I started the thread below when trying to make sense out of how best to plan for an engine upgrade. I ended up just slowly collecting parts and saving the best I could. I am now to the point when I am no longer trying to decide the order of my build, but to decide the exact components and tuning of variables for my new engine build.

Original Thread:
Order of Engine Upgrades? Heads, then Cam? - Page 4 - Third Generation F-Body Message Boards

Other background discussed in:
(Not So) Bare Minimum to Give Autox or Track Racing a Shot? - Page 4 - Third Generation F-Body Message Boards

So now I wanted to share my plans and discuss the inevitable topics I have not even though about before my short block arrives from Smeding in 3-5 weeks!

As the title mentions, this may be a slightly different build than some, since I still like to drive the car on the road on nice days. I drive to and from work, which is about a 50 mi round trip consisting of rural two-lane roads, and highways. I also try to compete in at least one autocross event over the summer months, so I am looking more for mid-range power, and not necessarily the highest top end as you would for a drag car.

Current Build Plan:
Parts To Re-Use:
- Holley Stealth Ram Intake with dual 58mm throttle body
- D.U.I. Distributor
- High Flow Water Pump
- Power Master Starter (Good for 11:1 CR)
- SLP 3/4" Shortie Headers
- Thunder Racing Hardened Push Rods 7.200" Length. Have to check to see if the length will work...
- Billet aluminum adjustable fuel pressure regulator.
- 2600 RPM stall 9.5" converter in my reworked 700R4 trans. Have to see how long the trans lasts...
- Other front-end accessories/brackets, Alternator, Power steering pump, AC Compressor (Recently repaired and working AC)

Parts Purchased (ordered):
- AFR #1040 195 intake runner, street CNC heads with 65cc chambers.
- Smeding Short Block including full rotating assembly, oil pump, oil pan, timing set, timing cover, hydraulic roller lifters, dog bones, spider, and camshaft "450 HP" .544"/555" Lift W/1.6 rockers, 231°/236° Duration @ .050”, 111 LSA, 9cc 'D' shaped dished pistons to achieve a 10.46 CR with a 0.032 head gasket and resulting in a 0.042" quench.
- Comp Cams Ultra Pro Magnum 1.6 ratio 3/8" non-self aligning rockers
- South Bay 36 lb/hr injectors
- Cast Aluminum perimeter bolt tall valve covers.
- Replacement factory rubber engine mounts. (Considering getting the poly inserts...)

So, what other considerations do I need to think about as I prepare for my short block to arrive??? All other parts mentioned are already waiting in my basement... I'll continue to post more parts, and questions as they come up.

 

Why self aligning rockers? Those heads have guide plates. You can't use both

 

It will work good. Nice combo. Pushrods id measure once you set things up. I like the 90 deg mid lift method if the rockers geometry work with it, else kinda have to compromise to find min sweep.
id run an mls headgasket

 

I see a high flow water pump, you might need that or you might not. You might consider upgrading the radiator and fans if they're still stock. Also I think a trans cooler should be part of the package if it isn't already. Engine combo seems good and should do what you want.

Oh, maybe an accusump setup to handle oil starvation in corners, and you should inquire about that oil pan and see if it's a road racing spec or what.

 

That was actually a typo. I was considering trying to use the self-aligning rockers I had which were the exact same as the ones I got, only with the aligning tabs, but I found a good deal and just bought the right ones...

My plan is to run the Mahle 5776 head gaskets that are multi layer stainless and graphite.

I'll have to read up on the 90 deg mid lift method, if you have a link to worthwhile reading please share, or I'm sure I can just google it.

I do have a dedicated trans cooler and a gauge, I put it in after the torque converter upgrade. I already have the high flow water pump so I'll use it. I also have underdrive pulleys on the engine, that I'm trying to decide if I should reuse or go back to stock. It was one for the crank and one for the alternator, so I suspect it just slows down my water pump... With higher compression, I figure I want full flow...

