I left my car stranded. I am so worried. My distributor finally died. How do I remove the old one and install the new one. I'm not too concerned with the timing because I'll just drive it to my mechanic for that, but towing 40 miles isn't happening for me. Is anyone an author for Distributors for Dummies?

 

What makes you sure its your distributor?



To remove it, simply pull the spark plug wires, unclip the wiring harness and remove the hold-down screw under the base on the intake manifold. You may have to remove the cap but that's done with a simple screwdriver. Other than that, installation is the reverse of removal, with one exception; setting your timing. If you're going to do this yourself, it will take you 5-10 minutes tops to swap out and time it. All you need is a light.

 

The most common thing to fail in the distributor is the module, which you can replace easily enough yourself without removing the distributor at all.

 

To reinstall the distributor, manually rotate your engine to TDC at your #1 cylinder. To do this, pull out the #1 spark plug, and turn the engine with a breaker bar and a socket over the harmonic balancer bolt (most people would advise you to remove the belt first) and put your finger on the hole. Turn it until you feel air pushing your finger off the hole. Then, set the timing mark (it's a groove) to 0 degrees on the timing tab above the balancer. Set the rotor to point to where the #1 wire would be on the cap (actually a little bit before it). This is tricky, because the distributor gear is toothed at an angle so it may try to rotate on you. Remove the timing wire (tan wire on the passenger side of the engine bay, near the A/C). Reconnect everything else and try to fire it up. Adjust your timing as needed. Then reconnect the timing wire and go.

 

or you can see where the rotor is pointed and then turn your rotor to match it and it will drop right down that way you dont have to do everything token is saying to do. make sure you put a flashlight down there to see where the oil pump shaft is pointed and then turn the male part on the dist so that it matches. this way timing isnt off. but id check the module first. also if you are gonna just throw away your dist mark your wires put tape on them and number them

 

think i'd just pull the cap, leave the wires in place, note the position of the rotor, pull the distributor. reinstall distributor with rotor indexed to original position reinstall cap reconnect wire and it should fire. if not move distributor slightly untill it does.

 

I believe I'd find the real problem before I started just yanking stuff.

If I was going to just start directly into the "shotgun" troubleshooting method and totally abandon logic altogether, I'd sure start with something easier and cheaper than the whole distributor.

As was said above, it's probably the module. The "distributor" doesn't just up and die driving down the road. It's a helluvalot easier to swap a module in a car sitting by the side of the road than swapping the whole dist, you can believe that.

You stand a very good chance of rendering your car useless doing what you propose. You have 2 ways to get it right: skill, and luck. You don't have the skill, or you wouldn't be asking this, and you wouldn't be taking your car 40 miles to a mechanic to get it "timed", so don't bet on that. I'd guess, if your luck is anything like mine, that your odds of pulling the dist, replacing it, and getting the car to run well enough to drive 40 miles, are less than 1 in 10.

Swap the module first.

 

Just gonna use this thread for my problem.

I pulled distrib to swap manifolds. First time pulling distrib for me. Well I havent got it running. I want to make sure I got the wire harnesses connected right because I pulled some wires without labeling. In the pic, there are 3 wires labeled. I want to know if the number 1 wire(brown connector) that goes to the cap should come from the wireharness below or that thing labeled number 4? Also, under the accel super coil there are two wires, one red and one yellow, do they just drop in on their respective sides?

 

[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by RB83L69

As was said above, it's probably the module. The "distributor" doesn't just up and die driving down the road. It's a helluvalot easier to swap a module in a car sitting by the side of the road than swapping the whole dist, you can believe that.

Good advice! Not a bad idea to have a few common items in the car, for potential breakdowns. Like, the above mentioned module, duct tape, a couple spare sparkplugs, wire , crimps, etc.[/B]

 

First, I'd check connectors. Second, check for voltage using the distributor body for ground. Third, check the coil. Fourth, pull the cap, check the spring loaded button at the top & rotor, and make sure that the shaft is actually rotating will cranking the engine. Finally, replace the module.

I carry a spare coil, cap, rotor, module, and of course to replace and test them, tools and a test light & DVM.

If you do come to the point where the distributor has to come out, check the pick-up coil inside the distributor using the DVM on the AC voltage setting and spinning the dtributor by hand the coil should build up about 1 to 3vac with the DVm across the two wires, but I not sure about the range.

On the road of the items mentioned above I have changed:
The cap (broken button.)
The rotor (impurities i.e. metal in the material allowed the spark to burn through and spark to the shaft.)
The module (suddenly dies, and no start.)
Also, broken locking connector tab allowed connecot to back out.

 

Can anyone help me with the diagram 3 posts ahead of this. I want to make sure I wired it correctly.

 

They all look correct, most connectors that look the same will have different color wires, and are keyed so you can't mix them, but I can't say it won't happen.