I've posted before on my hard start problem, and was given the information to check the IAC valve and passage. I checked the passage (no debris) and even went so far as to change the IAC itself. The problem is still there. The only thing left that I suspect is that there is something wrong with my cold-start valve. I've been to the gm places around here and no-one has one. I've heard about the cold-start valve block off kit and how to complete the job you need a custom burned chip. I don't have the money or time to burn my own chips and am out of options. I need some more help guys. If anyone knows of someone that will burn me a chip (89 tpi auto 5.7 with vats disabled) I'd greatly appreciate the reference. If anyone has a clue as to what could be causing my hard-start problems, I welcome the suggestions. It's just not any fun starting your car with flammable throttle body cleaner when you're out on the town, or even in your garage for that matter. Thanks to anyone for their advice.

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~3.1EyeCandy~
"The Car that started my craze"

'92 Firebird 3.1 (A car sold)

My new baby: '87 flame red GTA 350 w'auto
Carmine interior with pioneer all around
Hooker Catback, Airfoil, K&N
http://3.1EyeCandy.tripod.com

 

you dont need a new prom if you block off the cs valve. and blocking it off wont do anything to solve your problem.

have you checked all your ignition components? coil, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, module, pickup coil. i'd check them out.

what about your fuel components? might have a clogged injector, or filter.

 

Just a thought, but did you check the fuse for the CSI? It is the one at the top labeled "CRNK" in the fuse box. I think it's a 3 amp. Might be a good place to start. If that checks out post back and maybe I will think of something else that I had to straighten out to get mine working. I am about to ditch it soon though, once I get my PROM image just right and I am confident with it.

Also check to see wether it is all plugged in - there is the sensor/switch for it right next to the coolant temp sensor on the front of the lower intake manifold, and the connector to the injector itself right near the middle of the fuel rail on the driver's side. Also check the thing that hangs off the back of the fuel rail that pumps the fuel to the CSI. HTH!

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1987 Camaro IROC-Z28
"Slower than a wal-mart cashier"
Ram-Air Intake/Modified air boxes & aftermarket MAF w/ K&N's
Hypertech Air foil
Hypertech 160* stat/TB coolant bypass
MSD 6A ignition & MSD SS coil
Crane AFPR
Accel 8.8MM 300+ Race wires
R134A A/C retrofit
Prof. built 355 TPI
Mobil 1 synth. fluids
New GM 700R4
Posi disc 9 bolt rear 3.23:1 (G80 & G92)
TCC lockup switch
T-tops/roof console/all power opts.
Engine oil cooler
Custom Flowmaster 3" exhaust with dual chrome tips
All new interior
Macewen White face gauges & hyper blue/white dash bulbs
ADS super chip - stage I
Dunlop SP sport 5000 P245/50 ZR/WR 16's

 

I'll check the fuse today, I'll let you know.

 

I know alot of you guys never read my previous post, so here's the basics...

My car is hard to start. You can turn the key and the car will normally turn over once (makes the exhaust purr for 1/4 a second) and then it dies. It seems like a fuel starvation issue upon startup because after startup it idles and runs great. All plugs have been replaced, distributor cap, and rotor. The IAC passage has been checked for debris and the IAC itself replaced.

Thanks

 

Fuse turns out to be ok. Everything looks connected. Any ideas?

The reason I asked about the cold start valve block off kit and the chip meaning that

a) the engine needs some kind of cold-start additive to start
b) the 89 did not have the cold-start valve, but bled the injectors a little
c) the 89 chip would bleed my injector a little too

Thanks.

 

replace the fuel pump relay, it's a cheap precaution. If you look in the FAQ on this site, a little before half way down it mentions this:

Q: Why is my car getting harder to start day by day?

A: Before you go spending big bucks on a new starter or fuel pump. Check the The fuel pump relay. It could be dying and you might be able to save a large sum of money. On most F-Bodies these relays are located in the extreme rear-driver's side corner of the engine compartment behind the brake booster.


It fixed my problem. The relays do go bad as the contact points get corroded and worn. The relay should be around $10. It would make sense for your problem because as the car gets warmer, the metal in the relay expands, and probably gives a better contact as opposed to when it is cold. For what it's worth I don't think the cold start injector works unless it is really cold.

James

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1985 Z-28, 350 TPI, T-Tops, edelbrock 6085 heads, ZZ4 cam, accel base/runners & 24 lb/hr inj., ported plenum, everything gasket matched, crane AFPR, SLP 1 5/8 headers, single 3" flowmaster catback, 3" Catco cat, modified tranny, 165 ECM & ARAP code, MSD 6AL/wires, edelbrock STB, Spohn SFC, GW "wonderbar"

 

also check the thermo time switch, like ES87iroc said.. this controls the cs valve..

as i stated before, it might be a clogged injector and/or fuel filter.
replace the fuel filter and throw in some heavy duty injector cleaner, it cant hurt.

put a fuel pressure gauge on also, see what kind of pressure you are getting.
good luck

 

An update...

Things replaced...
Distributor Cap
Rotor
Spark Plugs
IAC Valve
IAC passage cleaned
Fuel Pump Relay replaced

And still my hard start condition is there. The car now turns over every time and starts, but dies after 1/4 of a second. I'm confused. I've got a new fuel filter here and plan to replace that too. So far I've spent close to 100 bucks to fix a hard start condition. Any ideas?

Also, does anyone make a fuel pressure gauge/kit for our cars? if not which should I buy?

 

when you turn your keys to the run position, without starting, does you check engine light and other warning light light up?

I blew my ECM fuse one time it had the same symptoms that you have. The ECM fuse is located by the battery in camaros.

James

 

All lights come on like normal. Something I checked just a little bit ago...

The fuel pump runs when the key is turned (the first time) and on subsequent turns of the key, it does not. I don't know if this is normal, seeing as how I've never had a car with a starting problem.

The car really does act strange though. Sometimes I'll go outside and it'll fire up first or second crank. Other times (like this last trip outside) it'll refuse to start no matter how many times you turn the key. This is really starting to bother me. Any new advice?

 

Add to that list of replaced parts a fuel filter.

Any ideas?

 

It is now fixed. Here's whats up.

I replaced the fuell filter yesterday and the car still refused to start. During the procedure, it was suggested to ease the pressure on the fuel lines by using a fuel pressure guage and relieve the lines. My dad used his knife instead to press down the schrader valve, and when it came back up it went sideways a little and got stuck (not noticible). This made it leak just enough to not have enough fuel pressure to start the car. This also gave it the same symptoms as my previous starting problem. This morning we hooked up a guage to the schrader valve and it straightened out (and we cleaned up the leaking gasoline). The car fired right up, it was the fuel filter the whole time. BTW, my fuel pressure when running is 36 psi, and my fuel pressure after shutoff is 39.5. It's nice to start the car without ether. Thanks for all those who contributed.

Jon