I'm running the stock radiator and dual electric fan set up, but honestly it seems to cool pretty well, at least at this point. I have a 180 deg high flow stat, with a couple bleeder holes drilled in it, and a switch that turns the secondary fan on at 205 and off at 190. I can always play with the fan settings when I reburn my prom chip too. I forget where I have those set.

I'll have to look into what kind of oil pan they use. I suspect a pretty plain stamped steel one...

 

There had been a discussion about this in the previous thread. Seems some builders (not necessarily the OP) that are fine with both. I'm of a contrary opinion in that while not the self-aligning rocker and guide plate combined specifically, I had encountered pushrod binding between the guide plate and cylinder head when the OEM guide holes were not enlarged. Can't say exactly what the consequences were other than two sets of witness marks on the pushrods but my guess is that it didn't do the valve guides any favours.

 

x2 on the mid-lift method.

 

I have a Canton 15-244. Fully baffled with extra capacity.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ctr-15-244

I also paired it with their spec oil pump pickup.

 

That valve train article is a bit of a tough read, going to go sit down and finish reading it now...

Regarding oil pans. I suspect the oil pan that is included in the seal up kit from Smeding is probably pretty plain Jane... This whole build started out low buck, but I have found certain details that were worth spending a few extra dollars on, so I keep upgrading incrementally. For autocross where I'm only doing one lap at a time, is a specialized oil pan really all that critical? Is there any way to modify a standard oil pan if you have a welder and some knowledge, or is that not worth the risk?

Here is a picture of the oil pan they include on the long block from Smeding, I suspect it is the same as the one I will be getting, but I can call to confirm. I was planning to call anyway, they are showing a 10% off black Friday sale, so I want to see if that can be applied to my order...

Listing for the long block: 383" Long Block – Smeding Performance
Listing for the short block I have on order: 383" Short Block – Smeding Performance

 

The key take away from that paper, unless the history of roller rockers is something of interest to you, is this diagram.



This is all measured with the running spring installed (no checking spring required) and the rocker arm sitting in the rocker stud. It doesn't require tightening. Simply sitting loose.
Reference is off the top of the retainer however this is assuming that the retainer top is flat and not contoured as mine are. That's a different matter although I've developed a work around if you need direction there.
Then measurements are made to the appropriate roller axis'.
You will require an adjustable pushrod for these measurements however.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-7702-1

 

I got a call back from Smeding today, after I left my message Wed afternoon. (Very happy with their communication!) He confirmed that There is a small baffle tray over the pickup tube, but nothing more substantial than that in the oil pan. He said for my autocross one lap at a time, should be perfectly sufficient. If I was planning to do more road racing which was many straight laps, then an oil pan with more baffling and an oil scraper would be more critical.

Also, what is the verdict the underdrive pulleys? Should I be continuing to use them, or am I better off putting my factory pullies back on, to up the flow of my cooling system. I believe that is the only thing that was actually underdriven... Since the underdrive pulley kit came with a crank and alternator pulley. With my 10.5 CR, I'm thinking I'm going to want all the cooling I can get. Especially if I want to avoid upgrading my radiator.

 

Regarding the oil pan, I went with the Canton for several reasons. Racing was first and foremost and while the idea of road racing was in the back of my mind, the Canton pan has several baffles and trap doors to keep the pickup submerged. It's surprising what happens in drag racing too as a decent launch will push the oil quite steeply up the backside of the pan. I wanted insurance there. I also like the notion of increased capacity. If I wanted to, I could drop a quart and get the oil further from the spinning crankshaft. That, and along with the built in scraper, helps reduce the HP sucking windage. It also provided a location for an oil temperature sender which I find very useful.
Plus it looks cool!

