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oil pan bolt torque specs

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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 12:54 PM
  #1  
1990GTA's Avatar
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From: Orlando,Fl. USA
Car: 1990 GTA
Engine: 5.7 T.P.I.
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3:23
oil pan bolt torque specs

Can someone please give me the the torque specs for a 1990 350 oil pan. I tried searching but I did not find anything, dont have time to go through post after post thanks.
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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 12:59 PM
  #2  
84z28350's Avatar
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From: Yellowknife, NWT, Canada
Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 357
Transmission: TH-350C
Axle/Gears: 3.43
Theirs actually a spec for oil pan bolts?!?!

I always do mine by hand, it doesnt take much and you will screw up the cork gasket...
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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 01:08 PM
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SLEEPER 86's Avatar
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From: Carson City Nevada
Car: 86 coupe
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.27 posi
i usually use a 3/8" socket with a 3-4"extension,tighten gradually until the extension spins in your hand with a tight grip.
not scientific,but you won't warp the pan.
other option,the new(er) fel-pro one piece oil pan gasket with the molded in steel spacers.still,you don't need a 1/2" drive breaker bar to install an oil pan!
haynes says 10 ft.lbs.
Eric B
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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 01:17 PM
  #4  
vrtc350's Avatar
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From: Frankfort, KY
Car: 81 Corvette
Engine: 355, ported vortec heads
Transmission: 700r4
Just "snug" is all it needs. I gues that is more of a feel though. I like to start in the center and spiral out when installing the pan. That ensures and even seal.
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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 01:28 PM
  #5  
1990GTA's Avatar
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From: Orlando,Fl. USA
Car: 1990 GTA
Engine: 5.7 T.P.I.
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3:23
I just want to make sure I get as close to right as possible. This all started when I did my cam swap and just lowered the front of the pan to remove the t.c. cover, it leaked. So I replaced the pan gasket by jacking up the engine with the balancer, I think I may have tightened some bolts to tight, it leaked a little at first and just got worse. I have to remove my headers,starter,oil pressure sending unit(to get headers out),oil cooler lines,etc... . I certainly dont want to do this again! this time I got the better Felpro gasket and rented an engine hoist. I checked Autozone.com and
the bolts are 8 ft. lbs. and the nuts are 17 ft. lbs..

Thanks
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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 01:38 PM
  #6  
1990GTA's Avatar
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From: Orlando,Fl. USA
Car: 1990 GTA
Engine: 5.7 T.P.I.
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3:23
You dont use gasket sealer anywhere on it, right? My gasket has a piece of paper in it that says to be installed dry without any chemical adhesive.
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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 09:51 PM
  #7  
vrtc350's Avatar
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From: Frankfort, KY
Car: 81 Corvette
Engine: 355, ported vortec heads
Transmission: 700r4
I used permaseal copper. No problem. I always put a fat bead at the sharp corners. Where the the pan meets the timing cover and the back end as well.

Last edited by vrtc350; Jan 22, 2006 at 09:54 PM.
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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 10:00 PM
  #8  
xpndbl3's Avatar
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From: Orland Park, IL
Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: SLOW carbed ls
Transmission: TH400 with brake, 8" PTC converter
Axle/Gears: moser 9" 4.11
i put a glob of black RTV at each corner where the gaskets meet up. and yes i used a torque wrench as well. in fact my motor does not leak a drop of oil.....now the trans on the other hand
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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 11:40 PM
  #9  
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From: Worcester, MA
Car: 86 T/A
Engine: HSR 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77 posi
Originally posted by xpndbl3
.now the trans on the other hand
Join the club
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 05:38 AM
  #10  
SLEEPER 86's Avatar
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From: Carson City Nevada
Car: 86 coupe
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.27 posi
if you tightened the bolts too far,the pan may be bent a bit at some of the bolt holes.if this is the case,the pan won't seal unless you carefully tap the pan back flat,using something flat on the back edge to support it.or replace it.
Eric B

Last edited by SLEEPER 86; Jan 23, 2006 at 05:40 AM.
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