OK. So a few months back the car decides it has some problems and throws a code 33 in my face if I remember correctly. I had already replaced both MAF relays and found out the TPS could also be a culprit. The MAF had the sylicone seal coming off the bottom so I was like what the hell lets get a new one. This was while I was living in Indy goin to school but happened when I was back home so it stayed here and I went back. So now I'm back for good and a buddy just bought a new car and is getting on me to get mine goin. So I finally hooked up the new MAF. It would run and then just die. The fuel pump has been replaced same as the relay. The oil sending unit is also new and before the car finally died the oil pressure switch popped and I havn't replaced it yet. The gas is kinda bad but it runs fine while it does run. I've got a new TPS to put on just got to find the time. And sometimes when it dies it wont start again. What do you guys think put the TPS on and set it right and that should be it or do you think there is other problems? I'm getting really frustrated with it. I am probably just getting lazy and just want it fixed with no hassles and its easier than I am thinkin. My buddy says its just bad gas. Thanks for the help guys. Car is in sig and over on the left.

 

can u come up with some live sensor data? A trouble code can be a symptom of another problem that the computer wont be able to see.

 

I should be able to. The battery ran dead so the codes are cleared and it wont run long enough to set one cause when it dies and it does restart the ses light isnt on

 

Ok I figured I'd get a better list of what has been done in the past and what not.

Fuel Pump Replaced
MAF Replaced
MAF Relay Replaced
Burnoff Relay Replaced
Oil Pressure Sending Unit Replaced
Cap and Rotor Replaced
Altenator Replaced (On 3rd one. 2nd was bad replacement)
Fuel Pump Relay Replaced (May be bad)

Have TPS to put on
Need to replace Oil Pressure Switch

When the car runs it will die soon afterward and when I go to restart I'm not hearing the fuel pump prime. When I do it usually starts. I can rev it just fine when it is running. Before when it would run long enough sometimes putting it in gear it would want to stumble or coming to a stop it would stumble and die. But now putting it in gear when it runs it doesnt have a problem. Same when driving it at first no problem then it wants to die so I have to keep it reved at stop signs. Now it wont stay running long enough for me to drive it a lil bit and if I did get in and just drive I am not sure it would want to start again to come back.

Possible IAC or Fuel Regulator? If I replace that Oil Pressure Switch it will prime the pump bypassing the relay right? I think I read that is how that worked.

 

Ya, the OPSU has a low pressure shutoff safety feature, it might me the cause..

 

but if that oil pressure switch is bad would it do anything? oh by the way i have the oil pressure sending unit unplugged so it does pop the main fuse

 

Wiring is not my thing, but I think you'd at least have to have a jumper so that
your car thinks you'r oil pressure switch is there. If it's blowing fuses, you've
got a problem for sure!

 

Well I have read that that pressure switch tells the computer that there is pressure and will turn the pump on while your sending unit is for the guage. Also if the switch pops it will pop the main harness fuse not letting anything work cause the ecm has not power.

 

You said above that the battery went dead. Well, this may not solve any of your current problems, but I would go to AutoZone (or other parts place) and buy a lifetime warranty battery rated slightly above the cold cranking you should have. You will thank me latter for this tip. You need sure & steady 12V to run the engine the best.

About the 33 error code: if it comes back, try several voltage settings for the TPS; this problem is not the fault of the TPS, but same settings can contribute in setting the 33 code.

The 33 error code is set when all three conditions are true:
1) engine under 2,000 RPM
2) MAF reading over 45 gms/sec
3) less than 25% throotle

The TPS setting at idle affects the #3 condition.

 

OK well I got the charger on it tonight and put in a new oil pressure switch and the fuse didnt pop so thats fixed. We got it to run and it ran for like 5 minutes real good then died. which is what it has been doin. it was a lil rough but its had a half a tank for the entire time its sat so the gas is a lil bad. it will start right up now most of the time sometimes you can hear the pump other times you cant. everyitime it starts now it will run for maybe 30-45 seconds and then die. havnt put the tps in cause i dont have any pins or anything to set it to the proper voltages.

 

Well my frined got back with the fuel psi guage and it had good pressure on prime like 50psi. started the car and it actually ran and stayed round 38psi. we just let it sit and run. reved it a couple times and the psi spiked up so we knew the regulator was still good. then we were talkin and noticed started to hesitate and we quickly put the flash light on the guage to see the pressure down around 20psi then jump back up. kept running for a lil while longer then started to loose fuel pressure and died. so we tried starting it again and it did and my buddy was like hey give me that flash light so he gets under the rear of the car to check the connector from the car to the fuel pump and tapped it and pressure when down then he tapped it again and it went back. so he was like get a new connector. then he was like hold on. gets back under there and was like this isnt connected all the way! i was like what!? he got it connected and no problems yet. took it for a lil drive and fine. i punched him so hard cause when the oil switch popped we didnt know about it at the time it happened and we were on our way back home from school about an hour away so we are checking everything and he checks that connector and apparently didnt get it back in all the way. so thanks guys for all your help. I'm still goin to put the tps in so if you guys know what settings that needs to be at it would be greatly appreciated! Thanks guys!

