I have an 89 Iroc with a 350 TPI that is bone stock besides a pair of K&N filters. Its backed by a TH350 with about a 3500 stall and some gears in the rear not sure what they were in the car when I bought it. Below is what my plans for this winter are:

Full tune up (plugs, wires, cap & rotor, coil, fuel filter)
Shorty headers
Custom OR Y and full exhaust (probably 2.5") with a flowmaster muffler
Weiand Stealth Ram intake pn WND-7540 (from summit)
Holly fuel line kit pn HLY-534-186 (from summit) Will the stock injectors work?
Summitracing twin 52mm TB pn SUM-227705
PCMforless tune

I would like to do a cam package as well. I would to do the biggest cam possible that won’t interfere with the factory heads (I know I won’t get the most out the cam but I plan on doing the heads when I re build the bottom end next winter). I would like something capable of 300hp that is street able and will give the car nice sound. What are you guys suggestions?

Thanks

 

the biggest u can go with out messin with your computer is a 260 cam

 

Not to concered with computer as I am planning on getting a tune form PCMforless.com I'm more interested in the how big of a cam can I go with before I start to run into clearance problems with the factory heads and valves with the pistions and stuff of that nature.

 

no body has any more input on this?

 

Valve lift is going to be your limiting factor if you leave the heads stock.

 

how much valve lift can I have with the stock heads?

 

check out slp or tpis

 

I asked a buddy that works at a shop and this was his recomendation:
220/230 on 112lsa with 520 lift on both

that sound about right to guys?

 

That is not going to work out too well. That would be a nightmare to tune your chip with. I would keep the duration below 220/220 and lift below 460/460. LSA no lower than 112. I would say the largest cam to use would be like the crane 2032 , which is 214/220 with 452/465 lift. And a LSA of 112.

 

With a stealth ram, you may lose all of your low end torque and it may not be fun to drive on the street. Better find out what gears you have too. A stealth ram is more suited to a 3:73 gear. Throttle body wont really make any difference either. Save your money.

 

Your stock heads will never be able to handle a lift over .470. I would't try it. Many members have been happy with the Crane compucam 2032. That is largest I would go. Unless you go all out and Change Heads, then you should change the intake or port it, then, choose a suitable cam after that.

 

It's up to you, but since you already have a TH350 transmission. Why not go with 373's cause then you will have the launch equal to a 700r4. Then you can go with the stealth ram without losing too much low end.

 

Search for Lunati grinds with .460-.470 or so lift range. Before you do anything, you really should take out the springs on the heads, and measure for max lift capability. Its said the retainer will hit the guide boss at .470" lift so your limited to alittle less than that.

Most guys can run LT1 cams without a problem and they are in the .450" range. So keeping down around .450's is a good choice, but this limits what you can do with the duration. Lunati makes a few cams that have decent duration and low lift. Now I also hear you can run beehive springs with those small diameter retainers and gain extra clearance. Seems popular with the vortec head guys.

Another thing you can try is adding .045-.050" of shims under the spring, and running a + .050 offset lock. This raises the entire assembly up .050" so you can run more lift before the retainer hits the guide boss. I hear you can get near .500-.510 with this setup. Thats something to think about, as you could then run a LT4 hotcam perhaps at .492" lift and those cams are cheap at 100 bucks used. Bad *** budget cam.

Something around 216-218 deg is what I'd try. It will require some tuning and likely you'll have to get the software and start tuning yourself to get the most out of it. Mail order is hard to get right sometimes.

218 deg will help push power to 5500 rpm and work alittle better with the 3500 stall and stealth ram. Normally I wouldnt go more than 3000 stall on a setup like that, but 3500 will do ok. The cam will get all that it can from the stock heads. It will be fairly easy to tune once you get the hang of the software since you are MAF. My buddy's car with a heads/cam setup doesnt stray too far from stock tune as far as driveability goes, but WOT is where you need tuned for max power. Mail order wont beable to do that as easily unless you send them air fuel logs vs RPM

You wont really need the throttle body, stock 48mm will feed it.

And with the stealth ram, the torque curve shifts around, you still have good torque in the mid range, but its not going to be as much peak as TPI would show. BUT doesnt mean its gonna be lazy. With 3500 stall and good gear out back you will not know the difference. My car with stealth ram actually ran QUICKER 60 foot times than stock TPI, no other changes but the intake swap.

 

wow... thanks guys thats alot of info to process sounds like i have alot more thinking to do. it wasnt this hard picking a cam for my ls1.

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Throttle body wont really make any difference either. Save your money.

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You wont really need the throttle body, stock 48mm will feed it.

so will the stock tb bolt up to the stealth ram then i am assuming?

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Originally Posted by ninetyone

It's up to you, but since you already have a TH350 transmission. Why not go with 373's cause then you will have the launch equal to a 700r4. Then you can go with the stealth ram without losing too much low end.

The gears and the stall were in the car when i bought it so i dont know for sure exactly what they are. just guess based on what some peoople that have riden in the car have said.

 

stock TB will bolt up fine, just may need to clearance the linkage connection as it may hit the holley fuel rail fittings.

 

ok thanks

 

go buy a gasket and some rtv sealer,then pop the cover off of your rear. the ratio should be stamped on it.