I have a 350 bored 40 over flat top pistons (appx. 400miles after rebuild)

vortec heads

performer rpm 7116 intake

xe268h cam from comp cam.

stock tbi puel pump running

mallory 4309 reg. I got pressure at 6.5psi.

going to a edelbrock 1411 which is a 750cfm four barrel.

I have no emissions,

headers 1 5/8 primaries to 3in. collector to 2.5in ypipe straight thru exhaust noooo CAT. to dual outlet v-force muffler with 2.5 in pipes. and serp assembly.

ac delco plugs gapped properly,

mallory 8mm wires,

hei dizzy,

flamethrower 50kv coil,

stock cap,

gutted thermostat. temp is cheked with infared gun on goosed neck and doesnot go over 230 the fan comes on about 180. single large fan.

I have to press the gas pedal down to set choke when firing up for the first time in the day. I allow to warm up to operating temp. drop it in drive and it idles down just fine sounds beautiful. i give very light acceleration and the car takes off just fine but just past (foot laying on pedal) type pressure and the the motor stumbles all over the place. only after pressing about 1/4in down or farther does the motor catch up and the power is back. I don't know how much power the motor has but it doesn't take half or even 1/4 throttle to get the car up and going (i mean when cruising around town 25-35mph) sometimes I just want to putt around and show off the car but can't because it sounds like it is about to shut off. I jumped on I-95 and got it up to about 65mph and hit it and it did stumble a little trying to get to 80mph (just a little) I will say the more I drove it the better it seemed to do. and when I drive it for awhile and shut it off it takes alot longer to fire up. like rrrrrrr rrrrrrr rrrvroom instead of when I set the choke r-vroom (almost instantly). My so-called mechanic told me that in the summer that I would have to retune the carb when the temp came up. (he socalled tuned it during avg. temps of 45degrees and did this twice and told me this is the best he could get it and charged me $600. price included (tuning carb, rechecking timing, connecting vaccume lines, brake booster and pcv, and connecting shift cable, and wiring choke)
Please help me and sorryfor the long post. Is it possible it is flooding? not trying to double post just looking for some help.

 

Probably not.

Look behind you and see if there's a cloud of black smoke resulting from this. If not, it's not "flooding". (WAY WAY WAY too much fuel)

More likely it's lean. (too little fuel)

Since you're stuck with that inferior carb unless you're willing to buy a decent one, best thing to do at this point, is to get the tuning kit Edelbrock sells for it, and follow their instructions YOURSELF. Consider whatever money you paid somebody else to do it for you, as a learning experience; and don't ever do that again.

 

yeah it's unfortunate. this guy is a friend of my dad but hey that doesn't mean alot when it comes to money. well now that I am a novice looking very hard at becoming an expert the hard way (out of neccessity) where do I start first? or should I try to sell this one and just go ahead and buy a diff. carb.? smaller? bigger? name brand? or diff. features? has the tuning kit worked for anyone? and why does this carb in particular seem to give ppl the most headache out of all the edel's? OOOh! no black smoke. the only smoke is some white puffing when fired and warmed up for the first time during the day it kgoes away when the motor gets warm. I had the car tested and its not water/antifreeze I was told that it'll do that until warm.

 

Well I'd say, since you've already got it, make it the best it can be; if that's still not good enough, then take the next step.

Edelbrock's kit has most any metering part you could need, and some relatively helpful instructions; so order one up and dive in.

 

Oh boy, I've already been where you're at right now! My brother made the mistake of buying the exact same Edelcrock carb you're dealing with, and it had pretty much the exact same problems that yours is having. The good news is yeah, if you buy the tuning kit that Sofa mentioned, it is possible to get it straightened out. My brother bought the kit, and from what I remember, there really wasn't any decent instructions included with the kit. Maybe that's been remedied by now, this was about 7 or 8 years ago. However, I got online and found a webpage that had really good instructions and a great graph/chart with all the metering rods, step-up springs, etc. listed. I paid real close attention to the chart and the instructions, and got it working perfectly! My brother just tried winging it with the kit, just trying different combinations of parts, and he never got the stumbles and faceplants to go away. He finally gave up, stuck that carb on the shelf and put a Holley back on. My dad decided to give the Edelcrock a try on his '74 Vette, of course I was the lucky one who had to get it working right! Lol. But yeah, I brought the tuning kit with me, and followed the charts and instructions I found on that webpage, and got it working perfectly. Btw, that so-called mechanic should be shot for charging that kind of money for such minor tasks!

 

and i need to be kicked in the butt for letting him

 

Without looking up the part number, I will say that the base "Performer" carb that Edelbrock markets is in fact a Carter Competition AFB. It's the one with little power valves, one on each side. HP Books sells a very good book on the Carter carbs that gives a complete description of the fuel circuits and how to set up the different Carters for performance use. From the description of the OP's problem, I would say check out the accelerator pump adjustment and be sure that the idle screws are set correctly so that ample fuel is available at the transition slots. I have installed several of the Carter/Edelbrock carbs and have never had any real trouble making them run well. The issue I have with them is reliability over time. Holley is just a better product.

