Hi.

I'm in the middle of a complete rebuild of a 350, which, among other things, includes a new cam.

Secondly, i'm new to this.

During break-in i have to remove one set of valve springs, and afterwards replace them again. this would be a lot easier with the engine out of the car (the exhaust and body gets in the way if i want to pressurize the cylinders to install the springs again). So, i was thinking of doing the break-in out of the car..

Am i going in the completely wrong direction here, or not, and secondly, will the engine run right, with just the flexplate, or do i need the extra mass of the converter during break-in and testing?

 

As long as you have a suitable stand to mount the engine and radiator to I don't see where it is a problem. This is a flat tappet cam (probably mechanical since your using dual springs), right? Just make sure you use a break in oil additive or an oil high in zinc content and vary engine speed between 1500-3000 rpm's for 15-20 min. The engine should run fine without the weight of the converter; it'll just be very responsive, so watch revving it up. Also, it would be a good idea to have an oil pressure gauge, engine temperature gauge, and tachometer (at the minimum) hooked up to the engine to monitor vitals.

 

I broke in my engine on a stand last time. Used a basic H style stand, with extra supports welded on.
I have it video taped on you-tube actually. I could link you to it if it would help.
I just used a garden hose, teed to both water jacket drain plugs, then the thermostat hose ran out and drained that way. I just ran water from the hose for 20 mins.

What cam and valve springs are you using? Only double springs need to be removed.
However test running on a stand is a GOOD idea. Helps you to find the inevitable leaks.

 

Thanks for the clarification..

Yeah, it's a flat tappet cam, and using dual springs. I am in the process of acquiring the correct break-in oil (a little difficult this side of the atlantic).

Thanks for the answer regarding running without a converter.

Neat method just feeding it directly with a hose during run in. i think i'll use that.

Thanks for the input.. there's probably going to be more questions, so far i've just mounted the cam bearings.. there's still some operations left

-Camarogeddon

 

What springs specifically? what part number? I'm worried you might just have regular springs with a damper? Those you don't have to remove.

 

Sonix, would running the engine with such cold water straight from the tap have any adverse effects? If not, I think I'll have to use that idea this summer. Could you link us to that you tube video, I'd be interested in seeing a cam breakin before I do mine.

 

re: cold water. It's the same as cold starting a car. You just adjust the tap to flow the right amount of water. Full water volume and the engine will never warm up, too slow and it'll overheat.
it's not an exact science, too cold never hurt anything, same as a cold start. But feel the water coming out of the thermostat hose. It'll be warm. Adjust water flow rate so it's quite hot, and you'll be ok.
A cam break in on a stand is not a pretty thing. Keep in mind when anyone talks about it, they only give the punch line.... They never mention the 30 minutes of cursing and replacing parts before it actually works... (*cough cough*)...

 

Nothing I've ever done on this Camaro has been a pretty thing. I pretty much expect the worst now. If I can get away with only 30 minutes of cursing, I'll be ecstatic. Makes sense, with the water temp though, I've started her at -40 so this about 45 degrees C warmer. never thought about it like that.

 

Well you didn't see the first video.... That was mostly me screaming at my brother for flooding the engine... Nice plume of black when it did start....

 

lol, very nice. I imagine I'll avoid most of that type of drama what with my friends all being completely ignorant of any engine with a carb strapped on top, so I'll probably be doing mine solo while they watch and drink beer. :P

 

well, i ordered new heads fully assembled, and according to spec they are dual springs.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...R-1036&FROM=MG