Mods in Signature, just pretend like I have Hedman LT Headers and true duals.
What Hp/Tq do you estimate? What 1/4 mile time would you estimate?
Thanks!


More info:
Cam Specs: Not 100% These are the exact ones, but im pretty sure, its pretty mild lol
ENGINE: CHEVY 265-350 V8
RPM RANGE: 1500-5500

Duration at 0.006" Lift: Intake: 278° Exhaust: 288° Duration at 0.050" Lift: Intake: 204° Exhaust: 214° Lift at Cam: Intake: 0.280" Exhaust: 0.295" Lift at Valve: Intake: 0.420" Exhaust: 0.442" Timing at 0.050" lift: Open Close Intake: 5° ATDC 29° ABDC Exhaust: 44° BBDC 10° BTDC Centerlines: Lobe Separation - 112° Intake Centerline - 107°
Information on the Intake Manifold:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...6&autoview=sku

Carb is a 600cfm edelbrock performer 4 barrel (didn't think it made too big of a difference?)

I'm getting new tires, LT headers, and true duals.

No aftermarket TQ, the 700r4 is out of a 87 iroc...

And the interior i think should give me 50HP cause its so bad ***

Oh, and 3.73 Gears, currently the only weight reduction is i have the back seats out and i only weigh 140lbs lol

Tires are 265/50/15 Radial T/A's

Car is Black and Orange if it matters since everyone wants so many details lol

 

umm.. 14 flat. if u launch good.
how much hp did the nifty interior add?
seriously, its hard to know.
not enuff info. given
what heads, cam duration, stall, gears, weight, etc.

 

Fudge

 

Specs on carb, cam, and intake will all make a difference in your hp/tq numbers. Need the specs....

 

Information edited, Now what do you guys think?

 

The make and model of carbs can make a huge difference. A base model 1406 Edelbrock is going to put out VERY different numbers on a dyno than say a 4150 Holley. Dual feed carbs will give you different numbers over single feed. Sounds like you are running the 1405 or 1406 Edelbrock, which is a good carb don't get me wrong, just basic. Specs are helpful on the cam, of course assuming they are correct (as you mentioned you weren't sure). If I had to guess I would say you are in the low to mid 200's for hp/tq once your exhaust is installed, and probably in the 14's on the 1/4 mile once you get traction. But I could be off, I don't have a track or dyno anywhere near me.

You know, tinted windows add 10 hp each!

 

You talking low 200HP/TQ to the wheels right? lol. And low mid or high 14's? cause i have a friend that has a truck running low 15's that i pretty much destroy, so as is i'm pretty sure i'm already in the 14's lol.

Yessss, i'm getting those soon haha, lowering springs should add 2-3 mph on my QM speed right? lol

 

i hope u put down more tha 300 to the wheels.

 

if your anywhere near 230whp you'll be in the high 13's at 97-98mph, just like a typical L98 bolt on car with a converter/stall. Some guys have stock converters and still run high 13's

Motor doesnt seem much different than a L98... just a carbed version

 

Stock LS1 4th gen F-bodies run 13's.

 

Your RWHP is probable 210-220(with headers).

Your 1/4 mile will probable range from mid 14's to low 15's depending on well your car hooks up.

Your 3.73 gears are ideal but do you have a posi?

There's alot of power to be had with a good set of heads. What heads do you have & what's been done to them?

Plan on taking it to the track anytime soon? Videos would be nice to see.


Here's a recient build from another forum and his dyno numbers that I thought he should be in the 240-250hp range.

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/general-discussion/performance/track-dyno/348444-going-dyno.html


Got my appointment for the dyno on Tues., any guesses on what my numbers will be? 350 4 bolt main, bored .40, flat top pistons,Cast 194 double hump heads, w/ 64cc combustion chambers, from a 69 327. Holley Systemax Street Performance system,(Lunati cam, 218/218 @.050", 268/268 advertised duration; .457"/.457" lift 110 lobe separation, Weiand alumnium intake), Holley 670 dual line carb, 1 3/4 primarie headders, 3" exhaust from collectors back. Trans is a NP A833 OD unit, (exact same gear ratio as a 700R4), rear gear is a 3.42 with a powertraxx locker, and a 27" tall tire!

Numbers are in! 244 hp & 320 torque

 

Each!

