350 Rebuild Good combo?
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From: SE Michigan
Car: 1984 15th Anv. T/A
Engine: HO 5.0
Transmission: TH700r4
Axle/Gears: not sure yet!
350 Rebuild Good combo?
ok, hey everyone.. this is gonna be my first rebuild on a motor.. my friend has rebuilt his 350, and my brother is a certified master mechanic.. so im not worried about getting it running.. im just worried about the parts combonation..
ok.. this car is not gonna be a daily driver.. i want it to have a nice lope to it, but nothing super aggresive.. ill take this car to the strip on occasion, but i will mostly be just driving it around town that said.
me and my friend decided that i am gonna go with a vortec setup.. so lemme list off all my crap..
edelbrock #60979 E-tech 170 vortec heads
edelbrock #2204 Edelbrock Performer RPM Hydraulic Roller Camshaft
edelbrock #7516 Edelbrock Performer RPM Air-Gap Intake Manifolds
ok this is the cam, intake, and heads im planning on using.. can anyone tell me if these would be a good setup? i did a desktop dyno simulation and it shows pretty good.. also i was wondering what kind of carb i should use, an also also.. i was wondering im not planning on running this car on like alcohol or anything.. what if i wanna run this on regular fuel? is that a possibility? am i gonna have to change the compression? if so.. what kind of pistons should i use and are the heads gonna work? or is running a higher grade fuel the only way im gonna be able to go?
the block is a one piece rear main seal, late 80's four bolt chevy 350.
what other parts would you guys recommend aswell? any specific gasket sets? piston rings? mechanical fuel pump.. etc. etc... any help you guys could gimme would be awesome.
the specs from desktop dyno is of head flow, cam data, dual plane manifold, and a 800 cfm carb, i dunno if id need an 800 cfm, seems big... but anyways.. any help would be very appreciated.. also what parts on my stock motor could i reuse?
thanks,
-Jeremy
ok.. this car is not gonna be a daily driver.. i want it to have a nice lope to it, but nothing super aggresive.. ill take this car to the strip on occasion, but i will mostly be just driving it around town that said.
me and my friend decided that i am gonna go with a vortec setup.. so lemme list off all my crap..
edelbrock #60979 E-tech 170 vortec heads
edelbrock #2204 Edelbrock Performer RPM Hydraulic Roller Camshaft
edelbrock #7516 Edelbrock Performer RPM Air-Gap Intake Manifolds
ok this is the cam, intake, and heads im planning on using.. can anyone tell me if these would be a good setup? i did a desktop dyno simulation and it shows pretty good.. also i was wondering what kind of carb i should use, an also also.. i was wondering im not planning on running this car on like alcohol or anything.. what if i wanna run this on regular fuel? is that a possibility? am i gonna have to change the compression? if so.. what kind of pistons should i use and are the heads gonna work? or is running a higher grade fuel the only way im gonna be able to go?
the block is a one piece rear main seal, late 80's four bolt chevy 350.
what other parts would you guys recommend aswell? any specific gasket sets? piston rings? mechanical fuel pump.. etc. etc... any help you guys could gimme would be awesome.
the specs from desktop dyno is of head flow, cam data, dual plane manifold, and a 800 cfm carb, i dunno if id need an 800 cfm, seems big... but anyways.. any help would be very appreciated.. also what parts on my stock motor could i reuse?
thanks,
-Jeremy
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
hmm, strange cam profile.. Never seen that one before
296/300 advertised
234/238 @ .050
.539"/.548"
Recommended RPM range is 1500-6500RPM
on a 112 LSA
I would think the RPM range would be more like 2400-6500RPM, with that advertised and @.050 duration... Maybe someone else can chime in on that?
with that cam, I might even recommend stepping up one size on the cylinder heads. They could probably be a bit bigger, since you said you wanted a bit of lope. 170cc is fine for a daily driver, but a 190ish cc would still be liveable, and would get you some more ponies.
64cc chambers on those heads. Check this to get your compression ratio. Probably want to 0 deck the block, .039" gasket, and flat top hyper pistons, something like speed pro's. With aluminum heads, and that cam, 10:1-10.5:1 CR is probably where you want to be. Premium fuel yes. If you went with 9.5:1 with that setup you could probably run regular, but your compression would be a bit low with aluminum heads and that cam, so your low end would suffer.
Any basic mr gasket SBC gasket kit should work fine.
Maybe use hooker 2055 headers, or the like.
Piston rings - any basic moly set would work fine.
