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Fuel pressure regulator

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Old Nov 6, 2002 | 07:35 PM
  #1  
HI92Z28's Avatar
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From: Hawaii
Engine: stock 350 TPI
Transmission: rebuilt stock tranny, b&m shiftkit
Fuel pressure regulator

An adjustable one. Which brand you guys prefer? And what fuel pressure to start of with?
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Old Nov 6, 2002 | 10:05 PM
  #2  
kevinc's Avatar
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Car: 1982 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Holley. No tools needed, nice serrated-edge top, works like a champ. I like 46psi as my starting pressure and go from there based on BLMs. High BLMs on the scantool, dial pressure up. Low BLMs, dial pressure down.

This assumes you're not burning your own chips (yet).
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Old Nov 6, 2002 | 10:20 PM
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They all work about the same, just cosmetic touches. I have had good luck with the hypertech one (billet), BBK, crane cams, accel, Holley, just about everyone makes them. I agree with starting at 46PSI and then massaging it. Always read pressure with the vacuum line removed from the regulator (there is about a 10 PSI difference on the low side with it connected), get a nice, accurate pressure guage and just see what works best for you. I am running about 48-50 PSI with stock motor.
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Old Nov 6, 2002 | 10:51 PM
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Engine: stock 350 TPI
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Thank-you

Where should I get it from? Summit? I don't know of any Vendor to look at performance products for my 92 Camaro.
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Old Nov 6, 2002 | 11:59 PM
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What part of Hawaii are you from? If on Oahu go to Ron's performanve in Mapunapuna, they have the hypertech's there, that is where I bought mine, they either have or can get the others too. About $95.00
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Old Nov 7, 2002 | 12:21 AM
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Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45
Assuming you have a 5.7 TPI then mid 40s FP is a good start. The 5.0s work better with more FP cuz they have smaller injectors.

Danny T
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Old Nov 7, 2002 | 12:27 AM
  #7  
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From: Hawaii
Engine: stock 350 TPI
Transmission: rebuilt stock tranny, b&m shiftkit
Originally posted by Benny
What part of Hawaii are you from? If on Oahu go to Ron's performanve in Mapunapuna, they have the hypertech's there, that is where I bought mine, they either have or can get the others too. About $95.00
I'm in the town area and thanks for the info on Ron's.

DannyT......

Its a 5.7 and you said 40lbs? Others say 46-48lbs? Thats a big jump in fuel pressure? Also got a Hypertech chip in there right now.
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Old Nov 7, 2002 | 12:37 AM
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From: Sacramento, CA
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45
Originally posted by DannyT
Assuming you have a 5.7 TPI then mid 40s FP is a good start. The 5.0s work better with more FP cuz they have smaller injectors.

Danny T
No mid 40s. 44-46 should be good for what you have. I pulled my numbers from dyno runs.

Danny T
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Old Nov 7, 2002 | 01:55 AM
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HI92Z28's Avatar
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From: Hawaii
Engine: stock 350 TPI
Transmission: rebuilt stock tranny, b&m shiftkit
Cool

Thanks! Any mid priced fuel pressure regulators thats good?
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Old Nov 7, 2002 | 05:13 PM
  #10  
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From: Vancouver, WA
Car: 87 IROC-Z28
Engine: 305 TPI-New 355 on the engine stand
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Eaton posi-Soon a 9" Ford!
I have to put in another vote for the holley afpr. It's not cheap, but you get a complete kit to rebuild your fuel regulator along with the billet top and thumb wheel. You also have to do a little grinding on the bottom of the plenum, but it's not in a noticable area, and the bottom of the plenum where you do the grinding is very thick. No chance of breaking through it. I got my afpr from Summit.

Do a search on afpr and see what others have said about the cheaper units they have purchased. This is what made me go with the holley.

Dan
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Old Nov 8, 2002 | 07:56 PM
  #11  
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From: Sacramento, CA
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45
Yeah I got mine from Summit, it was the Crane one I believe. I didn't have to grind anything to install it though.