BTW, yes I was referring to wheel HP. As the guy above me was getting at, your stock heads will be your biggest limiter for power. A good set of aftermarket heads, like the Edelbrock Performers, would make a world of difference. Throw in a bit bigger cam when you put the heads on, nail down your driving skills a bit and you ought to start knocking down the door of 12 second passes. A posi and a good sticky set of tires never hurt either.

 

4thgen LS1's are in a league of there own, i just have a carbed 350 lol, with mods.

I wish i was putting 300 to the wheels, seeing as ls1's are only putting 260-270ish to the wheels on a good day lol. I was thinking 230-235 to the wheels but i'm not a professional so i wouldn't know

I thought stock l98's ran high 14's?

I don't have posi or a TC, i can't decide which to get next, since i don't have enough to get them at the same time. Any advice?

so far i've heard 200 to the wheels up to 300 to the wheels lol.

Not going to the track any time soon, we have a 1/4 stretch marked out on a abandoned highway and have experimented with ways to time it, but its not actuate lol we just use it to race mainly. We are planning a trip to the closest track this late spring, we'll be trailering my car there.

So, what do you guys think would be the best next mod after the headers and exhaust? Torque converter? Posi? Or vortec heads and edelbrock rpm dual plane intake manifold?

thanks

 

I was only throwing the LS1 info out as a reference point.

A good stall converter, 2500 rpm or better, would be a good place to start. Also upgrading to a posi would benifit you a lot too. If you can do the work yourself you could do it for about the same price as the heads. That would give you a solid launching platform. Tires are a must though

 

Haha okay.

Ya, i can do all the work myself. Heads used would run 250-275 shipped. Idk what a used TC would run, and used posi can run like 250-300 easy. I only have about 300 to spend every 2 weeks at the most. next week's check is taken lol, this weeks went to headers. mods are soo addicting lol

 

My local yard sells posi & gears for $50 or whole rear for $100.

I helped my gear guy pull 15 posi/gears & 2 rear ends in just one afternoon. Pushing all that up hill was quite a workout.

It's amazing how many posi/locker rears are in the yard but they cycle cars pretty fast so it's hard to keep up.

A few months ago I was there when they brought in 2 gen 3 TA's with posi disc brake rears but I didn't have the time to get them or a place to put them. They went pretty fast. I did snag a mint dash pad from one ($15) that I sold on Ebay for $280.

 

Thats more like LT1 territory. LS1's are closer to 290-300whp stock, and 330-340 with bolt ons.

And yes, stock L98's should be in the 14's or else something is seriously wrong with the car. my buddies car with exhaust only is doing 14.2's on street tires. I went 13.8's with exhaust/2800 stall on street tires with stock 2.77 gear. Thats roughly 230whp. You can get 230whp to move a 3400lb car in the 13's

 

your kidding about the windows right

 

no he's dead serious!

 

Go get yourself some NOS stickers/seat covers/floor mats, they're worth 25 WHP as a package!

Seriously though, I used to work in a local auto parts store and this was some of the stuff I was able to overhear young kids talking to each other about! The worse part of it was that they were dead serious, I just like throwing them out there every now and then for a good laugh.

But back to the topic...

300 bones every 2 weeks! damn I wish I had that much to throw at my car! If you're paying that much for a used posi you're getting ripped, I just bought a brand new Strange LSD carrier for my 8.5" for $350. In your shoes my next step would be to swap in a posi rear end (after you get new tires), shouldn't pay any more than $100 for a usable one from a junkyard.

DO NOT buy a used stall converter, unless you trust the person you are buying from 100%. They are too easy to damage in ways you won't be able to tell from the outside. A good stall will run you between 200 and 600 bones for your 700R4 depending on design, brand, and stall speed. I personally prefer the B&M Holeshot converters, but they are on the spendy side of the scale.

 

OH okay I was about to say that was but I understand now I remember when I was young and the foolish things I used to say and think

 

If there are LS1's out there only putting 260 to the wheels then it's a ratted out, POS.

 

Hmmm, I was hoping to get posi and a stall converter in one shot, getting them used is the only way i can do that... i might be able to get posi off a 95 T/A, but i'd have to get 28 spline axles as well, which i was planning to do anyway i guess. Anyone know a good place to get a good/cheap TC?