accel super ram question
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Joined: Mar 2003
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From: algonquin il
Car: 1989 gta
Engine: L98 D1SC procharger twin IC
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
accel super ram question
hi... im able to get a super ram setup (intake ,runners plemum) for real cheap. now i have a stock 89 gta 350tpi only thing not stock is 24lb injectors will putting the super ram cause any problems on the stock motor i know i will not see any gains since its stock ...is there anything i can do to get alittle more out of the super ram ..... like advance the timeing or pick up a adjustible fuel pressure reg since i have 24lb injectors lol and if so what would be a good place to set the timeing and fuel pressure at ...ty
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From: Indpls IN US
Car: 91 Z28
Engine: Forged 383
Transmission: Pro-built 700R4
You may need to bump the fuel pressure up a few lbs. but keep the timing stock. You should see a couple tenths knocked of your 1/4et with the super ram on a stock motor. If you lose power it's because you probably have a vacuum leak somewhere. One thing you could do is smooth out the runner to plenum connection with a die-grinder, this is the biggest problem with flow for the super ram. when you do heads and cam, consider porting the hell out of the entire setup (runners and intake).
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 784
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From: Sacramento, CA
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45
You will see gains even with a stock motor, just not nearly as much as if you were to get headers and exhaust also.
You NEED to get an AFPR for sure.
BTW: How much did the SuperRam setup cost you?
You NEED to get an AFPR for sure.
BTW: How much did the SuperRam setup cost you?
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 224
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From: algonquin il
Car: 1989 gta
Engine: L98 D1SC procharger twin IC
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
$700 from my buddy he is taking a hit on it but he owes me lol
what would be a good psi to set afpr to i have 24lb injectors if i remember dont you need to remove the vacume line off the fpr before you adjust it ?????????
what would be a good psi to set afpr to i have 24lb injectors if i remember dont you need to remove the vacume line off the fpr before you adjust it ????????? Senior Member

Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 618
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From: Central, NJ
Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 350 Vortech Supercharged ZZ4 TPI
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.73
People who typically lose power with a SuperRam lose the power because they put the SuperRam on with a 58mm throttle body, or even a 52mm on a stock motor (which is a lot of air for a stock motor).
Reason being: the TB plays the role of letting air into the engine. The intake, plenum and runners use that air. If you put a SuperRam on with a stock TB, the SuperRam plenum, runners and intake will use that stock amount of air more efficiently due to shorter runners, better intake manifold, bigger plenum, etc. If you put on a 58mm TB with the SuperRam, then you are flooding the motor with air and then you lose power. Keep this in mind.
Reason being: the TB plays the role of letting air into the engine. The intake, plenum and runners use that air. If you put a SuperRam on with a stock TB, the SuperRam plenum, runners and intake will use that stock amount of air more efficiently due to shorter runners, better intake manifold, bigger plenum, etc. If you put on a 58mm TB with the SuperRam, then you are flooding the motor with air and then you lose power. Keep this in mind.
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Joined: Apr 2003
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From: houston
Car: 89 formula 350
Engine: 402 CI ls2 with tvs1900
Transmission: t56
considering that the superam is a pita to install and you have the motor tore down, why not pull the front accesories and radiator and drop a cam in while you are at it? i would wait to install until i had a cam or heads or both.
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From: tyler
Car: cobalt ss/sc, 91 z28, 92 z28
Engine: 385 stroker
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: stock 10 bolt 3.73
yeah he is right i agree with him u dont want to have to put on then take off the superram too many times they are a pain in the neck to install so yeah getting a cam and the other parts before u install the superram would be worth ur time unless udont mind many hours at taking it off and on!
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From: tyler
Car: cobalt ss/sc, 91 z28, 92 z28
Engine: 385 stroker
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: stock 10 bolt 3.73
what takes so much time for me is those 16 screws under the plenum to runner there isnt much room to work with i found an easier way to install them i bought some 1/4 allen head screws and it took me only 45 mins to get them all in plus i had to take the valve cover off each side while taking some of the rocker arms off to be able to get to the runner to manifold screws directly underneath the runners. i just finished building my motor and it was easier doing it on the engine stand rather than in the car. first time i ever did the superram it took me like 10 hours or something like that.