Danny T
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Old Nov 8, 2002 | 10:43 PM
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I got mine in my garage, and it's adjustable from 30-60 PSIG:

AFPR Conversion.pdf

It may not be for you, however, since the 85¢ price tag may be a little steep. (It was almost a dollar because I used stainless parts.)
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Old Nov 9, 2002 | 03:33 AM
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It may not be for you, however, since the 85¢ price tag may be a little steep. (It was almost a dollar because I used stainless parts.)
I must say Vader, your getting more sarcastic as of late.

I can hardly blame you

I have an Accell AFPR. It works real well sitting on the shelf w/ the rest of my TPI, lol
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Old Nov 9, 2002 | 08:43 AM
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Originally posted by Bort62
I must say Vader, your getting more sarcastic as of late....
I just hate to see anyone spend $100 on something that may not provide any benefit, when the same result can be had for essentially nothing. For that same wad of Jacksons, you can get a decent die grinder and burrs, then when you remove the plenum to change the FPR, port the plenum and get a REAL benefit. Coupled with more intake air flow, the AFPR might be necessary and beneficial.

Heck, for $200 you can have an LT1 intake modified by John and get some real power increases, or get set up with a Pocket Programmer II and some PROMS and make some significant changes. For just a few bucks more you can get a cam kit. See my point? (Well, maybe not if I wear a hat.)

How many people here have AFPRs and after dyno or track testing are running nearly the stock fuel pressure? We don't talk about that quite enough, do we?

Sarcastic? Probably. Realistic? Again, probably...
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Old Nov 9, 2002 | 10:41 AM
  #15  
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From: Vancouver, WA
Car: 87 IROC-Z28
Engine: 305 TPI-New 355 on the engine stand
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Eaton posi-Soon a 9" Ford!
Well I own a machine shop and could easily CNC machine the billet afpr cover out of a chunk of 6061, but the time to program it made buying it the most cost effective for me. And at the time I was having some major problems with my car, and being able to adjust the fuel pressure was another way to dial the car in. I realize the afpr alone doesn't make extra power. It's a tuning tool. Plain and simple. If I do further mods, it's there to allow me to adjust for the mods. I could have bought a cheaper afpr, but from reading the opinions on here about the cheaper afpr's, I bought the best one I could find and don't have to worry about it. Could I have spent the money on something esle? Yes, but I'm still buying the other parts anyway and am going to try to get into programming. I also ported my plenum while it was off and had it powder coated. So for me the $100 was just one thing I didn't have to make or modify to make my car run better. I spend enough time on my machines making junk for my customers. The last thing I want to do is machine out a part I can easily order and concentrate of other things to do on the car.

Vader-I used your plenum porting article and want to thank you for taking the time to write it. I've forwarded it to several people I know and they have made good use of it.

Dan
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Old Nov 9, 2002 | 10:51 AM
  #16  
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From: Ocean, NJ
Car: Check The Sig
this winter i am deff. porting out the plenum... i acutaly bought a second one off ebay to get a little practice on. i am eventualy gunna sell it back on ebay... its gunna be long.. i only have a dremmel... now i need to get some bits for it... and now i might do this afpr thing.... quick question... what is BLM and where can i pick a scanner to find it out? thanks boys
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Old Nov 9, 2002 | 01:50 PM
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thanks boys

You didn't just say that...
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Old Nov 9, 2002 | 03:38 PM
  #18  
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From: Tampa,fl
tpis makes a nice FPR , i got one when i got my Mini Ram
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Old Nov 9, 2002 | 05:44 PM
  #19  
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yea i did....wtf?
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Old Nov 10, 2002 | 12:38 AM
  #20  
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Yup, I made my own also. My stock was set at 39psi. After I did the mod my starting pressure was 44psi. On the dyno going from 44-49 was good for around 5hp and 5lbs tq throughout the entire rpm range. If it wouldn't have been having dyno runs to tune with, I wouldn't have messed with it.
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Old Nov 10, 2002 | 03:14 AM
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yea i did....wtf?

on nm, lol
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