Hello,

This is the first time I have replaced a camshaft and a distributor. Question: I ASSUME that once I have pulled the distributor, then I am free to remove the camshaft pull the camshaft, rods, and lifters. As I understand it, I may need to rotate the engine a bit to get the lifters out, etc. I have instructions from various resources, however I wonder if there are any pointers, tips, etc, that you might be able to share with a SBC newbie like me.

Would appreciate anything you can share. Many thanks!!!

 

To get the cam out of an SBC you have to pull:

1)Dist (remember where your rotor is pointing)
2)Valve covers, rocker arms, and pushrods
3)Intake manifold
4)Any accessories in front of the timing cover
5)Timing cover (oil pan might make this a PITA)
6)Timing set
7)Rotate cam and pull lifters as they rise (must remove valley plate and retainers first if a roller motor)
8)Anything in front of cam. Ex: AC condenser, radiator, etc

 

Same as above, except the oil pan has to come off, it goes on after the timing cover making a gasketed fit.

 

That ^ is definitely the safer and wiser route.

 

Correction
Is ONLY route

 

So the oil pan has to come off to swap out a cam. That means the engine mount bolts have to be removed, engine lifted with a chain to get enough clearance to lower oil pan, headers disconnected from Y-pipe, and Y-pipe removed from rest of exhaust system, or cut off if welded on, tranny bell housing inspection cover removed to access rear oil pan bolts?? There's got to be an easier way! I never realized this was such a humongous job! Is there enough clearance in front of the engine to pull the camshaft out once the rad is removed?

 

^I'd honestly just pull the engine. that way, you have all the room in the world to make sure everything gets put back together properly, instead of laying under your car trying to squeeze in a new oil pan gasket, for instance.

Do it right, once.

Think of the children.

 

The oil pan does not need to come completely off. Take out all but the 2 rear most oil pan bolts and let it hang. That'll give you enough room to remove the timing cover with no problem. I've done this many times in my car without issue.

Here's a pic of mine torn down during a cam change.

 

Exactly, only the front needs to hang down to get the cover on/off.

 

Replace the timing set - you more than likely just need a single chain. The dimple on the crank is @ 12:00, the dimple on the cam gear is at 6:00. I just did this a few months ago with my car on stands in gravel. I'd also suggest lining up the dimples before you pull the distributor i.e. pull the front of the engine off first, line up the dimples, remember where rotor pointed, then have at it. putting the timing chain cover is a PITA, just take your time. A nice trick I found was either baking the harmonic balancer at 400* or heat it up with mapp gas or some torch before you put it back in the crank. The key has always stayed in place for me. If you have a balancer like an ATI that has more than one part, only heat the part that goes on the Crank. But, if the bottom end has never been apart you might have pan gasket damage when you lower it.

 

And what do you reckon that heat does for the vulcanized rubber elastomer between the hub and interia ring? Get a proper damper puller/installer.

 

Never hurt any I use. But, good thought.

 

"Correction" corrected by multiple members who have done the same thing I normally do.

 

I'm the odd man out.I don't even loosen the oilpan,I pull the timing cover off carefully to avoid damage,and reassemble without the rubber end.The trick to this is using genuine Case/IH grey silicone.It sets up almost like epoxy,and in 100+ timing sets on SBC,I have had 0 failures of this method.And before anyone attempts to flame me,do consider that there is very little difference in this gap and the gap at the ends of the intake.
As a final statement,NEVER attempt this with cheap parts store RVT.

 

New damper mfgs recommend putting it in the oven for an hour at 250. 400 is too hot. I wouldn't use a torch either. Get a puller/installer as well.

 

I agree that this works. Sometimes it takes a little prying around on the pan; just have to pay attention to what you're doing.

 

Just a side note: On my 1986 305 TPI, I did not have to remove the pan to get the timing cover off. Just had to remove the 11 bolts holding the cover on, and the cover basically came right out. Did not have to bend it or anything.