92 RS
3.1
T-5

141k on it, 11k in the past 10 months (since I've got it)

A really bad stumble at low RPM, at first only under load, then it started happening just off idle even in neutral. Seemed great once you got higher in the RPM range, and idled normal until you gave it a little gas. It started popping a little, then backfired through the intake, that's when I turned it off and called it a night... Now it won't start at ALL. Turns over strong though.

Ran great, I turned it off at the store. Went in. Came out, and it wouldn't start. Turns over great, just wouldn't catch. I was on E for awhile, so I put 10 bucks in, still wouldn't start... Sat awhile, started right up. Tried to floor it on my way out, it fell on its face, so I backed off, it woke up, I stuffed my foot back into it and it got right up and moved like all was well. Stumbled a few times out of first on the way home, but didn't die.

Bone stock as far as the driveline goes. I thought maybe another cap and rotor, and some plugs... I did them about 9 months ago, and it solved a searching idle and surging problem.

I have a suspicion it's the fuel pump, it seems to run about twice as long as it did before, and the whine fades out at the end rather than stopping abruptly. I also remember it turning on with key on power before... Now it only turns on AFTER I crank it, when the key returns to "run". It still sounds like its at the same pitch, and no change in volume.

I'm flat broke because of christmas, 40 bucks to my name. I need my car running... Anything else you guys can think of that would be worthwhile for me to check? On top of it all, I'm about to move... I need this car running ASAP.

 

My first suspicion would be the fuel pump relay. Instead of simply going out and replacing the relay, exchange it with one of the other relays, such as the cooling fan power relay. If the relays are not the same, you can carefully remove the cover from the relay, clean and inspect the contacts, and try it again. The oil pressure switch may not be supplying full voltage to the pump, is evidently not opening cleanly, and it's rather obvious that the relay is not supplying power.

You may be able to clean up the relay and reseal it successfully. Plan on exchanging some of your cash for a new one when you can.

My second suspicion would be failing fuel injectors, but that would have nothing to do with the pump not running its prime cycle on ignition turn-on. It may explain some of the operational problems once it is running, just as poor fuel pressure from an undervoltage to the pump might do.

 

exactly the kind of advice i was looking for

i have an a/c relay doing nothing since I bypassed my compressor with a shorter belt this summer (the clutch on the compressor pulley went out)

i'll swap them out and report back with any changes

i've been thinking of sending those injectors to cruizin performance anyways... maybe i should pull a nice lookin junkyard set and send them in for the meantime....

 

well, i energized the pump at the ALDL terminal, and it came on

the pump came on with the key in the "on" position also, i think it wasn't doing it before because it only does it on initial startup, and the pressure was already there so it didn't kick in until after i cranked it and relieved some pressure. that's what it's doing now. and the extended cycle is only after i try to crank it

so crap

i'm thinking it could be IAC, TPS, MAF, probably a few others I'm not thinking of. but I didn't think any of them would cause it to not start, just run badly.

The car throws no codes besides 12, but I think I cleared the codes after it died by pulling the ECM wire (thinking it was the EST) to see if it would start damnit

so... i'm looking for something that won't let it start and controls fuel or air in some way...... that really narrows it down.

i need to borrow a multitester damnit

 

talking to myself again i guess... lol

i started pulling sensors and trying to start it to no avail...

after pulling everything i thought i could safely pull, and trying to start it with no luck, i hooked up an aftermarket Accel coil i had laying around for my dads 355 build, just for ****s and giggles

it fired up quickly, but was running rough

this leads me to believe it's simply an ignition problem such as cap, rotor, wires, or plug, and the extra voltage from the aftermarket coil simply "jumped the gap" in the problem area.

this sound feasible to you guys?

i was also thinking maybe it was the Ignition Control Module, but after hooking up the coil it kind of blew that out of the water in my eyes... an ICM is 50 bucks around here, so i hope thats not it, still a possibility?

 

sorry, that was me

my brothers account was still logged in

 

My fuel pump died at 143K mi.

Symptoms were hard to start and surging, then no start at all. PSI was low at WOT, it should be 43.5 PSI when running w/no vacuum line connected to the regulator.

$90 part and $600 labor to install.

 

wow

thats insane for labor... im glad all of my labor is free

but when i install my accel coil it runs, but roughly, so i think it's an ignition problem, not a fuel delivery problem.

i haven't had time to mess with it yet, looks like it will have to wait until next month to get fixed... but i still need to troubleshoot and find out exactly what it is

any more ideas would be appreciated