my last thread was getting really confusing since it had info all over the place and it wasnt even about the problem.. So im going to tell the whole story about this engine and see if you can tell me whats up.

The previous owner was playing with the intake manifold screws with a regular wrench.. I told him that he needed a torque wrench and a specific order to tighten the screws.. But he did it his way anyways.. didnt really care for it.

I started to do the valve seals change.. took like 2 weeks to do.. but i had JUST finished 5 mins before this new thing happened. Well.. I put all the spark plugs in.. Forgot to tighten them so they were all loose.. The it was probably super low on compression. The car has never overheated in the 4 months ive owned it. Barely even driven. Anyways.. I started up the car and it was doing fine.. despite the loose plugs.. Right when i started to adjust the valves.. i noticed the color of the oil.. I stopped and shut off the engine. And let it sit until the next morning because it was dark as hell. First thing i did was check and oil and it wasnt even a chocolate milk look. It was regular white milk looking.. The level about about 2 times over the full mark.. Next thing i did was check the coolant level.. There wasnt one.. I got a small flashlight and peaked in the radiator.. The thing was bone dry.. Same with the overflow tank. Just about an hour before.. I checked the radiator.. It was full to the very top.. same with the overflow tank.. and the oil was just fine. It didnt run until that 30-40 seconds.

I did a compression test on it:

Driver Side:
C1: 160
C3:143
C5:152
C7:155

Passenger:
C2:155
C4:160
C6:155
Battery died for C8

Judging by those numbers.. There doesnt seem to be an indication of a blown head gasket right?

Right now my finger is pointed at the intake manifold but i dont know much about them and how they work. So can someone give me some insite? Hope i posted enough info.

 

oil doesn't go into the intake, so even if it is installed incorrectly the worst that could happen is a really bad vacuum leak. Unless, there is no gaskets installed and it isn't torqued down, then, MAYBE, there is the possibility that coolant could go from the water crossover in the manifold into the lifter valley.

 

But doesnt coolant go down into the intake?

 

yes, thats what i mean, if that intake gasket is bad or the manifold isn't torqued down enough, the coolant could escape into the lifter valley. If you suspect the intake as the problem, change the gaskets and tighten it down to spec.

 

Do you think its possible that every ounce of coolant disappeared in 35 seconds through the intake? thats what makes me think because it went so fast

 

it's unlikely, but I wouldn't say it's impossible. There's a drain at the bottom of your radiator on the passenger side, you could open that up and see how much coolant is really left.

 

Would any of the coolant flow into the cylinders?

Ill check that radiator plug thing out tomorrow

 

Sure, if you have a cracked cylinder wall or blown head gasket - then coolant will enter a cylinder. Otherwise - no, it'll stay in the crankcase and of course be pumped into all your oil passages to bearings etc.

THIS thread is confusing also. Doesn't say if the intake gasket was changed 4 months before you decided to change valve seals or just before this happened, also talks about "playing" with intake bolts which sounds boring to me, it also talks about loose spark plugs causing low compression and for some reason you're doing a compression check with a nearly dead battery which will not give consistant results.....Oh- - and milky oil and your radiator is low.

-Change your intake gasket-

 

Intake gasket hasnt been touched.. The previous owner was probably thinking about changing the intake gasket himself but decided not too and tightened up the bolts he already loosened.. The spark plugs were loose so how could the head gasket blow? The battery was completely charged.. After all the cranking.. It started dying and the results were screwed up.

 

OK then - if the previous owner was "playing" with the intake bolts and thinking about changing the gasket, there must've been a reason.....(loosening then tightening) he most likely screwed up the seal then. Your whole problem could be coolant leaking from the intake into the lifter valley as mentioned above. Change your intake gasket, flush as mich of the crappy oil out that you can, and go from there.

Why would you suspect a blown head gasket anyway? Loose spark plugs won't cause a head gasket to blow. Normal symptoms of a blown head gasket are water coming from the exhaust while it's running (and warmed up), missing, smoking white, and contamination of the oil. It seems you only have one of the 4 symptoms to me...when you did your compression test, did water come out of any of the spark plug holes while you were cranking it?
-Change your intake gasket-

 

I got the oil draining right now.. going to leave it overnight to get as much as possible out.

None of the spark plug holes spit out water from what i seen

Also.. What should i do to make sure all the coolant is out of the crank case? shall i run a quart or 2 of new oil down and wash it out?

 

yes, that sounds like a good idea, but i'd put a few courts of new oil in then crank it over a lot, then drain it, or, if possible, you can remove your oil pan. I'd recommend changing your intake manifold gaskets before starting your engine again.

 

Lol.. Im to scared to even crank it.. There was hella oil/coolant in there.. It filled up the pan i always use to change oil with to the very top.. It usually only goes half way

 

Let it sit and drain while you're changing the intake gasket....sorry if my posts sound abrasive, just trying to help!

Put some cheap valvoline oil (or cheaper) in it after you change out that gasket, then put about 50 miles on the engine and drain the oil again. Put some medium grade oil in it and run it for another 500 miles and then put whatever you'd normally run in it after that....you'll be safe then. - Good luck with it!