I have a '91 Z28 that won't start without spraying ether into it and then it stays running for about 5-10 secs and dies. I replaced the fuel rail assembly and now it won't start. Any help would be appreciated.
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Do you hear the fuel pump running when the the key is first turned to 'key on / engine off' position? Are you getting fuel pressure to the fuel rail? Check with a pressure guage, or briefly depress the schrader valve on the fuel rail, after the key has been turned to 'KO / EO' position.
Bill

 

Yeah I have fuel at the rail, but how much pressure...I don't know. I pulled the plugs and all were carbon fouled. The wires are all of different makes. The problem started when I switched fuel rails because mine had a bad leak. The one I put on had an adjustable reg on it, but I took that off and put the non adj on it. Now I am not new to cars, but I am new to the TPI set up. Could the problem be with the reg diaphram?

 

hmmm. yea could be the regulator diaphram being torn or deteriorated which would make it to go way rich, explaining your fouled plugs. same thing happened to Car Craft Magazines last TPI project car

 

When I depress the valve at the fuel rail I had a lot of air at first, then fuel would just seep out. Anyone know why? Is that a pump or reg issue?

 

at first key on, no crank, there is a two sec run of the fuel pump. normal pressure is 43psi. Should have been big hiss, more then a normal tire would show. gas should have sprayed everywhere, enough build a nice garage fire.

 

Hey thanks for the reply. I can hear the fuel pump running when I turn the key. Should there be pressure at the rail from there? Now just to be sure we're on the same page, I put a new fuel rail on it so would there be air in the line for a while or what?

 

when i rebuilt my 91 z28 .. the fuel lines were empty ...

all i did was turn the key .. let the fuel pump turn on .. then switch it off .. and repeat a couple times ..

its started right up and idled fine ..

so air in the system isnt a problem .. you probably got a broken diaphram .. there should be around 43psi at that shrader valve .. go get a cheap tester (around $20) and make sure ..

 

Thanks for all replies. The fuel rail I was using had something blocking one of the lines so I had no pressure.

 

good that you found out what was wrong ... sometimes things can be hard to figure out ..

i rebuilt the motor in my 91 z28 vert .. and drove it for about 30 miles .. ran perfectly .. but then backed it out the garage one day, and it died .. took me almost a week to figure out the knock sensor was the wrong one and caused the plugs to get fouled, and e3's dont clean very well so i had to go buy some accel shortys (work good with hooker headers)