zapr

........I've used an engine flush before but since have installed new valve seals. Will flushing the engine be harmful to the seals? They are the oe seals. Also, what would products like slick 50 do to the seals? Thanks........Zapr.

zapr

.......Anyone?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Your question is a bit too broad. There is more than one kind/brand of flush out there. Some are simple solvents like kerosene, others are more complicated. Some you run in the crankcase for days before draining, some are only run for a few minutes w/o driving the vehicle before draining.

In general, anything that removes the plastisizers from the seals is bad for them. Extended exposure to solvents typically will do that. Short term exposure typically won't. Generally.

Slick 50 has a weight reducing effect - on your wallet.

Vader

Amen to that! The only "slick" thing about it is the way it separates a fool from his/her money. For far more effective protection and lubrication, and at about the same net cost, switch to a synthetic lubricant instead.

As for cleaning/flushing the engine, a relatively safe and effective method is to remove the oil filter, install a cheapo replacement, add a quart of ATF, and run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature. Vary the RPM once the temperature is normal to induce oil splash and spray to all areas of the crankcase. You can even drive the car carefully, but avoid heavy loads while doing this. While the oil is still hot, drain it and remove the filter. Install a good quality filter and oil (again, synthetic would be my first choice). Avoid any mineral oil that has a wide viscosity range, like 5W30, 10W40, or 20W50, since the wide range is provided by excessive polymers - the same things that are likely gumming up your engine now. 10W30 is about as far as I'd go with mineral oil, if I still used mineral oil.

The ATF is a lubricant, so it will not run seals and gaskets dry. It also contains a high percentage of detergents, and can remove a lot of buildup created from neglect and abuse.

azvolfan

Would using the ATF help the smoke on start up situation? I know it won't get rid of it, but might it clean deposits around the valve seals a bit? I have this problem on my '87 T/A.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The problem with smoke at startup isn't deposits around the valve seals, it hardened/shrunken/cracked valve seals. ATF or synthetic may help soften and swell the seals, but they won't fix cracks. And, most likely they won't help at all.

An alternative to ATF when trying to clean out an engine in prep for synthetic is to use one quart of synthetic and the rest mineral at an oil/filter change, then 2 quarts synthetic the next change, and so forth until the entire fill is synthetic.

I just use AMSOIL's flush and get it over with, though.

zapr

.......My speedometer quit at 262000km about four yrs. ago. The car has been well maintaned and doen't use oil except for worn valve seals which I replaced. I used to use synthetic oil for yrs but was advised to switch to a conventional oil because of the mileage, so I have been using valvoline max life. Any truth to this or should I continue with a synthetic? Any time I flushed the engine I used stp engine flush where you run it until hot and drain it right away. Comments? Thanks.......Zapr.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The best excuse for switching a high-mileage engine from synthetic to petroleum based oil is so you can replace the engine sooner.

"Max Life" and like ilks have seal conditioners, detergents, etc. added in an attempt to reverse the damage done by conventional petroleum-based oils over time. Synthetics tend to be more friendly to seal materials, and deposit resistant, in the first place.

So, you start off with a conventional petroleum-based oil that has to be beefed up with additives, but deteriorates seal materials and deposits junk in the engine; then you come up with another petroleum-based formula that adds a seal conditioner and detergent, meaning you have to take out something to get the seal conditioner and extra detergent into the same quart volume of oil.

Or, you use a synthetic that is seal friendly, friction reducing, deposit resisting, and longer lasting. Now you want to quit using that to put in an oil that is somewhat seal friendly, but less friction reducing, shorter lived, and intended to reverse something that hasn't happened, just because the engine has lasted longer?

"Max Life" and all its siblings (including Max Life synthetic) are marketing ploys, not consumer-benefiting products. You were given poor advice.

chio987

i was told not to use synthetic in my 84 bcuz synthetic increases pressure inside the engine and "could" blow out my head gaskets. i don't know how true that is, but one of the guys i used to work with put synthetic in his motorcycle and after a while u could see oil coming out between the head and block....so idunno. i'll use it in my 04 neon and i'll use it when i build an engine for my TA

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I've heard of synthetic causing flat tires, too.

wesilva

iTrader: (35)

Damn...I knew it couldn't be from just nails !!

zapr

.......Thanks five7kid!.....Zapr.

Cadillac

Now that sounds like poppycock to me and I am just a computer nerd.

I'll start a poll if I can.

Cadillac

Freakin' A. I guess I'm not as much of a nerd as I thought or I don't have the entitlement to start a poll. Would be interesting.



FWIW, I use name brand 10W-30 mineral oil. I would be glad to switch to synthetic or whatever is empirically better.

~shrug~

~C

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

No poll necessary.

I'd say it is poppycock, but I like Poppycock (better than Cracker Jack, even though there's no prize inside).

chio987

LOL...ya i thought it was . but i thought i'd check anyway.

84 Restore

This is funny no one mentioned that after the thread that was so popular resently


Oh yeah we wont go there again huh

DonP

My 1990 305 GTA has 74K miles on it and the 5W-30 regular oil stays clean for long time (valve seals are an issue as well as the need for a tune up). I drive it a few times a week, 25 miles one way and 25 back.

Would this car be a good candidate for synthetic oil, and what is the procedure to switch (flush the crankcase with something?)?

Are there any cars you wouldn't recomend going to a synthetic oil? My daily driver is a '97 Saturn with 147K on it, but it runs clean with no leaks as well. I'm thinking of switching that to synth also, but the high milage worries my. It will burn oil out the exhaust if you floor it. A long runs at high sustained speeds - like 400 miles @ over 85mph (3500rpms) caused the oil to go from clean to black. It will consume oil at the rate of about 1qt per 1500 miles - depending if I drive like a grandma or if I jump on it. If I drive nice the oil will stay clean for 3000 miles, so I guess the high milage wear is allowing blow-by into the crankcase and ruining the oil.

ljnowell

Water down the carb is a highly effective way to clean the chambers. We are looking at cleaning the oiling system now.

Tremo

My 88 IROC has close to 150k on the clock. I've been using M1 5W-30 synth in it for a loooong time. No problems at all. It does burn some, I'm losing oil between changes, it doesn't leak a single drop, so it's gotta be burning it even though there is no visible smoke. Next oil change I'm going to switch to the M1 Truck & SUV oil, I hear it has stronger detergent additives since it's basically a diesel oil.

The guys on the BITOG forum highly recommend the AutoRX as an engine cleaner. It's a 2-step process, cleaning and rinsing. sounds like it takes about 6k miles start to finish.

I also saw some Gunk motor flush that they say works in about 5 minutes, but they also say you may need to drop the pan to clean it out and clean the pickup screen when you're finished, so screw that.