Hot starting, especially after sitting for several minutes, is always a pain with aftermarket electric chokes. It doesn't matter what brand of carb it is. They all use the same ultra basic choke set up. The electric coil cools down in just a few minutes after power off, even though the engine is still warm. The engineers rely on heat soak from the hot engine to keep the choke coil from retracting fully but that's half effective. The result is you trying to start a warm engine with the choke closed. The only half way easy solution is to set the choke looser. This will mean two or three pumps of the pedal on cold start and a little more warm up time before you take off.

The OEMs dealt with this issue on many of their electric choke applications by installing a coolant temp switch and a low/full power relay that varied voltage to the choke thermostat based on coolant temp. This can be applied to the aftermarket carbs but you need to know what you're doing to make it work right.

 

Yeah, you're right on the money. The Edelcrock is a flat-out, almost direct copy of the Carter AFB's. The problem with the one I had to tune basically comes down to a lean stumble whenever you mashed the throttle, and what cures it is the right combination of metering rods/jets, along with the proper step-up springs. We couldn't get it right for nothing until I paid close attention to the chart and proceeded from there. With the good instructions it was almost too easy after that! Another thing that helped is my dad lives in Ohio at almost sea level, whereas we're at 5000 ft. above sea level here. Also, I'm pretty sure my bro's motor is only a 327, and my dad's is a 350 bored .060 over. So the additional cubic inches combined with the lower altitude made a 750 much more agreeable on his motor. My brother really should've gotten the 600 cfm model instead. In fact, that's what he ended up switching back to was a good old Holley, universal 1850, vacuum secondary, 600 cfm carb.

 

well I just found a huge piece of the puzzle b4 I can even try to tune the carb the first thing I have to do is stop the plug wires from arching like crazy. I found out that #4&#6 had the boots on the plug but were not pushed into place (locked) on the plug and last night the pass. side wires were lit up near the headers. I figure that they probably started arching and b/c the problem went so long that they now are probably ruined and I need a new set. heck this might explain the smelling of fuel in the exhaust and why my 0-60mph time is close to 14sec. it stutters throughout the entire acceleration but esp. when applying light pressure to the pedal. thx for the help I feel kinda dumb right now b/c I should have checked this b4. I contacted summit since I had a 1 year warranty that is up in august about upgrading the wires and just paying the diff. right now I have msd streefire (assembled) I am thinking of getting some 8.8 accel wires a universal set that I can hopefully route away from the headers. and some of these http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...923%7CL2*15034#

 

Actually, I'd advise you to stay FAR away from Accel stuff! Every time I've ran their plug wires, they barely last a year before they start misfiring, and their ignition modules are usually lucky to make it 6 months! Although they're a bit expensive, my suggestion would be to buy a set of Moroso Blue Max wires, especially since you're dealing with the additional heat of exhaust headers. I've had a set of them on my 69 Camaro for probably about 15 years or so, and they've never been burnt by the headers, or ever had a single misfire either. So yeah, even though they cost a bit more, they're well worth it! On my 89 I bought a cheaper set of Megafire brand wires from Skip White on Ebay, and they've actually held up really well with headers too. Only problem is I'm not sure if Skip still sells them or not. Might want to check.

 

ok i'll try the moroso

 

once you get a set of good wires on there go after the tune up kit as said
They are calibrated for a stock motor yes a touch lean

They can get heat soak after sitting hot with the car off and the fuel percolates some they all do it. Heat shield is about your best bet.
Once set they seem to stay put and are reliable carbs.

 

I just bought me a timing light also. I know this is a redundant question but what is the best initial timing for this 350 keep in mind that it is bored 40 over and it has 062 voortec heads upgraded lift and a xe268h cam and then if u will give me the proper procedure for adjusting the timing. I'm using an hei dizzy with vaccume advance and a 1411 edelbrock carb. Thx just trying to to cover all bases

 

Depends on what the "total" timing is.

Set it for "total" - which is, at some relatively high RPM (3500 should do) - with vac adv disconnected, of about 34°. That's a good guesstimate to start with; those heads like slightly less timing than other SBC heads, which usually do best at around 36°. Vortecs seem best at around 32 - 34°.

Initial will then depend on how much "low RPM centrifugal retard" the dist has built into it.

Vac adv should add around 12 - 15° on top of that.

Best way to check high RPM timing is, FIRST, verify your mark's accuracy at 0°, using a piston stop or similar method before installing the heads; then set the mark to 10° BTDC, and make another mark on the damper that lines up with the 0° mark, which will be the "+10" mark; then line that one up with 10° on the mark and make another at 0, which will be the "+20" one; and so on, up to +50. DO NOT depend on the "accuracy" of a dial-back type light.

 

got it thx!
1. change out spark plug wires
2 full tune up
3. check all fuel filter
4. get timing tape
5. verify tdc
6 set for total timing
7 make note of initial
8 allof this is with the vaccume adv disconnected
9 then connect vac adv and make note of where timing moves
10 then check on timing curve and rate of advancement

aqnd notisced yesterday that my vaccume adv was connected to the right side of the carb to I guess ported vaccume and that the mechanic connected the fuel pressure reg. to the I guess manifold vaccume ( it sucks air all the time regardless of idle or accl.) is this normal the fuel pressure reg I have is a Mallory 4309 if im not mistaken its the common one that most of us use. thx for the help!