i'm thinking that with idle quality and fuel conumption being an issue, the smaller of the two would be better.

Anybody know someone who's running one of those cams?

I'm still not sure about the solid rollers in the factory roller block either. I'm not sure what the base circle is for the cam I want, and I probably should call Comp for that info, but meanwhile any helpful suggestions on block mods for solid rollers would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

Update:

Broke down and called Comp cams Fri.
After 20 min on hold, finally talked to a tech man, Brian. He was helpful, told me that for the factory roller block they make a lifter that's .3" taller.
He also recomended the XR274R (236*in/242*ex) on 112*lsa for EFI compatability and idle quality.
The .050 duration numbers of this cam are much larger than anything I've ever used, but the seat to seat timing is very similar to what I'm used to.
I'm not sure what to expect fuel consumption wise.
If a 274* adv duration flat tappet hydraulic cam gives me acceptable fuel economy, would a 274* solid roller be similar, in that arena?
In spite of the increase in .050 duration?

I'm not looking to set any records for fuel economy, but unfortunately it is an issue with the cost of gas @ $2.50/gal.

If anyone has any thoughts on this, please share.

Thanks

 

I'll give ya a few thoughts from scanning the posts up above...

13 second car does not need solid roller lifters...you're no where near the RPM's (needed to run solids) that will benefit a 13 second car, unless you're running reeeeeealay close to a dial in number and loosening the lash to drop a few HP after each round...major PIA IMO.

An engine built to run 13's, even low 13's, doesn't need to spin to 6500, nor should it.

Factory lifters should get you up to 6K, (more than is needed to run low 13's), so I'd save the dollars and work with what I had.

 

I'm gonna run a XR-274-12 in my new motor, it should be one of the best all around cams.

 

That's good to hear.
You'll probably have yours finished first, I'll be interested in hearing what you have to say about it.

If my car ends up being faster than 13 sec in the 1/4 it won't bother me too much.
My whole point behind the statement that I made about expecting 13 sec 1/4 mi times, is just that the intended purpose for the car is not as a drag car.
I just have this 327 forged/ balanced rotating assy and I want to put it to use in a setup that will be stable at higher rpms.