Hey, figured I would amuse everyone here.

Needed to take off my IAC, but couldn't get the socket to fit on the giant hex that is on the friggen thing. So I came up with the great idea of taking off the throttle body.

So i get all the gaskets and so forth, well, it comes off easily enough, surprisingly, anyhow, i was trying to take off the bottem T-20 torx screws which connect the IAC/coolent housing to the throttle body, when one of the bolts breaks off at the head. Another one got stuck about half way out too. grr.

I ended up somehow getting the IAC off with the socket once it was off, even though it was a crooked fit. Thing is, is the new IAC looked the same, except the pintle length was about half of the one which was in there. The one in there was much longer, but covered with black crap. I cleaned it good, and kept it, just in case.

Can't find a place anywherwe which sells hard tubing, to do the throttle body coolant bypass either. Plus, when i disconnected the intake manifold to lower TB coolent U-bend hose, it broke. So i need to see if i can find some place which sells tubing, hopefully regular tubing will bend in a U with out kinking.

Ill post later to tell you all if it worked or not, and if not, if the old IAC works after being cleaned.

Who ever said working on cars was easy needs to be slapped. I see you vader, i bet you are laughing it up. damn my luck! lol

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1986 IROC Camaro
305 TPI "LB9"
3.23 gears
Doesn't know enough about cars.
AIM: jesusathome

 

OK, broken IAC bolts housing bolts, no problem. Since you're doing the bypass anyway, just skip non-essential housing bolts, i.e. make sure the ones that seal around the IAC passage to the TB are in, the outer ones are trivial.

Hard tube to do the bypass, damn thats caveman. Just run a new heater hose from the manifold outlet to the heater/bypass valve. You might have to reroute the hose (you can't bend regular heater hose at a tight angle), but so what.

Also, i'm not sure about this, but i'd think the TB bypass is technically illegal in CA. The easy way around this would be to modify the IAC housing while you have it off. Just cut off the nipples and grind them flat, then fill in the holes w/ epoxy putty and spray paint the housing. Now it looks stock that way, and it doesn't look like you're missing emiisions hoses. As it is now, if an emmisions station yelled about the bypass you'd be SOL cuz it will most likely not seal right missing a couple screws.


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Ed Maher - Moderator @ The TPI & Carb Boards
92 Z28 Convertible - Quasar blue / Tan top
305 TPI A4 2.73 - 14.8 @ 93.1
Stock except ported plenum and dual cats
-=ICON Motorsports=-

- Definitely prototypes, high powered mutants of some kind. Too weird to live, too cool to die

 

Well, i did buy a peice of heater hose, and was going to run it from the mainfold to this flush T fitting which is where the other end of the coolant hose goes to the throttle body, except i can't figure out how to route it!

I can't bend the hose much, liek you said, and there is no place to run it. I could run it over the belts (no) or i could run it over the alternator (doesn't seem like ti would look good, and the MAF setup stuff might get in the way) and i can't bend the house to go behind the alternator bracket either. Doesn't seem like that would work for me in my opinion. Thanks for the suggestions though! please keep them coming!

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1986 IROC Camaro
305 TPI "LB9"
3.23 gears
Doesn't know enough about cars.
AIM: jesusathome

 

It probably is illegal, but what isnt in Cali? Ive never been bothered about it no matter where I have taken my car.

If you dont go to Autozoo or Pep Boys getting the hose and a splice should not be a problem.

 

I just checked and i don't have a picture of how i have mine routed online. Basically, i have the heater hose coming straight out from the front of the engine, making a soft 180' turn at the radiator to run past the battery/coolant jug. My 92 has a heater bypass valve, which i rerouted to up by the strut tower, i'm not sure it early TPI cars have this as well or not. If not you can simply run the hose straight back to the heater from the battery area.

If this doesn't make sense you're thinking about it too hard, it's a really simple set up. If you're really stumped i could try to get a picture of my set up after work w/ my cheap digi camera, but it might be raining.

 

Hey madmax! Don't go to pepboys you say? That's the only auto parts store i can find. Gotta bum a ride from my roommate, and pepboys is on the ride home from work, so Its pepboys, or nothing for me.