Originally posted by daxfas26
what takes so much time for me is those 16 screws under the plenum to runner there isnt much room to work with i found an easier way to install them i bought some 1/4 allen head screws and it took me only 45 mins to get them all in plus i had to take the valve cover off each side while taking some of the rocker arms off to be able to get to the runner to manifold screws directly underneath the runners. i just finished building my motor and it was easier doing it on the engine stand rather than in the car. first time i ever did the superram it took me like 10 hours or something like that.
what takes so much time for me is those 16 screws under the plenum to runner there isnt much room to work with i found an easier way to install them i bought some 1/4 allen head screws and it took me only 45 mins to get them all in plus i had to take the valve cover off each side while taking some of the rocker arms off to be able to get to the runner to manifold screws directly underneath the runners. i just finished building my motor and it was easier doing it on the engine stand rather than in the car. first time i ever did the superram it took me like 10 hours or something like that.
Aggravating . . .
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From: tyler
Car: cobalt ss/sc, 91 z28, 92 z28
Engine: 385 stroker
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: stock 10 bolt 3.73
sure does sometimes i wish i coulda gone another route like maybe the single plane FI intake set up.
What I think
Really a 52 mm to a 58 mm really makes no change at all, let's put the mass on the tables the mass will only allow what it will take, that's it no more, so using a 58 is only making the mass read the most it can no more.
A Super ram is ok with a stock motor as long as you have an exhaust system and afpr, and a chip optimized
What's the most pita about the Super ram is holding those bolts and screw them up the plenum, But I learned a quick way around that with a small wrench to hold the bolt as I get the threads started and screw them up and the bottom spins on the wrench, it was way easier.
A Super ram is ok with a stock motor as long as you have an exhaust system and afpr, and a chip optimized
What's the most pita about the Super ram is holding those bolts and screw them up the plenum, But I learned a quick way around that with a small wrench to hold the bolt as I get the threads started and screw them up and the bottom spins on the wrench, it was way easier.
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From: houston
Car: 89 formula 350
Engine: 402 CI ls2 with tvs1900
Transmission: t56
what was a pita to me was i have a no2 plate and with the supram i had to lenghten some wires and then i did not know about interference with the wiper motor, then because of the no2 plate the elbow is an almost impossible fit. (i have an 89 formula and did this install first in 95'. getting the valve cover back on with the wiring harness is no fun either, (i have afr heads that i got in 95 before they started making center bolt covers and i had to get a taller cover for the 1.6 rockers, that i installed when i did the superram install.i also had bad luck getting the lid to seal with the gasket and ended upp just putting a bead of sealant around and sealing it that way.
i have often thought of next time it comes off haveing someone welding up the runner bolt holes and then tapping them so a bolt could be installed from the top, making the holes in the lid a little bigger and slotted, then running the bolt all the way through and installing a nut with a nylon insert so the bolt will not come lose and go into the engine.
i have often thought of next time it comes off haveing someone welding up the runner bolt holes and then tapping them so a bolt could be installed from the top, making the holes in the lid a little bigger and slotted, then running the bolt all the way through and installing a nut with a nylon insert so the bolt will not come lose and go into the engine.
Originally posted by kevin89formula
i have often thought of next time it comes off haveing someone welding up the runner bolt holes and then tapping them so a bolt could be installed from the top, making the holes in the lid a little bigger and slotted, then running the bolt all the way through and installing a nut with a nylon insert so the bolt will not come lose and go into the engine.
i have often thought of next time it comes off haveing someone welding up the runner bolt holes and then tapping them so a bolt could be installed from the top, making the holes in the lid a little bigger and slotted, then running the bolt all the way through and installing a nut with a nylon insert so the bolt will not come lose and go into the engine.
Originally posted by 85TPI400
This does not have to be that complicated, many people just tap the runners and install bolts from the top into them using loctite and they do not have problems.
This does not have to be that complicated, many people just tap the runners and install bolts from the top into them using loctite and they do not have problems.
But I would be worried about that ONE bolt that came loose and got sucked into a cylinder.
Oh, the mess that would make!
Originally posted by Ragtop89
That would be a lot easier . . . .
But I would be worried about that ONE bolt that came loose and got sucked into a cylinder.
Oh, the mess that would make!
That would be a lot easier . . . .
But I would be worried about that ONE bolt that came loose and got sucked into a cylinder.
Oh, the mess that would make!
It is not the way I am going to assemble mine but just a suggestion. Im sure you have read it on the boards as well that many people go about it this way and havent had any problems.
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