Fuel pump - The stock style return type would work well. I don't know the part # offhand, but it's a pretty common one.
Check out ohio crankshaft for rods, unless you're reusing the stock ones.
Considering doing a 383 at all?
296/300 advertised
234/238 @ .050
.539"/.548"
Recommended RPM range is 1500-6500RPM
on a 112 LSA
I would think the RPM range would be more like 2400-6500RPM, with that advertised and @.050 duration... Maybe someone else can chime in on that?
with that cam, I might even recommend stepping up one size on the cylinder heads. They could probably be a bit bigger, since you said you wanted a bit of lope. 170cc is fine for a daily driver, but a 190ish cc would still be liveable, and would get you some more ponies.
64cc chambers on those heads. Check this to get your compression ratio. Probably want to 0 deck the block, .039" gasket, and flat top hyper pistons, something like speed pro's. With aluminum heads, and that cam, 10:1-10.5:1 CR is probably where you want to be. Premium fuel yes. If you went with 9.5:1 with that setup you could probably run regular, but your compression would be a bit low with aluminum heads and that cam, so your low end would suffer.
Any basic mr gasket SBC gasket kit should work fine.
Maybe use hooker 2055 headers, or the like.
Piston rings - any basic moly set would work fine.
Fuel pump - The stock style return type would work well. I don't know the part # offhand, but it's a pretty common one.
Check out ohio crankshaft for rods, unless you're reusing the stock ones.
Considering doing a 383 at all?
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iTrader: (4)
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 429
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From: SE Michigan
Car: 1984 15th Anv. T/A
Engine: HO 5.0
Transmission: TH700r4
Axle/Gears: not sure yet!
yeah.. i thought about it.. and its becoming more and more of a possibility, 383 would be pretty sweet.. but with the stuff that i was researching was all on a 350 setup.. also does the specs on the graph looks possible.. or are they too high or too low?
Last edited by hectre13; Aug 27, 2006 at 06:38 PM. Reason: cuz
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,675
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From: Arab, Alabama
Car: 1988 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 350 4BBL
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
...what if i wanna run this on regular fuel? is that a possibility? am i gonna have to change the compression? if so.. what kind of pistons should i use and are the heads gonna work? or is running a higher grade fuel the only way im gonna be able to go?...
what other parts would you guys recommend aswell? any specific gasket sets? piston rings? mechanical fuel pump.. etc. etc... any help you guys could gimme would be awesome.thanks,
-Jeremy
what other parts would you guys recommend aswell? any specific gasket sets? piston rings? mechanical fuel pump.. etc. etc... any help you guys could gimme would be awesome.thanks,
-Jeremy
As for the mechanical fuel pump: If the car has a FI pump in the tank you can save pulling the tank (a pain) by using a bypass regulator instead.
In my "opinion" that roller cam will be all the springs on the heads want to handle at 6000 RPM.
You have to decide if you can live with 92 octane only before you select parts since "lowering the compression ratio" after the engine is built is not an option. (see articles on quench height)
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Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 429
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From: SE Michigan
Car: 1984 15th Anv. T/A
Engine: HO 5.0
Transmission: TH700r4
Axle/Gears: not sure yet!
the car was carb'd 2.8... so not sure how the pump pickup will work.. not sure exactly what you mean about the springs and heads thing.. and how much exactly is the lower compression gonna hurt my power? and i figure that im gonna replace my pistons any way that i go.. prolly gonna bore it .040 over.. maybe do the stroker idea.. but prolly not.
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 311
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From: South Louisiana
Car: 92 RS
Engine: Built 355
Transmission: Built 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.73's w/ stock axles
Set some goals for hp and go from there. What would you like the engine to make? Then you can decide on head/cam combos.
You said that you were going to bore it .040 over. Does it need to be bored that much? If it doesn't, then don't. Leave as much metal on there as possible. You never know what the future holds for your block, especially if you want to make big hp for a weekend warrior.
What I'm saying is don't let .040 be some arbatrary number you pull out the sky to bore the block to. Bore as little as needed because if you ever need to rebuild it again, you can.
You said that you were going to bore it .040 over. Does it need to be bored that much? If it doesn't, then don't. Leave as much metal on there as possible. You never know what the future holds for your block, especially if you want to make big hp for a weekend warrior.
What I'm saying is don't let .040 be some arbatrary number you pull out the sky to bore the block to. Bore as little as needed because if you ever need to rebuild it again, you can.
Last edited by systalis; Aug 27, 2006 at 09:09 PM.
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