As the for the underdrive pullies, I'm arguably making similar power to you. My cooling arrangement is an aftermarket aluminum rad (Griffin 3" two core), factory single electric fan and standard pullies. I've a 180° t-stat and have no difficulties keeping the engine at that temperature under normal operating conditions. Mind you, I can't say I spend any time stuck in traffic on a super hot summer day. Not lately anyway.
At one time there was a switch in the P/S cylinder head which as on at 195°, off at 180° (IIRC). Presently I have a Dakota Digital temperature controller that I can program to work with the temperature sender for the AutoMeter gauge (for fan control). Same results though. Admittedly, doing hot laps at the drag strip will get both the coolant and oil temperatures a little elevated but in those instances, I can shut the car down but keep the fan drawing air through the rad with an override switch that I incorporated. After a few minutes of that, a restart will pull the coolant temps down by a dozen degrees or more. The oil can stay hot as there's an advantage to that. Or so I'm told.

 

The build/swap has begun!

 

So, are you saying that when you get a deeper oil pan, you actually put the same amount of oil in the engine, and just let the oil level be that much lower? I understand the concept of windage and oil shear if the rotating assembly is actually submerged in oil, but can you make that oil level change without having to change anything else. Is everything in a SBC really forced lubrication, so as long as your suction tube is submerged, and not sucking air, during operation, you're fine? Can you switch to these deeper/additional capacity oil pans without changing your oil pickup?

Secondly, while looking into oil pan options, like possibly the one below, I am thinking twice about the shape. Our thirdgen cars have the big cast K member and the crossover pipe from the drivers side header that fit very closely up to the oil pan. Will this oil pan fit my car? Will the stock style oil pan from Smeding fit my car, or am I going to have to start checking and modifying once I receive the short block???

1991 CHEVROLET CAMARO Summit Racing SUM-G3603 Summit Racing™ Oil Pans | Summit Racing

As for the cooling and under drive pulleys. I also have a manual fan switch in the cabin to turn on one of my two electric fans as needed. I do keep the car idling between runs, since it seems to help cool things down better and you need to maintain temperature for subsequent runs. I don't like the idea of shutting off an engine and letting the heat soak in. Then fire it up with a blast of cool water from the radiator.

I forgot the underdrive pulleys also slow down my power steering in addition to the water pump and ac, would there be any benefit to feel or performance getting that back up to full speed? I put these underdrive pulleys on many years ago, as a teen, and in recent years, they just don't seem like a smart way to try to get a couple extra HP, at the expense of other system functionality... I'm leaning towards going back to stock pulleys.

Another question for you all. Am I going to need to remove the radiator to pull the engine? Since I plan to use the tap holes in the front and back of the heads, I'll have to pull all the accessories off before pulling the engine. It looks to me like there should be enough room there...

Also, will I have to fully remove the hood to pull the engine, or can I just remove the lift struts, and swing the hood beyond its normal range of motion so it rests against a box or something on my windshield. I am trying to plan out as many steps as I can ahead of time, I don't have a lot of extra hands to help with things and removing the hood fully looks like a two or three people job, plus then you have to realign it when you put it back on...

 

Simple question. What water neck did you go with? I am preparing to install my Holley Stealth Ram that I bought from a member here a few years ago.

Thanks,

Fred

 

I can't answer for raptere but, I used a stock TBI water neck. With a factory radiator, I only needed a stock upper hose too.

 

I bought that a long time ago, but it looks a lot like this one...mine is a 90 deg.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-371101

I will say, it just bearly interfeared with the idle air control valve body, so I had to sand a hair off the water neck.... You may be better off finding a slightly lower profile one.

