Free mods.... Which to do, Which to leave out
Free mods.... Which to do, Which to leave out
Hey
I have seen that alot of people have cut down the 1/4 mile times by .4 to .8 seconds with the free mods. I am looking to cut some time of my 1/4 mile. Which free mods should I consider doing. Which free mods work the best without screwing somthing up in my car. Which free mods should I say aways from totally.
Thanks
http://camaroz28.cardomain.com/id/56424
I have seen that alot of people have cut down the 1/4 mile times by .4 to .8 seconds with the free mods. I am looking to cut some time of my 1/4 mile. Which free mods should I consider doing. Which free mods work the best without screwing somthing up in my car. Which free mods should I say aways from totally.
Thanks
http://camaroz28.cardomain.com/id/56424
Last edited by Ed Maher; May 10, 2002 at 01:45 PM.
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 407
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From: Stuarts Draft, VA
Car: 88 GTA
Engine: modified L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
Originally posted by Bort62
Don't Gut your MAF.
Don't Gut your MAF.
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Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 3,871
Likes: 24
From: Mass
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: A4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
1. cut air boxes
2. grind down the casting walls in the plenum.
3. advance timing a bit 10 degrees BTDC
4. remove front sway bar( track only!!!!!)
5. better yourself at the track with your car. being consistant helps. your car might run 14.2 all day long. give it Even Smith and he will run 13.8 with it. its all on how you drive
2. grind down the casting walls in the plenum.
3. advance timing a bit 10 degrees BTDC
4. remove front sway bar( track only!!!!!)
5. better yourself at the track with your car. being consistant helps. your car might run 14.2 all day long. give it Even Smith and he will run 13.8 with it. its all on how you drive
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Posts: 1,387
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From: Northern NJ
Car: 89 Formula / 09 G8
Engine: LS1 / LS3
Transmission: M6 / M6
Axle/Gears: 3:42 / 3:27
There is also the TB coolant bypass. It cuts off the coolant from running through the TB.. therefore not heating the air. It should be in the tech articles.
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It helps with weight transfer. Allowing the front end to rise planting more weight on the rear tires. this should help with traction. Also, it drops about 30 to 40 lbs of weight off the front end.
Also, any other weight removed will help et.s . Drop the spare and jack/ extra stereo equipment. If your A/C doesn't work anymore remove it/Smog pump(if you want to get away with this).
You can drop a good amount of weight. Also, for the track if you can get some light "skinny : front rims slash tires it will help.
Also, any other weight removed will help et.s . Drop the spare and jack/ extra stereo equipment. If your A/C doesn't work anymore remove it/Smog pump(if you want to get away with this).
You can drop a good amount of weight. Also, for the track if you can get some light "skinny : front rims slash tires it will help.
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 1,387
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From: Northern NJ
Car: 89 Formula / 09 G8
Engine: LS1 / LS3
Transmission: M6 / M6
Axle/Gears: 3:42 / 3:27
Taking the front sway bar off allows faster weight transfer to the rear wheels, therefore better traction (plus a little weight reduction at the same time) This is mainly used in drag racing only. I don't recomend taking it of when a draily driver.
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,512
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From: Tucson
Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T5
Where the TB meets the plenum, there is a bit of restriction there, you can grind down the restrictions to get better flow, as well as port the plenum, runners, and siamese the base 2 inches in. Make that baby breath 
Make a ram air setup, it's not free but it'll only take about 20 bucks out of your pocket.

Make a ram air setup, it's not free but it'll only take about 20 bucks out of your pocket.
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 532
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From: Tennessee
Car: '89 RS
Engine: 9C1 w/ TPI
Transmission: rebuilt 700R4
Originally posted by BOTTLEDZr28
1. cut air boxes
2. grind down the casting walls in the plenum.
3. advance timing a bit 10 degrees BTDC
4. remove front sway bar( track only!!!!!)
5. better yourself at the track with your car. being consistant helps. your car might run 14.2 all day long. give it Even Smith and he will run 13.8 with it. its all on how you drive
1. cut air boxes
2. grind down the casting walls in the plenum.
3. advance timing a bit 10 degrees BTDC
4. remove front sway bar( track only!!!!!)
5. better yourself at the track with your car. being consistant helps. your car might run 14.2 all day long. give it Even Smith and he will run 13.8 with it. its all on how you drive
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,823
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From: San Antonio, TX
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: L98 (350 TPI)
Transmission: MD8 (700 R4) + 3.42 LS1 Rear
i did the i the air box gut and boy does it help out alot. i picked some power up top(w/K&N's). does that tb bypass really help??? or it helps theorectically? i've been thinking about doing it but i dunno..?
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 532
Likes: 0
From: Tennessee
Car: '89 RS
Engine: 9C1 w/ TPI
Transmission: rebuilt 700R4
Originally posted by mystikkal_69
i did the i the air box gut and boy does it help out alot. i picked some power up top(w/K&N's). does that tb bypass really help??? or it helps theorectically? i've been thinking about doing it but i dunno..?
i did the i the air box gut and boy does it help out alot. i picked some power up top(w/K&N's). does that tb bypass really help??? or it helps theorectically? i've been thinking about doing it but i dunno..?
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