Ok guys, will the headers being put on, give me 3'10ths of a second in the quater.??? They are such a pain for me to tackle right now..Turning 15.3's right now 2.0 second 60'....I want 14.99.......what other things are there that arent going to cost much..I am broke, but I want a 14.99...Have done most of the free stuff to the car....I know this is vauge, but im open to ideas....What did it take for you to break into the 14's..I know the faster you go the more it cost to get a 10th of a second, but I feel like im overlooking something obvious...My sig tell most of the story.BTW, just put the injector spacer on, havent ran it yet..Thanks for any and all replys..Tom

 

What kind of headers are they?

Chances are whatever they are you won't pull 0.300 of a second off from your ET!!!

 

Edelbrock TES, I have the rest of the exhaust on the car 3inch catback, er uh well with no cat....I didnt think they would....I just keep thinking ive forgotten something real easy...Thanks..Tom

 

Take the system out

 

Another good idea......I did the lastime, but couldnt tell much difference.........It will be out for sure at the next track run........Keepem coming guys..
Thanks, Tom

 

Yeah definitely get the system out! Yank the rear spare tire. Remove the rear seats, ditch the floormats, go on a diet, get rid of anyhing that doesn't need to be in the car like cd's, phone, blah bla bla... Rip the carpet out if it's in bad shape and You plan on eventually replacing it. Their pretty heavy. I'm about to yank mine so I can get rid of the floorpan surface rust that eventually accumulates on leaky t top cars. Up the psi to Your front tires,remove the air filters, throw icebags on the intake manifold between runs, trying adding a little timing, rig up a manual fan switch too.

These should all give you maybe a 1/10th or 2.

 

You gain about 1/10th for every 100 lbs. you drop in vehicle race weight. So, if you don't need the gas in the tank for traction, go with a light load.

As already suggested, yank the system.

Pump up your front tires to about 45 psi. Drop your rear tires to the minimum recommended, probably 22 psi.

Uncork the headers if you can.

Unbolt the front anti-sway bar. You can fully remove it or remove the endlinks and tie them up with wire. This allows better weight transfer / traction.

Pull your floormat out to ensure you are getting WOT.

Bump up base timing to 10 to 12 degrees.

Put in high octane gas.

Run a hotter plug if you run higher than normal octane, this helps ensure complete combustion. Index your plugs so the ground strap is facing the combustion chamber wall not the chamber itself. Cut back the ground strap so the tip is even with the outside of the center electrode, opening up the spark to the A/F mixture. Or run Bosch +2 or +4, then no worries.

Shallow stage, that means light the prestage light and very slowly creep in until you barely light the stage light. This gives you about 6 inches of rollout before the clock is triggered starting your timed run. That means you sort of get a running start.

That's all I can think of right now.

 

Thanks for the ideas guys will try alot of it...............Knew you guys would come thru for me.....................

 

Besides removing weight and the other free things, I think a good stall converter in the 2500-3000 range would make a big difference. How are your tires? Try to get your 60ft down. 1.8 60 ft would make a big difference. Work on traction and launching the car.

 

I think the headers, and then the system out, would give you enough to make it to 14.99. What are your trap speeds like? I think the TBI manifolds were pretty bad, I think the headers would fully utilize the rest of your free flowing exhaust.

 

I think the trap speeds were around 88 MPH......Am most definatly going to do the convertor ASAP.Right now the money is tight....Tires are pretty good, very little spin off the line....Had a bit more low end with the smaller exhaust Will try the tire pressure changes, and shallow stage, drop some weight (The box is about 70 lbs) I hope to get the headers on soon...You guys are the greatest........Thanks for the replys....14.99 here I come...Anyone think of other free ideas hit me with them....Tom

 

15.3 @ 88mph????? thats some impressive lowend.. my s-10 used to run 16.0's @ 88mph.. horrible 2.40 60ft.. good luck on the search for 14's

 

few things with what you said the first is the hotter plugs causing more complete combustion isn't true. the hotter plug is more of a self cleaning thing so the plug doesn't foul out. if your plugs aren't fouling out then running them hotter isn't going to do anything other then cause issues possibly with detonation
the other is the +4 plugs. they are a joke and more often then not will hinder all aspects of performance and longevity of the plug.

 

I've got dyno pulls that say I'm right.

 

With swirl port heads, I doubt it .

Keep the stock plugs and do not advance the timing past 4°. Your 187 heads are fast burn heads and will produce less power with high octane fuel and too much timing advance. On a stock LO3 set-up the swirl port heads make peak power with no more than 89 octane and 2 to 4 degrees advanced timing. The headers will make a HUGE difference in power as the LO3 manifolds are about as restrictive as they come. Combine that with the afore mentioned weight reduction and you should hit your 14.99. It won't hurt to run on a cool day either. I would lose the stage II chip and put the stocker back in. The stage II chip is likely making you slower by adding fuel and timing where it is not needed. Off the shelf TBI chips are a 100% dissaster and will make your car slower despite what your "butt dyno" tells you. FWIW, Dewey316 ran a 14.5 with his LO3 with nothing more than headers, 3.42 gears and chip work (DIY and not mail order). You should easily be able to duplicate this.

 

Cool, I hope your right, and I will try the chip swap, and let everyone know what happens....Tom

 

you have a dyno of what happened just by changing plugs and nothing else? this would be interesting to see. wanna scan it and show it online?

 

Whats the big deal about installing headers on one of these cars? Any set of Edelbrocks Ive owned took me no longer than an hour and a half to two hours to put on.

 

Your a much better mechanic than me...........It takes me an hour just to get the car jacked up, then another 30 minutes to get under it...I dont move very fast any more...BTW, I see you have a couple of Mopars...I bracket raced, a 68 Dodge Dart "GTS" came with a 383, 4 speed, kinda rare...Put a 440, 727, 4.30 gear....Ran mid 11's on Motor all day long...Drive to the track throw the slicks on, and run it...Loved that car, but had to seel it a number of years ago.....Take Care, and thanks for all the replys, Tom

 

since the thread was brought back up it reminds me I'm waiting for those dyno pulls that you said you have regarding plugs.

 

I would like to see that also....

 

Any 14"s yet?

 

I have not got to go race again, YET............sOON....I've been to watch, but just want to do a few other things to the car....I just have to get the time, and the money...I've got an LT1 cam, the TES headers, the Hochkis Connectors, and the 350 injectors....I would like to get the Edelbrock intake on, and the Corvette converter....I should be deep in the 14's with all this done...At least I hope so...The only thing is the chip tuning....Thanks for your intrest, and I will post as soon as I run the car again, Tom