 

Yes, with a deeper pan and the appropriate pickup, the level of the oil will be further away from the rotating assembly. Of course the option is there to add an additional amount of oil if you wish to.
Here's a link to three oil pans. The Summit you listed, the Canton I have and generic GM issue.
https://www.summitracing.com/compare
You'll notice that there's more depth on the Summit pan and the sides are not kicked out as they are on the Canton. The Summit gets additional capacity (6 vs 5) although my guess on that is it's because with a conventional pickup, the screen will be a half inch higher. It would take an additional quart to keep it submerged. It's suggested (via the Summit comments) that a pickup with greater depth be used. The idea is to keep the pickup screen within about 1/4" of the bottom. If you add a 1/2" of pan depth overall, a stock pickup will be too far from the bottom. In the case of the Canton, the extra capacity comes from the kickouts, and as the depth is OEM, the oil level is lower with 5 quarts. (If that makes sense).
As for the exhaust fitment, that's a tough call and one I can't answer. I do know, back in the day when I got one of my first 3rd gens on the road, I used shorty headers and the matching y-pipe (Edelbrock) with an OEM pan. I've since moved on to long tubes and the Canton pan fitment isn't an issue even with the sizable kickouts.
A quick note regarding long tubes vs short headers and the associated y-pipe, if want to see all your HP's my suggestion is to source some LT headers and have 2 into 1 pipe built. And a sizeable "cat back" exhaust too. A 3" single will diminish your potential output.

 

Shutting down the engine and opening the hood while maintaining fan function is fairly common practice. It's not like you're injecting ice water into a boiling block when you re-fire. I've seen about a 20° swing depending on how long the fan has been running and the ambient of the day. There's a further advantage to those with an electric water pump is that they can have complete coolant circulation and reach a target temperature for the next pass.
But to each their own on that.

As for removing the rad: Yes. But I've too much invested in mine to have an errant engine poking a hole in it. There's room to be gained for sure with it out.
As for removing the hood, I always have. Until the last time that is.



I didn't have an assistant (and the hood too is also expensive to risk damaging if removing it on my own) so for the first time in two dozen engine swaps I bought a manifold lifting plate and just barely got the engine in the bay with the hood in place.





It's also one of few times I've done the engine without the transmission hanging off the back. In my personal experience, and there are many with a contrary opinion, it's easier as an engine/transmission assembly rather than maneuvering the transmission in from below. Especially so if it's being done without a car lift.

 

I think there are always going to be way I could get more HP, or a more bulletproof engine. That said, this started out a low buck build, I don't want to go too crazy, or I may have to put things on pause, to wait for funds to build back up. I can always change things up later.

I'm going to let the current oil pan ride, unless I start seeing abnormal things happening with my oil pressure. Regarding the exhaust, I have no plan to significantly change my exhaust set up. I was under the impression the SLP 1.75" headers were still pretty desirable. The intermediate pipes from the headers to the Y are 2.25", and yes I have a 3" catback. I am supprised to hear that setup will still be limiiting power. I could possibly consider switching to a 4" catback, but my Y pipe, which is an old flowmaster one that I don't think is sold anymore, has only a 3" outlet...

I got the upper clips off my hood struts and raised the hood up just before vertical with a broom stick. It gives a lot better access. When the time comes to pull the engine, I'll have to decide if I want to remove the hood all together, or maybe just have someone hold it vertical while I lift the engine out. I also see in your pictures you pull and replace the engine without the headers in place. Would you suggest the same for my shortie headers. The bolts are relatively tight to get to in the engine bay, so if possible, I would prefer to install them on the engine stand...

My concern with removing the radiator, is that I then need to disconnect my trans cooler too, and I would prefer not to have to drain and refill that too if I can help it... Again, I may have to wait till I'm really ready to start lifting and see If I need the room or not. Maybe I put some thin plywood in there to protect the radiator during the lift.

 

I'd hate to be your only bit of guidance in this endeavor however each bit of subject matter that comes up is something I can relate to direct experience. So at least what I have to say is genuine although it may not all fit your particular situation.

