my camaro has been having alot of troubles but i have fixed most of them just by replacing the throttle sensor, spark plugs, spark plug wires, checking the distributer/timing
changing gaskets and seals, injectors, etc but it still wont go although a lot of my emissions system is gone.

im wandering if this has anything to do with the excessive flooding still.

ive ruled out spark, timing and probably injectors, but i think there is still possibility for a fail temp gauge apperently, a bad fuel regulator and such so im just looking to see what the possible things are for causeing this because its not just a standard flooded engine i have a 5.0L 305 TPI and 15 liters came out while i was doing an oil change

 

Well for starters theres alot of things that could cause a flooded motor but simple stuff first. I would check or the fuel pressure, do an injector leak down test things of that nature. Also you say youve ruled out a few things how did you come to thoes conclutions? However on the oil change that concerns me a bit. For 15 liters to come out something is very wrong. Either someone was a complete idiot and way over filled it or more likely you have coolent leaking into your oil causeing the oil level to be high. That would be my first concern.

 

the other ten liters was gas in my oilpan, ive checked for blue spark, i had a timing gun and replaced the injectors.

so it is flooding the gas so bad its getting into the oilpan when i turn it over so im wandering if the emeissions system being gone would effect that like giving false signals to richen the mixture or so.

 

Wow if its gas in your oil pan thats pretty crazy. I dont think thats the result of a sensor because it would have to be rich beyond comprehension for enough gas gas to survive combustion and get past the rings to fill the oil pan. Its in comprehensible because if it were that rich it wouldn't even run. I suspect a leaky injector or a blown pressure regulator that allows gas to leak in after the cars shut off. Even then its a huge stretch. Are your sure its gas?

 

oh yea it smells strongly and is the viscosity of water

 

well the car hasnt been runny for a while and it would start long before there was this much gas in the oil

 

running

 

well the oil will have a gas like smell from blow by gasses and water has the consistency of water. Im just having a hard time imagining a car running so rich that that much gas ends up in the pan. The only way i think its even possable is if its a leaky injector or a ruptured fuel pressure diaphram thats leaking into the cylinders and past the rings after the cars off otherwise it would have been burned but even at that rate it would take a long time to accumulate that much. Is there like a milkshake like substance under the oil filler cap?

 

lol wow. it ran when i got it and i changed all the things needing changing because it barley ran when i got it but it did run, then i was doing the regular maintenance when i saw the fuel line was completely twisted so i change it. This is when it started smelling like gas really bad so i changed all the gaskets and replaced the fuel injectors that were bad, and it wouldnt start still . it didnt smell like as much gas after but the engine is still overly flooding. the engine is turnning over to the point it almost starts but i wont quite grab enough. im confused with all the stuff thats going on.

 

if it makes any more sense now lol i kept wording it horrible etc

 

Is it a milky brownish substance when you change your oil?

 

i think it kind of is lightly

 

well i dont know if its milky although its an unusuall brown

 

like light brown almost like beige color. or like carmal almost.

 

yeah i guess i might say like a caramil

 

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news bud. but sounds like a blown or leaking headgasket. reason of symptoms brownish milky substance. And it will definitely fill your pan up quick when you try to start it since the coolant is dump in there. Check your coolant level. And yes after changing the oil it would start up until it dumps more coolant in your engine and thats bad because water in oil is not a good ingredient together.

 

yeah it definitly not a good combo my poor bearings no matter what

 

although i still think its gas
my gas level has almost gone down a quarter tank without being able to drive and knowwere else for it to go

 

Could you by chance do a coolent system pressure test? The oil will look more milky when its run because it all gets mixed up but you should see a milkshake like substance under your oil cap (it stays there after the cars off even for a long time). Important thing to find though as that could do a lot of damage if run that way.

 

Exactly. Its manageable if caught early. If it is the head gasket. Change both. To be on the safe side change your oil. And then after the car is run for about 20mins with the new fresh oil after of course your engine has new gaskets i would suggest changing it again. to be safe. But yea if you can do a coolant pressure check that would tell you.

