Hi,
i have been having problem with my car with the engine being seized. It is a carb 350. I got it to turn with difficulty. Once it turned (not easily), i reinstalled the spark plugs and belts. Tried to start it, it turned briefly, but seized again. When I removed spark plugs again, fuel poured out of plug hole number 8.

About 2 months ago I have cleaned the carb floats and reset the needles and floats before installing. Thats when the problem started. Also, I needed to change oil and filter bc gasoline mixed with oil at the oil pan.

Any recommendation is appreciated.

thanks!

 

With that much fuel.... Sounds like a fuel leak from carb that is pooling in cyl #8

 

Might put a new needle in it if float is adjusted properly. Any electric fuel pump on this setup that could be producing to much fuel pressure?

 

Thank you!

i did change the mechanical fuel pump about 6 months ago. I have not drive the car much since never really ran well.

 

Do you think the mechanical fuel pump have to do anything with it?

 

Probably not the pump overpowering the needle. What model carb do you have ? Sounds like fuel leaked from the bowl while the engine was off and number 8 intake was open.

 

Oh I think you have a Holley, does it have holes in the bowl for settling float height?
id probably check the secondary float level. Not really a carb guy@sofakingdom has better advise .

 

Holley 670 street avenger. Does not have the small window to set the float. I set it up by removing the bowl and turn it upside down and making sure the float sat level across

 

"That's when the problem started."

There's a clue buried in there somewhere.

 

I removed the needle from the primary bowl and there was a piece of “rubber” inside the needle…probably the problem??

 

The tip of the needle or other debris?

 

Other debris…right at the open space area below the threads

 

Possibly maybe, for sure; not sure about probably. Might even be definitely maybe though.

Obviously a problem, no matter what else. Clear that and see if the flooding clears up too.

 

Replace your fuel filter, might even cut it open to see if any debris are in it . Could have rubber lines deteriorating.

 

will check filter too. Thanks.
checked the bowl and is clean of debris.

but the engine do not turn over nor by hand. I have spark plugs removed.

Just checked Starter and is fine.

 

Fuel accumulation in the rear cylinders is completely reasonable considering the engine installation orientation. Whichever cylinder(s) has the open or leaky valve will get it.

If fuel spent enough time in a bore there may be some rusting, and at the very least, no lubrication for those rings. Since the engine apparently did turn with the starter it is probably recoverable, and when it runs enough to get oil splash under the wrist pins the rings might be happier. In the interim, a few shots of oil in each hole to provide some initial lubrication may help, especially if the engine can be cranked with the spark plugs removed to distribute oil

Then comes the oil/filter change to get that that dishwater out of the sump, and then an accidental aluminum fire with a Holley as kindling.

 

Thanks!!
how much oil on that shot?
~1 tablespoon?

 

Probably bent the conrod-piston jammed against crank counterweight...Stock rods are quite soft and can be bent with the starter motor.

 

That's possible, along with several other mechanical failures from hydro-locking. Pin bosses in pistons can break, etc. We're not quite there in the diagnosis just yet. If the engine gets some kind of lubrication and can then be started, mechanical damage should reveal itself. pretty readily.

As for the oil volume, an ounce or so (tablespoon) is a good start just to get something slippery into the cylinders. Add it through the spark plug holes and keep the plugs out until the engine can be cranked sufficiently to build a little oil pressure.

 

I bent a rod in an SBC from water hydrolock-fix was new rod-weighed a few till i got one of same weight and used that one-pretty easy fix actually,with a hydralic press nearby to deal with the pin

 

Great I will go of lubricating first.
i will do that within the next day and report back to the group.
Thanks!

 

So finally i got to the car today. The engine turned over with cranking. However, gasoline still spilled thru spark plug hole #8.

What is in order to check next?

Again, thank you for any advice.

 

The source of the gasoline.

Gotta be the carb, one way or another. (unless you're feeding gasoline somewhere else?)

Is that how Holley says it should be set? Or is there perhaps a specific measurement between the top of the float to the top of the bowl, or some such?

 

I will research how to set the float for holley 670. Thanks!

i thought replacing needles for new ones since those are the ones for the last 5 years?

 

The 670 Street Avenger I had didn't have glass sight plugs but it did have brass plugs in the bowls to set the fuel level.
Are you saying that yours doesn't? Or perhaps that's been overlooked?

 

Thanks! It does look like the one in the picture and I have removed the side plug to observe the fuel level when adjusting the float. In my current situation, I can’t get the primary bowl fill with fuel to adjust because the fuel goes thru the spark plug hole #8 when I crank the engine. Therefore, I removed the primary bowl (secondary is fine), turn it upside down, and adjusted the float level until it was fully horizontal. I was hoping that it would be at least a good starting point, but it didn’t work.

 

Most Holley "performance" carbs are made like that.

Easiest way to set them and assure yourself (assuming of course that the carb isn't simply defective) is to lower the floats most of the way, like 5 turns on the needle valve or something (you can lower the secondaries even more, just don't bottom them out); crank up the car; and once running, slowly raise the floats until the fuel reaches the plug holes. The fuel should be slightly below the hole always. Primaries should dribble fuel when the car is gently nudged; secondaries should require more disturbance to get fuel to slosh out.

 

Are you saying that with the sight plug removed that you can't get the bowl to fill? And yet fuel is making its way to #8?
If that's the case, has this carburetor ever been disassembled? Sounds like there's something missing internally like the power valve.

 

You may have used the incorrect adjustment method. The Holey Performance (they never state "high" or "low") Carburetor is often shown to require manual inertial gravitational impulse adjustment, and sometimes repetitive linear machining (a.k.a., 4 lb. engineering hammer or sawzall). A few years ago I had a handful of "pretty" aluminum parts like skinny z showed above, and then in a coupla years I converted all but a couple of them into screen doors (or beer cans, wheels, or wherever low-grade aluminum alloy goes).



I've had lots of luck with Holley carbs, most of it bad. I must admit that most of it is my fault, primarily for choosing a Holley over a Carter or Rochester. I can get one to run "right" for about two days, or until the weather changes. I can set up an AFB/ThermoQuad/Quadrajet once and not have to touch it for three years or more. The comparatively crude design, band-aid remedies, and lack of compensation for variations in conditions makes them popular among those who have kits of jets, power valves, springs, plates, and gaskets who like to adjust their stuff about as frequently as I like to have a meal. Then again, that's just one opinion - 2¢.

You might get it to stop leaking fuel through a blown PV diaphragm, misplaced metering block gasket, porous casting, or wherever those carbs like to leak, and then clear out the intake. From that point, you might actually get the primary bowl to accept fuel if you get in the Holley parts semi-trailer and install a new inlet seat assembly, and then maybe even get the engine to run... for a few weeks... until the weather changes, or until the engine get warm or cold, of starts, or shuts off, or until anything varies from the barometric pressure, temperature, humidity, and light levels from the millisecond you get it "tuned" to run.

 

Thank you all! Finally, removed my bowl and meter block. The gasket of power valve was cracked and leaking. I replaced, crank the car and did not pour gas out of spark plugs holes, and the bowl actually filled with gas. Now I can see the float to adjust.
thanks again for all responses. Each of them were very helpful.

until the next one

 

Power valve. Bingo!
Thanks for updating.