Regarding your oil pan: I'd do the same and use what's been supplied. Keep an eye on oil pressure as you run the engine through its paces as you mentioned. Use good oil of a suitable viscosity. Regarding engine oil, and break in oil in particular, I can direct you to a great resource for information there. Short story is to run a dedicated break-in oil. That you've roller lifters isn't the big player here. It's imparting the qualities of break-in oil formulations into the dissimilar metals of your engine. It'll pay long term dividends. Then a quality synthetic after that. For a filter, in case you're going to ask, a Baldwin B279 has come highly recommended. It's my go to now.

As far as exhaust goes, the generally accepted rule of thumb is that an entire exhaust system must be able to provide ~2.2 CFM of flow per engine HP output. So if you've a 450 HP potential, then 900+ CFM is your target. That'd be tough to get with a smallish y-pipe and single 3" exhaust. What's more, as it is in my case, is that the single muffler becomes a significant choke point. It's a tough task to find a muffler that'll move that much air within splitting your eardrums.
Keep in mind that the flow to HP curve is not linear. Gains are fewer as the flow reaches the optimum so keep that in consideration with future build plans. For me, racing days will be a matter of opening the cutouts and by-passing the balance of the exhaust altogether. Any time spent on the street will see WOT reduced output. But me and WOT on the street is a seldom occurrence.

I've excellent access to my header bolts when the engine is in place. I did make a unique tool to manage this although it consists of little more than a 3/8" 12 point box end wrench with a small extension fixed to it. Installation is easy too with one header in from the top and another from the bottom. If I may make a recommendation, go with a Remflex header gasket. Never ever have I had a leak as I've had with just about every other brand and composition that's out there.
I make it easier on myself and leave the starter and oil filter off until after the headers are in. I've also a smaller starter from a late model GM SBC. The old school GM Delcos are both massive and heavy. The later model Hitachi is a lightweight and has very little bulk.

Deal with the hood as you need to obviously. I've found that's it's not how high up you can go with the engine hanging off of the hook, but also how far back you can go. Prior to this manifold plate I used, I had four corners (at the heads) fixed to an engine leveler. The leveler simplified the drop in although it took up a lot of space vertically and horizontally between the crane hook, the hood and the engine. It absolutely necessitated the hood being removed. Your mileage may vary as they say.

I get it on your rad that's fitted with transmission lines. That does add an additional element to it's removal (I've an external transmission cooler so that bit doesn't exist for me. A cooler is something else which I also highly recommend). Be cautious is all I can say here.

 

Thank You.

Fred

 

Thank You.

Fred

 

Hey Kevin, I really appreciate all the tips you've been sharing, I've been trying to do some of my own research on each topic as well and make a much more informed decision than I would otherwise. A lot of decisions were made and parts ordered before I even started this and the previous thread, so in some cases I'm able to use your tips and order or act accordingly, but in others, I need to work with what I have and make the best of it for now. Whatever I end up with it will be way better than what I'm running now, and I can always change or tweak things later... I've been waiting about 6 years to even pull the trigger on this project, so I'm just glad it's really happening now, even if it is not totally perfect right from the start, as long as it's serviceable, same or better than it was before, and reliable.

Smeding specifically suggests HR5 Mineral 10W-40 oil, I plan to give that a try for operation. My short block has been dyno tested and broken to some extent at Smeding before shipping out. Do you still suggest running some special run in specific oil for my first fill? I also though hydraulic roller camshafts minimized the importance of run in oils. Is this not the case? I'll have to look into that filter, I generally use some variant of the mid length SBC filter. Not the new short one, but not the massive truck one.

Driven Racing Oil 03806-6 Driven Racing Oil HR5 Hot Rod Motor Oil | Summit Racing

Adding info about Baldwin filters: (Honestly, I though Wix used to be all the rage) I do generally prefer easily accessible filters, which at first glance the Wix may be...)
These all have the same thread, OD, and Length. Just the filtration and features differ.