 

well there is none of that substance under it, its a normal healthy looking rocker arm or whatever area

 

can i do all the pressure checks because i cant start the car to save my life
lately it will come close but not enough

 

Well ide still doo the pressure test but the other thing i noticed was u said a fuel line was twisted which one was it the supply or return? My thinking is the way our fuel system works is theres 3 lines going to the regulator a feed from the tank a return line to the tank and a outlet to the fuel rails. The way it works is the fuel pump is capable to put out like 70+psi of pressure but to get it down to an appropriate pressure the regulator allows a controlled leak of fuel back to the tank through the return line to bleed off excess pressure. Now if your return line was twisted the regulator could not bleed off the pressure back to the tank and fuel would burst through the regulator diaphragm as the fuel has no where else to go. In that event fuel would then continue through the vacuum line thats on the regulator and dump into the intake. This could be the source of your leak.

 

Could gas make it milky like that though? Just wondering for future reference.

 

So basically the most important thing i forgot to mention in that post is if that happened you should see gas in the vacuum line going to the regulator.

 

it was the feed line from the gas tank threw the fuel filter

 

Well to be honest with you I really dont know ive never heard of that much gas in the oil befor (assuming it is gas for a moment). I wouldn't think it would make it milky like water in the oil (as thats really like a milk shake constancy after its run) if anything i would expect it to thin out the oil. Although this can always be tested adding a little gas to oil and see what the result is lol. In his case though if he mysteriously lost a 1/4 of a tank and has no milkshake residue under the oil filler cap I cant help but accept that its possible it could be gas. Though i still think a cooling system pressure test is in order to prove its not water.

 

Well at this point i think theres really only one way to get to the bottom of this. Its likely either water or gas. In both cases a fuel pressure test or a coolant pressure test should reveal anything interesting in thoes systems.

 

okay thank you both

i just tryed to start the car after the oil change and it was veryvery close to starting but my battery needs charging so i will see tomorrow if the rad level goes down or the gas and ill drain some oil to see if it has another substance in it lol

so again thanks and ill be on tomorrow around this time and ill say what happens i guess ill do a bit more fiddling to

 

well my rad is fine but again my gas is going down so its def gassssss i took all of my oil out and put i liter and i almost got one and a half out after cranking it about 5 or 6 times

 

Check the vaccum line coming from the fuel pressure regulator. Does it have gas in it?

 

nope i thought it would to though

 

Gas in the oil is very bad, bearings can fail quick.

Id stop playing around, if that much gas is getting in and you can see where its coming from its time to tear it apart before it cost you an engine.

That much gas should be easy to see in 5-6 cranks

remove 12+ from dizzy, you dont want it running.

Where to start, at one end of the fuel system and keep going till you find something.
Pull ever part and check and or replace.
Less ya need an excuess to buy another engine.

 

Well if theres no gas in the vacuum line comming from the fuel pressure regulator theres only one other point of entry for gas and thats through the injectors. At this point you really have to preform the pressure test on the fuel system to check for leaks. You could also have a short to ground on the fuel injector's wire causing it to constantly fire the injectors. Seeing as how u said you replaced the injectors its possible you may have pinched a wire on reassembly.

 

thanks

 

hi i just bought a 1991 z28 with a 305 tpi and i am having the same problem .
the car starts sometime but runing ritch (black smoke ) dont idle have to give trhotle and it stalls ­.

i did an oil change today and the same thing here 9 liter of oil mix with gas .
4 liter of gas in my oil ,i put my hand in the tub and nothing stays on my hand except the gas.

it's light brown smell gaz like hell and wen i put some on the ground it light up on fire with a match .

did you ever find your problem thanks ..

 

What was the problem my cars doing the same thing I need to know what to replace

 

If you have a TPI, a bad (or unplugged) temp sensor(s) could make it run ridiculously rich or flood it.

 

Thanks

 

You're welcome, there are two temp sensors that affect the mixture. One is for coolant, the other measures the intake air temp (sort of).

 

I keep replacing the coolant temp sensor it keeps going bad ill change both

 

It shouldn't keep going bad. I had to change one of mine a few years ago, but the other is still original. When you say they keep going bad, do you mean the ECM is throwing those codes related to unusually high or low temperatures? If so, it's more likely that there is a wiring problem somewhere. Just recently someone was getting silly temp readings that were abnormally high and it turned out that switching out the ECM fixed it.

In my opinion, the best thing anyone can do is to get a moates ALDL cable and download tunerproRT. This will tell you more than you could imagine since you will be able to see human readable information pertaining to what the ECM is doing and how it "sees" the world. It's invaluable especially if you get one before the engine is broke and you can get some baseline measurements to compare against later when it's not running so well.