I have a 86 iroc tpi . The code comes up that the mas is not working right. I have been told that it can be cleaned but it has to be done carefully. Does anyone know how to do this and does it work?

 

Well First off which code is it? There are 3 codes that are MAF related. Also notice how I said RELATED this is because none of them say that it IS a bad MAF sensor only that the ECM isn't getting what it expects for a reading which could be for a multitude of reasons that are not related to the sensor itself. As far as MAF cleaning goes they do get dirty from time to time and a cleaning can help if its just dirty but before we jump to conclusions what exactly is the code and what troubleshooting has been done to determine its bad?

 

It comes up code 34. I went to hendrix chevrolet and the service mang. is the one that said that with code 34 the mass airflow senser was bad. He did not check it he was just going by what I told him what was coming up on the code.

 

A code 34 indicates the ECM is seeing an unusually low airflow reading given set of conditions. For example if you had a leak in the air duct between the MAF and the motor this would cause a code 34 because air is entering the motor without being measured. The factory manual also claims things like a rough unstable idle can trip it. First I would check to make sure all the ducts are in tact and in good shape.

 

The Man Jeff!!!!! I got a good troubleshoot method just for you. Give me a second to find my past threads on this issue. Your gonna love this my man.

 

Here's how I fixed my troublecode 33/34.....I took off the MAF sensor. I got my Dremel and cleaned off the little 5 pins inside the MAF housing down to its brass color. Then I got a little flathead jewelers screwdriver and inserted into each female prong on the wiring harness. I then gave it the tornado twister to clean off the corrosion inside. Then I touched it off by applying some Permatex Dielectric Grease. It cured my troublecode 33/34. Also follow my very own thread to troubleshoot the MAF Sensor. Very helpfull and it should be a sticky for us TPI owners......
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tpi/...uble-code.html

 

By the way, have you thought of stepping up to a 350? If so, then you'll need to do the follow changes....... It's what I did when I dropped in a 350 into my 86 IROC-Z......http://tpiparts.net/305_tpi_to_350_tpi_conversion

 

Thanks for the enfo. It will be monday before I can check both of these things. I will check the air ducks and clean as you sugessed and post if it works or not.

 

Before you start pulling apart the ducts, get some carb cleaner spray and spray ALL OVER any section that butts or that has a connection such as vacuum lines, runners to intake manifold, ect. Spray anywhere that may suck air where it's not suppose to. If you dont have carb cleaner, then use starting fluid, BUT,,,,BE,,,,CAREFULL! Starting fluid is very flameable. If there is a arc from the sparkplug wires, you'll get burned.. So it's better to use carb cleaner. Even better would be a unlit torch. Once applied, if there is a flucuation in RPM's that jump high, then there is a leak. So try this method first before you take apart your ducting.

 

Also, some of the auto parts stores sell a spray MAF cleaner. IIRC it's made by CRC and is sold as being specifically for the MAF.

Jake

 

Carb cleaner and even starting fluid is just as good to clean off the thin element that is inside the MAF. Sometimes the MAF Burn-Off system isnt enough to burn off any foriegn material that collects onto the element. Just dont spray to much because if you get enough in there, it'll pool and possibly leak inside the sensor.

 

I have tryed these things and they did not work. I have notice that I can drive the car and get down on it and stop ,turn it off, whait a few mins., crank it back up and the light will be out. If I drive it hard the light stays off but if I drive it eazy the light comes on

 

Did you try my troubleshoot provided here below?
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tp...uble-code.html