I think my current exhaust will stay the way it is for now. If I find out somehow that it is really holding me back on power, I will cross that bridge when I get there. I do have the way old magnaflow muffler design, which I couldn't even find a pic of online, but it is a direct straight through design for one outlet, then the other just has a small, curved piece of pipe inside the muffler to direct some of the exhaust flow out the other adjacent exit. Seems pretty open to me...

Have a picture of the header bolt tool you made, maybe it is something I have to fab up. I do alredy have my bolts, all hex head, and I purchased the suggested gasket from my AFR heads, which is a felpro 1404. Unless there is a significant reason not to, it fits the ports nicely, so I'll probably just use it.

I had a powermaster denso style starter for a long time, like 15 years, but I found out it was causing a weird starting issue (Though it may have had to do with rust/oxidation building up between the starter and the block) and recently replaced it with a new powermaster #9100 Hitachi style starter. They are both MUCH smaller than the factory one I had to remove in pieces way back when. I'll probably install it on the engine stand for convenience. Anything I can do standing instead of on my back, I would greatly prefer it!

I also got an engine hoist with the load leveler. My plan is to put the chains and brackets against the front and back of each head I do realize the leveler does add some height. Hopefully I can set it up in such a way to minimize that. I think the leveler should make things much easier and predictable when it comes to removing and reinstalling the engine. I just last year pulled the transmission to change the torque converter, and have what is actually marketed as a motorcycle lift that works with a screw and drill or impact that I use to lower the trans. I plan to do the same thing as last time.

I think I mentioned I do have a dedicated trans cooler, but it is plumbed in series with the one in the radiator. If it comes down to it, I can try to find a way to pull the fittings and plug them while I remove the radiator to do the swap, but we'll see if that is needed...

 

This pan is crap, so much so that I'm pulling my engine over Christmas break to finally replace it. The flange is about the same robustness as a Walmart brand beer can, and the holes for the bolts look like they were punched by hand. I've got a Canton racing pan on the way with their gasket and stud kit.

 

Research is key. Saying that then you might be interested in these two threads from Speed-Talk.
The first is regarding engine oil. Both the break in variety and what is suggested to use every day.

https://www.speed-talk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=67140

Pay attention to what RDY4WAR has to say. Seems his specialty is tribology and as such has some great insights.
This is not to discount Smeding's suggestion. Far be it from me to say otherwise. I do however question why such a heavy viscosity.

The other thread is about oil filters.
Also informative.

https://www.speed-talk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=68220

Both are a long read and the typical amount of BS seeps in but if you can get past that, there's certainly something to be learned.

More to follow...

EDIT: Corrected the link to the engine oil thread. I'll blame the error on my phone...!

 

Thanks for the warning. I had a similar issue with a set of valve covers, though they were cast, had to send them back. I used to think summit Brad was a safe way to save a few bucks on a rebranded item, but lately it seems like they are farming out cheap Chinese knock offs...

Im pretty sure I'll need a new 255 lph fuel pump to support the power this engine will make. I was thinking of going with the summit brand instead of Walbro, but now I'm not sure it's worth the risk for 15% savings... They look identical, but who knows??? Anyone use one?

 

I would agree not to buy Summit brand parts. Their name brand parts are good. Some years ago, I bought a Summit brand two-piece timing chain cover. It was crap and had to remove it before I installed the motor.

Fred

 

I edited my last post to correct the link to the engine oil study.
Here it is again just the same.

https://www.speed-talk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=67140

I get into a conversation with Mike Jones of Jones Cams. He's supplied my cam and lifters for this latest lump of mine. The topic of ZDDP comes up and it's relative merits. That's on page 2 and 3. Then there's further conversation regarding specific brands and the chemical composition. Things I was not aware before I decided to take real interest in the best lubrication for this little 357 I assembled.
The thread tends to wander as I mentioned but there are real gems in there and some truly excellent data. Also as mentioned, RDY4WAR provides some great content.

I've a spread sheet complied, or rather a collection of spread sheets, that lay out what oil has what.