Where did you go to get the tubing?

Ok, sounds like the routing is much longer than i thought it would be. In front of the manifold, I can't turn the hose left or right very much, I would have to go straight through the belts, and that is a recipe for disaster if you ask me. Ill see about getting it hooked up stock again, if i can somehow get some kind of hose which will make a U to replace the one i messed up. If you wouldn't mind, i would love some pictures.

Hey madmax, hate to bother you, but i got my steering knuckle replaced, so my car drives straight again finally. Im going to pickup a new tire once i get my car up and running again. Do you have some kind of computer code reader, or a laptop or something, and would it be cool if i drove over sometime and you could help me check my car to see why im getting 11 to 12.8 MPG?

Thanks! you can e-mail me through my profile if you want.

Thanks for any more info everyone!

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1986 IROC Camaro
305 TPI "LB9"
3.23 gears
Doesn't know enough about cars.
AIM: jesusathome

 

Exactly, you will run it straight through the belts. Recipe for disaster? Not really unless you tend to throw belts all the time. And even if you do, they generally won't hurt a coolant hose (my 85 spent about 9 months where everytime it went over 5k it threw it's load, and though it got smacked a million times, the upper rad hose never showed any trouble.) If you're really worried about a thrown belt cuttin the hose and stranding you, you can carry a few feet of heater hose w/ you, or you can carry a hose 'patch' kit, a metal tube thats OD matches the hose ID so you can clamp the broken parts back together (note, this is the caveman solution to a heater bypass in the first place) I sincerely doubt it would be a problem though.
...ed

 

If you get a longer hose, you can run it directly from the existing outlet on the manifold, across the top of the alternator bracket, and then to the heater core. That way no splice is needed and you have a brand new hose.

I dont have a scan tool, I have been borrowing them myself. I did get a laptop, but at the moment I am trying to decide on a program. I figure within the next month I'll have one.

If you absolutely have to shop at pep boys, dont ask anyone for help, most of them are clueless. Isnt there a Kragen at Alicia and Moulton still? You'd probably be better off going there and its not far.

 

Well, new IAC is now in. Car is set to minimum idle, and idles at 1,500 RPM in park, around 1,100 in drive. Kind of makes is scary to go from reverse to drive.

The IAC i pulled out had a huge pintle, covered with gunk, the new one i bought (and installed) had a shorter pintle, except it looked like the picture of an IAC from both my chiltons and haynes manuel.

Whee! gotta love it.

Should I try to find a IAC with a long pintle like the old one i had installed? Or does anyone have any clues?

Thanks

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1986 IROC Camaro
305 TPI "LB9"
3.23 gears
Doesn't know enough about cars.
AIM: jesusathome

 

Theres only one IAC that will fit, the pintle length depends on what the ecm was doing with it last when you took it out, so thats not a good factor to judge it by.

Sounds like you have a vacuum leak or the timing is way wrong.

 

Never though about that!

Well, i popped the hood to torque down the TB some more, just in case, and when i did, my 1/4" extention broke! Damn my luck!

Still, Lets see, when i disconnected everything, there was the two coolent places, and 2 vaccume hoses going to the TB. a third was underneath, a small "T" fitting. I made sure they were all hooked up. Not sure what the little "T" did, but i do know the top vaccume hose was for the PCV it looked like, and the lower one must have been for the AIR emission system.

Ill have to get another extention, and torque down the TB once again, just to make sure its on tight enough. Thanks for the suggestion madmax!

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1986 IROC Camaro
305 TPI "LB9"
3.23 gears
Doesn't know enough about cars.
AIM: jesusathome

 

Forgot to mention, When i compaired TB gaskets, the old one had a few channels indented inward to follow some of the vaccume paths behind the throttle body.

the new one was totally flat. This couldn't have caused the problem, could it have? i tried to lookup the 86 GM part number for a TB gasket, and it came up blank, so i ordered i think an 88, assuming the manifold to TB gasket was the same.

Think this could be it?

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1986 IROC Camaro
305 TPI "LB9"
3.23 gears
Doesn't know enough about cars.
AIM: jesusathome