bought a 350 tpi what rotating asm should i buy. summit offers a pretty good selection but i dont know what i should look at

 

Huh?

Are you saying that you need a rebuild kit or a block or what? I'm not trying to be rude, but I don't understand the words you are crunching together.... I don't think they are sentences.

 

i bought a 350 tpi.i am planing on rebuilding the motor and i am looking for a rotating asmbly. summit offers a pretty good selection but i dont know what one i should consider. i just want peoples input on what they think i should go with.

 

check Competition Products, Ohio Crankshaft, and Doug Herbert. Summit/jeg's prices can easily be beat on internal engine stuff. Better prices on better parts. - have the bore checked for taper/run-out so that you know if it needs bored or not. - I'd say +.030(355ci), some decent rods, hyper. pistons, and put a cam in that thing. You'll be glad you did. - I don't recommend re-doing(resizing, new bolts, etc) factory rods because you can buy better(aftermarket) for less than what you'll have in re-doing stockers.(you have to remember the cost of having them pressed on/off, plu the work done/new bolts)

 

I like Eagle rotating assemblies, like their compititon kits. Forged crank, H beams, forged pistons, bearings.

Check out www.CNC-Motorsports.com they have some pretty good prices on assemblies. If you are going to by one you might as well go with a 383 combo, just my opinion.

 

yeah, screw that hyperuectectic bull****, what do you think this is, a 93 mustang?

lol, j/k, but really, are you the same guy as kilgore trout on stangnet?

 

i have never even heard of stangnet

 

I have to leave a warning on CNC-motorsport, the parts are nice but from experience I can tell you that they have no problems to take your money for parts that they never ship.

I bought a crank with bearings and a bunch of small parts (total cost of $690.69) from them but when the package arrived the bearings were not included (witch I had paid something like $90 for).
After numerous mails asking when the bearings will be shipped or a refund for the cost of the bearings a guy called John Picket (apparently the Sales Manager) tells me that he will investigate this and come back on the matter (this was the 16th of December, my first email asking for what had happened to the bearings was sent in the end of November) but of course he never did, and until this day he have not bothered to respond to any of the remiders I have sent him either so it would be pretty hard to recommend them to anyone for me.

 

As far as what you want, you need to look at what HP level you are looking for also you budget, remember the saying " SPEED COST MONEY, HOW FAST DO YOU WANT TO GO" is in play most of the time. And also Mang, sorry to hear you had a problem, we have purchased 3 cranks from them, and have had a great experiance with them 2 were 3.75s and 1 was a 4.25 and they sent them right away and had the best price by far. If you dont want to do alot of machine work stick with a 3.48 350 crank. If you want to clearance your block I would for sure get a 3.75 stroke. It just depends what you need for your application.

 

If its a mild rebuild, I personally would reuse the crank. We did on my GF's 150K L98 and all it needed was a polish. Crank did not need to be turned. I would also run a set of hyper pistons if you are not planning on any power adder. As for rods, I probebly would do overkill on this as these are usually the most important parts. A good set of H beams or high quality I beams should be good.

 

why run forged pistons if you don't need too? You have to run more piston to wall clearance, which causes pre-mature wear in a street motor. Hypers are plenty good for up to about 550-600hp.
- the crank in my 355 sees 7200 regularly and it's a stocker. Chamfered the oil holes, polished and de-burred. 4340 h-beam rods(got a great deal, had 5140 Wheelers - good rods, especially for $150) and dynagear hypereutectic flat-tops.