FWIW @raptere , Smeding's recommendation is high up the list.

 

Making some real progress!

But how the heck do you fit the driver's side header out???

 

simple. Leave it there. When you put everything back together, set the engine in place with the hoist still hooked up. Pick up the engine just enough and slide the header back in.

 

Ha, I certainly had that thought, and may need to. I was planning to remove my air tubes before pulling the engine, but I dont have room to have the engine on the stand and my wifes car in the garage at the same time...

 

Decisions. Decisions!

 

Ended up being able to get that d/s header out by disconnecting the upper end of the steering shaft. Came out quite easily then...

I think I have everything disconnected, trans is on my motorcycle jack ready to be lowered, next step unbolt the engine from the trans and lift it out. I'm hoping I can do it without having to disconnect the dtiveshaft and torque arm, that bracket is a pain in the butt...

 

You may have better luck than me however I found that the transmission had to be lowered substantially so as to gain access to the bellhousing bolts. I've got a 3 foot extension and a swivel socket for just this purpose.Then again, I've so much practice with these re and re's that my torque arm technique has evolved to the point where it's removal is now pretty straightforward. It's simple too in a way having an aftermarket arm. The arm can be disconnected from the rear axle bracket so access is somewhat more convenient.
That said, and having done this twice last fall, I'll say it's far easier to haul the engine and transmission out as an assembly.
YMMV.

 

Yea, I just dropped the trans last year to install my new torque converter. The long extensions and swivels are a must. I plan to go through about the same process.

Air tube free, is the way to be. Looks cleaner alredy, just have to prep a bit more, weld up the homes then paint it. I'm thinking about doing some minor port matching too, the inside welds protrude pretty far into the tube... the felpro 1404 I have fit the AFR exhaust ports almost perfectly.

 

It's always good to be making progress.
When do you expect the delivery of your new shortblock?

(PS: Add a space or two between pictures. It's easier on the eyeballs)

 

Smeding said it was itially on schedule for the 4 to 6 week delivery, but last Fri was 4 weeks, and they said they are still waiting on my special pistons, so hopefully those come in soon...

Headers are welded up, and I ground down some of the highest points on the interior welds between the tube and flange. The speed shop I had install the headers years ago had to "clearance" the drivers side header to clear the steering shaft... I think they did a lousey job of it. Think there is a way to make this look any better while I have them out, or do I just leave it, don'twant to make them any worse. I also only have a Mapp gas torch, no oxygen acetylene...

 

I've also gotten started port matching my intake base. Not beautiful, but it could be worse too... Should be functional.

 

Yikes, I got my walbro fuel pump today so i found and watched the video on YouTube about putting it in. There is a lot to it!, I may just do that as a separate project after I'm done with the engine. I know I won't make full power till I do.

 

That's surprising to me. The reputation of the old SLP headers is that they did not have these kind of fitment issues. I may be in for some surprises when I go to install mine.

 

every set of 1 3/4 SLPs have needed some clearance. I got the tube warm with a propane torch and massaged it with a deadblow. Not all that bad to do if you have a little bit of patience. My surprise was the p/s header had a flange that was warped from the original welding. I filed the highest spots but if it doesn't seal this time then I'll have to have the whole thing machined flat.

 

I'm planning on using the same air filter assembly, though I'm not sure how much HP it can handle. I did see on here somewhere you can trim this weird ledge in the air track of the filter y pipe, to improve flow. By cutting it away you end up with an air leak inderneith, so I did a little "plastic welding" to seal it off and reinforce it, with a soldiring iron and zip ties.

