I have a 88 gta
tpi 305 t5
I have a current draw on the car when every thing is off
I have a amp meter and tester
it's 0.01 amps nothing on
it kills my brand new battery in 2 weeks
I did the hook up my meter and took out every fuse 1 by 1 and nothing went to 0
I even did the relays on firewall nothing
maybe the battery is defective?? It's brand new
I can't leave the negative hooked up
I did the the battery in the car all winter unhooked and it did not loose 1 amp
it was still full
has this happened to tpi guys

 

I have a 88 gta
tpi 305 t5
I have a current draw on the car when every thing is off
I have a amp meter and tester
it's 0.01 amps nothing on
it kills my brand new battery in 2 weeks
I did the hook up my meter and took out every fuse 1 by 1 and nothing went to 0
I even did the relays on firewall nothing
maybe the battery is defective?? It's brand new
I can't leave the negative hooked up
I did the the battery in the car all winter unhooked and it did not loose 1 amp
it was still full
has this happened to tpi guys

 

Not everything passes through the fuse box under the dash. This is the full GM service manual for your car. There's a lot of info to thumb through but it has all the power distribution diagrams so you can get some ideas what to look at next.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...ce-manual.html

 

.01 amps = 10 milliamps

Pretty much, a normal amount of current for a car with EFI and an ECM and an alternator to draw.

A typical car battery has a capacity of around 60 amp-hours. That's literally a count of the number of electrons it has available inside (the # of lead and acid molecules and atoms in it). That means then, it can sustain a drain of 1 amp for 60 hours, 60 amps for 1 hour, 3 amps for 20 hours, .1 amps for 600 hours, .01 amps for 6000 hours, etc. The product of the number of amps, times the number of hours, of available current, is somewhere around 60. Battery mfrs never rate their batteries that way anymore though, they use "cold cranking amps" except for deep-cycle marine batteries, not sure why but it definitely obscures the truth. I hate it.

However all that might be...

There are 168 hours in a week. Roughly 8760 hours in a year. At .01 amps, your 60 amp-hour battery should therefore last around 8 months (6000 ÷ 8760 = .685, × 12 = a shade over 8) A .01 amp draw isn't going to kill your batt in 2 weeks.

You have something else going on. It's simple physics and numbers.

I recall years ago, in 1985 to be exact, a friend of mine bought a brand new 85 Vette. He lived, worked, and went to school all within about 2 blocks, so he mostly walked or rode his bike all summer, rather than dealing with parking. Same thing happened to him... batt would go dead in acoupla weeks, even though an ammeter (he and I were both electronics technicians back then, me at a radio & TV station and him at the local police/fire dept) showed like 15 mA (.015 amps). He took it back to the dealer about 4 or 5 times, on a hook, and they kept telling him he was full of excrement. Finally one day he happened to have his ammeter (Simpson 260) hooked up and was watching it and scratching his head, and all of a sudden, the meter SLAMMED to the right, stayed that way for maybe 10 seconds, then dropped back to its normal 15 mA. He ended up borrowing a strip chart recorder and hooked it up to his meter, and lo and behold, about every 20 minutes or so, it would do that. He kept the recorder, and started pulling fuses, and when none of them eliminated the problem, started disconnecting the high-power optional accessories like power windows, power mirrors, etc. from the junction block where they plug in. When he got to the power seats, voilà! it disappeared. He ended up taking out the seats, and found that the wiring harness had been mis-routed at the factory, chafed through in the driver's seat track; the main power wire to the system was pinched; and when power was applied to it, it created a dead short with a VERY high current draw. It was downstream of the system's circuit breaker, which would trip after a few seconds of this, then reset itself after 20 minutes, and just keep on cycling that way until the batt was dead. Repairing the damaged wire and properly routing harness cured it.

Now, your car isn't a Vette so its wiring is different from his, in its details; but that's most likely the same kind of thing you have going on. You'll probably have to hook up an analog meter to it, and watch it for A LONG time. Or maybe, go get you one of those cheeeeep Wyze motion-activated cameras that notifies your phone when it sees something move which you can then watch, and point that at your analog meter, and see if you have a similar situation. I suspect that's what you'll find. Then, all you have to do, is track it down.

 

I did down load this
I'm waiting
ty

 

ok great info
it wasn't 2 weeks more like 2 to 6 months
now that I think about it
I'm gonna go hook up the terminal and watch it for some time
I'll let you know
ty very much

 

6 months wouldn't be unreasonable then. The battery wouldn't be drained FLAT DEAD maybe, but maybe wouldn't have enough nads left to turn the motor over.

2 months is too short a time though. I'd think, from experience, it should hold out for 4 months bare minimum.

All the same, the intermittent-drain exercise might prove worthwhile.

 

my amp draw is on a 10amp scale
0.01

 

When the car was my mom's driving daily she left the window down up at the cottage and it downpours rain all night.
water got into the power lock switch and made it green It would try to make the locks go on and off all day untill it killed battery
so I unhook the fuse and solved the problem but the horn didn't work anymore same fuse
so years after 15 at least I had the door apart and notibed the a switch was green and so I cleaned it sandpaper pit that create on and out the fuse back in and to this day it worked
still does
every thing works it's a mint car that she inhereted to me
and it makes me nuts
so I'm just gonna keep my eye on the level
ty again
if it keeps acting dumb I'll be back