 

first ensure the the 5v ref and ground are ok, then set it as close to .54v as you can(make absolutely sure that the throttle blades are completly closed, then check WOT should be greater than 4.5v also make sure at this time that your gas pedal opens the throttle to 100%, turn the key off then on wait 2 sec then start the engine.

 

Ok cool thanks man.

 

hey b the j....my TPS is set to .54, got 5v's power, a great ground, and a about 4.7 volt WOT signal. but it STILL throws code 21, high TPS voltage. i even set the TPS to .53, nothing changed. i have a post in the TPI forum about this. just did another search and this post poped up. looks like you could maybe help?

 

Oops o yeah you must disconnect the battery for thirty seconds in order to clear stored codes in the computer. If you have done that, and it still occurs, tell me more about the driving conditions it is happening at.

 

I think I replied under the wrong topic there

 

well if your talking to me, then, yea the code comes back. driveing conditions are, runs pretty good, little rough but i'm assumeing from my exhaust leak. just i hate haveing the ses light in my face. it only turns on when the engine idles down to below about 1200 or when i'm crusing, weather on a backroad or highway, no differance...

 

can you scan it? sounds kinda like the ecu isn't reading the speedo input...

 

If your exhaust leak is upstream of the o2 sensor you will have to fix that before you can do any troubleshooting, from your vehicle description I'll assume your working on a basically stock 305 TPI MAF style, I would still need more ALDL info to try and diagnose that one

 

the exhaust leak is on the pass. side. the flare for the manifold tore becuase the guy who built my exhaust didn't put any flex in the exhaust and with these old 2.8 mounts from the truck engine it kind flexs...alot...

i would get scan data, i tried yesterday, but the scanner doesn't read right. it says rpms at 5600 at idle and TPS voltage is 1.04 volts regardless of position...i'm assumeing because we didn't have the right cardridges for OBD1...

 

we can rule out the TPS. my friend gave me a new one he had laying around, didn't do anything. i couldn't get it set past .51 volts. is that a big deal? its shifted all the way to one side and it only goes to .51...still why would that be high for the computer? i'm thinking more of the MAF sensor not reading right or like i've said before the computers fried from those 2 wires on the TPS beeing switched...

 

if you crossed the wires at the tps then you might have fried the e.c.m they are very sensitve and dont like any kind of voltage spike

 

yea well i got the new ECM. the wires i corrected with the old ECM still in there. i also put a new connecter on because one of the wires was about to fall off from me fooling with the TPS all these, well, now, years. haha.

 

alright well, i won a scanner at a competition i went too for school. i can finally give you guys scanner results...


TPS- .49 volts, thats as high as i could get it with this crappy replacement from NAPA
02 State- Lean
O2- .24-.27 Volts
MAF- about 1900-2000 G/S
MAT- 84 when i started but ran up to 90 degrees by the time i ended, i'll eventually move it to the air ducting so it runs a bit more like the air actually in the intake tract...
Injecter Pulse Width- 1.2-1.4 m/sec
IAC- about 43, goes up when you give it gas, is that normal?
RPMS that the computer sees is about 1000, fluctuated from 975-1175 but i hear no differance...
Coolant Temp.-warmed up till 210 then the fan kicked on and cooled till about 185-190


and also, its in open loop until it hit 208, 209, 210(never went over 210) degrees for the coolant. then it would go into closed loop until about 195(the fan would kick on and cool at 210 remember...) when it would head back for the good ol' open loop. i do get a cheak engine light, didn't notice when, but i saw it right after it went back into open loop and didn't see one while the engine was warming up. same thing again when i let the engine warm back up to 210 for a second time. didn't notice a cheak engine light until after it reverted back to open loop while cooling down to 185-190...


i don't know, to me, it looks like all the sensors cheak out OK. i mean is this thing supposed to run that hot, 210? i thought most all engines like to be around 180...


also, i'm assuming its the code 21 again when the cheak engine light turns on. i didn't cheak to see what it was and nothing is stored. the scanner didn't pick anything up after i shut the truck off and went back to look for codes...


any other information thats needed let me know...i THINK i may have a 160 stat in there. i also have a hypertech chip that i never knew about until i put that "new" computer in. so even if i do have the 160 stat, wouldn't they equel each other out? i do have a 195 stat that i could stick in there though. no big deal. i would just need to pick up a stock ship somewhere...