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Tech / General EngineIs your car making a strange sound or won't start? Thinking of adding power with a new combination? Need other technical information or engine specific advice? Don't see another board for your problem? Post it here!
Whatever pan you choose to use I’d say the 87 one piece rear main would be the best. Test fit and rotate the engine over. You might have to clearance the pan by the rails for a 383.
Whatever pan you choose to use I’d say the 87 one piece rear main would be the best. Test fit and rotate the engine over. You might have to clearance the pan by the rails for a 383.
Good idea to check. I know the eagle crank and rods had miles of clearance in the 1997 2 bolt 1 piece block.
IIRC (If I Remember Correctly), I think that pan will clear the K member. However the other area to watch out for is the "notch" or tunnel for the y-pipe to pass through between the pan and K member. You don't want your oil being cooked because the oil pan is sitting on the exhaust pipe.
I have 2 vague pictures of the 305 oil pan. To me it looks almost the same as the 350 vortec truck pan. But I could be way off and like you said, the notch could be not correct. The bottom sump on the truck pan does look a bit larger.
Last edited by 89fast5oh; Apr 4, 2021 at 08:51 PM.
It looks like the difference between the M55 and M155 pumps is the inlet diameter. M55 = 5/8", M155 = 3/4". Guys online are saying that the change occurred around 1994-1995. I have an M55 pump in my 4 bolt main 1997 L31 383 stroker, with a Kevko 2001 stock appearing pan and their pickup tube kit for it. I got rid of all the stock truck windage tray / main cap hardware mess, then ARP studded it and had it align honed. The truck pan was in no shape to be reused anyways.