 

There a couple of threads about modifying the TPI intake assembly.
Most notably from Chad Speier (https://speierracingheads.com/index.html)
His rework is at:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/fabr...ir-intake.html
Another thread from many years ago was this one:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tpi/...pi-camaro.html

The short story is to get the intake tubing to a 4" diameter which would be what you need for your HP expectations. Both threads demonstrate how the "box" gets dissected and material added to make it "thicker". That allows for the larger diameter hose as well as increasing the internal capacity.
The baffling that precedes the filters (below the rad support) is also cut away.
Speier said that he flow benched his creation and found no restriction with the OEM twin filter elements although K&N's were used. I was a little surprised at that but then again Chad is a cylinder head porter by trade and I suspect he knows a thing or two about CFM.
He went a step further and built his own ram air tubing to feed the filter cases. All in all an excellent project and result.

I will say that the OEM 3" intake tube and the restricted box are going to curtail your output. Potentially anyway. Much like the smallish exhaust won't let the engine really stretch it's legs.

More than anything, CFM notwithstanding, it's the supply of outside air to the induction that's vital. An effective CAI is worth it's weight in gold. This is something I'm presently wresting with. I've the old school 14" open element air filter and it's allowing air that's passed through the rad, and further heated under hood with the headers and is making for an unreasonably high inlet air temperature. I've a cowl induction hood that I've yet to seal up but I've also thought about how to get one of these modified TPI intakes to fit with a round filter case.

 

Got confirmation yesterday, they got my pistons and the crank is on the grinder. Should ship on Monday! Not sure what shipping is going to look like with Christmas though...

With everything being said I should be investing in umproving my intake filtration setup or exhaust, but looking in the engine bay and seeing the old rusty k member, made me think twice... plus it would give better access / room for my other work. Plus with the engine out it's right there... so I bought one of UMI's road race k members! Really nice looking part! And I think ~25 lb weight savings.

I pulled the electric fan assembly and put three layers of cardbord on the radiator. I may remove the water pump first, but i think that should be enough room to get the engine out...



Tonight I plan to rebuild my steering gearbox and swap all the lines and hoses. I'll have an all new front end by the time this is all done and over with.

 

You are NOT removing the water pump and crank pulley before you pull the engine?

 

I certainly can if it is advised, sounds like ypur saying it would be a very good idea to do... this is a learning experience for me. First time pulling an engine. Surprisingly I have not been able to find much in the way of a tutorial of do's and don'ts for pulling and reinstalling a whole engine.

 

Well, there are certainly many variations of a theme here.
Personally, I've done it many ways.
Complete engine and transmission as an assembly. Balancer, crank pulley and water pump fitted as access is so much easier while on an engine stand as opposed to leaning over the fender
Stripped down engine on its own.
And all points in between.
Last time around it looked like this. Not even a garage or driveway to work with!
As posted above.



All done with the hood on too although it was tight!
The biggest PITA was refitting the transmission and then getting the trans fill tube in place. This is one of the reasons I find the engine and transmission installed as an assembly much easier. It does however necessitate the removal of the hood and radiator to allow for an engine hoist leveler.

 

Your new engine is on the way. That means that you will be removing the water pump and crank pulley for reuse.
Why not do it now? You will gain extra room in front of the engine. You said that you are pulling the engine only.
What I see happening is the water pump pulley slamming right into your radiator and 3 layers of cardboard when
the engine breaks free from the transmission and torque converter.
Using this method, I hope you have planned ahead by supporting the transmission (once the engine and transmission separate, there is nothing left holding up the front of the transmission), devising a method of keeping the torque converter in place on the transmission input shaft (or that will fall off and slam onto the ground), and you had better have some kind of pan at the ready to catch the transmission fluid that will pour out all over the place, and right where you need to be laying on the ground.
Good luck.

 

These cars have long front ends. Notice in skinny z's pic, it looks like he has an extension added to his hoist (normally they stop at the end of the orange bar). That makes the weight of the engine past the hoist's front wheels, and I imagine that he has to have a couple of heavy friends weighing the back of the hoist down. Without that extension, that engine is definitely going to "pop" forward towards the radiator once it separates. Hopefully you still have all 10 of you fingers when you are done!