swapped intakes (TPI to HSR) along with an AFPR. Instructions say to set fuel pressure when the car is at idle, but i can't even get a long enough idle to get out the car and set it. I even sent my piggyback prom to get tuned post swap
Here is a video.


<iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/v4S7c4pEt_s" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

To ballpark pressure, you can either hot wire the fuel pump relay or have someone turn the key to on a couple times while you adjust it. (fuel pressure is set with NO vacuum)

Have you gone through adjusting the idle screw, IAC and TPS?

https://www.thirdgen.org/tpimod2

 

Thing is, it wont even stay on long enough to set anything. It just shuts off unless I keep bliping the throttle, giving it gas and air. Only then itll keep going. I did this once and my headers started to smoke lightly. Im using the same throttle body and havent made any NEW adjustments yet.

 

The car cannot be running when setting fuel pressure. Just turn the car to run and set your pressure that way. DO NOT START IT.

 

Coulda sworn the instructions stated to start the car with the vacc hose disconnected. The fuel gauge indicates 40+ so I still dont see why it shuts off on its own. Im thinking the timing isnt right when I put the dizzy back in. If its off a few teeth, will it make the motor shut off on its own like its doing? I cant keep the motor going at idle unless I briefly hit the throttle.

 

Timing....mine is doing same now, battling a timing issue.?

 

did you remove or replace your distributor? I aligned the shaft and pointed it towards the #1 piston so idk whats going on.
if the gear that connects to the oil shaft thing are off a few teeth, does anyone know if that will make a big difference for the worst?

 

your timing is off or you have some vacuum lines not connected.

 

I'm going to try to see if a local parts store will loan a timing light.

 

there are 3 ports on the throttle body, to the left, if you're looking at it from the front. I ran one hose from the PCV to the middle port of the TB and capped off the other 2. do you think this would cause vacc leak?

 

Yes, if you have an open breather in the other valve cover.

Air will be sucked right through the engine through the pcv and into the intake.

 

I dont have an air breather on the other side.

 

cap all of them on the TB and try that

 

i got it to run finally. Im the only one doing this so i have been having to start the car and hop out quickly lol.
I need help on timing it now.
from my understanding i
-disconnect the esc, which is the wire plug that is more round and connects to the distributor, and start the car up.
when the car starts up i use the light on the timing gun to make sure the stripe engraved in the dampener shows up on the '0' mark that sits directly over the dampener correct?

then what?

 

found a diagram on here and retraced all wires, capped off anything i saw that isn't connected, like deleted items.

 

How did you get it to run?

To set timing, disconnect ESC wire with engine off, start car, set the line on the balancer to 6 degrees Before the zero mark on the cover (engine spins clockwise looking from the front)
Once set, turn car off and tighten distributor, then start car and make sure it's still 6 degrees. After you verify this, turn car off, plug ESC wire back in and reset your computer to clear codes.

 

OK i disconnected the ESC (behind the strut mount on the passenger side) tan wire, right?

Still giving me problems. here is another video of what its doing. I also have some questions regarding the headers. I bought the headers with the AIR tubes but capped off the open flanges. would that cause insufficient airflow?

Im really torn here, i have no idea what else could be done and when i do get time to tinker with it, its in small spurts so its taking me forever.

 

heyeveryone,

just wanted to keep this post updated, because i still haven't had success. the car is also far away at the moment so i can't just go to my car as i please.

anyways, I noticed the cap that goes over my distributor was extremely corroded. I bought a new cap and replaced, then tried again. no success.
I bought a new coil pack, its called street fire performance coil made by MSD.
I installed the coil pack and tried to start it again, hoping to keep the motor running. it still stumbled on its face and would only turn over a few times and then choke out.

this time i kept hearing a loud popping (arching) noise as soon as the car dies, coming from the distributor. this has never happened before so I'm guessing its good that I'm getting better spark? or this is a bad thing, like i said its never happened until i bought the new coil pack.

since all these pieces sat on a shelf in a garage for over a year, I'm guessing all my electronic components are corroded to crap?

My next step is to just replace the distributor, i still have the stock one. what surprises me it that the distributor actually fits back there…i could of sworn that i read somewhere that the large stock cap wont work.

during the dozen times I've tried to start it up to set timing, it actually ran smooth for a few seconds then dies out again. but every other time I've tried to start it up it hardly keeps idle at all. i repeatedly re set TDC and dropped dizzy in to ensure that my marks are lined up and not 180 degrees backwards.

really stumped now.